Forums
New posts
Forum list
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New resources
Latest activity
Trending Threads
Resources
Latest reviews
Search resources
FarmTV
Farm Compare
Search
Tokens/Searches
Calendar
Upcoming Events
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
New Resources
New posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Forum list
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Livestock
Livestock & Forage
Beltex tups
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Longlowdog" data-source="post: 6519861" data-attributes="member: 395"><p>From personal experience of Texel Throat (laryngeal chondritis) in Beltex the more extreme types are more prone to it. The old style boogly eyed, dished faced, short neck type had it worst, the newer, longer and slimmer types are much less likely to exhibit it. Since I gave up chasing rosettes and concentrated on commercially viable tups it has not reared its ugly head. </p><p> There were plenty of aged tups at Carlisle and my mate confidently bought a 4 shear for natural service, however, he did not buy one of the super fat ones there on the day.</p><p> My neighbours using my tups are generally selling their lambs in the year they are born in with the exception of the inevitable in any system poor and runty lambs. I'd say weigh your lambs earlier than you think, they are dense wee devils. They will often go fat then put on another growth spurt which means timing is everything. With a high kill out potential there is no need to keep them past 40 kgs to achieve a decent carcass weight. If you creep feed them you can grow huge lambs perfect for the freezer.</p><p> Regarding heat etc, they are prone to become rather portly if kept on good grass so moving them gently is the key. If you want to do everything at 30mph with a dog up their ass they are probably not for you. If you walk your sheep from A to B they are fine. My sheep are all moved by standing at a gate and shouting 'cmon lads/lassies' and walking in front of them to where I want them. </p><p> They do well at tupping time but tend to wander round the ewes in cycles with plenty of rest in between. They are very chilled out sheep probably as they were bred as small flock and garden sheep on the continent as curios and for showing so wildness isn't in their make up. Regardless of condition very few Beltex create a fuss in the ring at the Premier sale. </p><p> Owning pedigree Beltex, scratching a few lugs and having a walk through my fat bottomed girls and watching shearlings grow is rather therapeutic for me. Selling to friends and having them come back for more is just icing on the cake.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Longlowdog, post: 6519861, member: 395"] From personal experience of Texel Throat (laryngeal chondritis) in Beltex the more extreme types are more prone to it. The old style boogly eyed, dished faced, short neck type had it worst, the newer, longer and slimmer types are much less likely to exhibit it. Since I gave up chasing rosettes and concentrated on commercially viable tups it has not reared its ugly head. There were plenty of aged tups at Carlisle and my mate confidently bought a 4 shear for natural service, however, he did not buy one of the super fat ones there on the day. My neighbours using my tups are generally selling their lambs in the year they are born in with the exception of the inevitable in any system poor and runty lambs. I'd say weigh your lambs earlier than you think, they are dense wee devils. They will often go fat then put on another growth spurt which means timing is everything. With a high kill out potential there is no need to keep them past 40 kgs to achieve a decent carcass weight. If you creep feed them you can grow huge lambs perfect for the freezer. Regarding heat etc, they are prone to become rather portly if kept on good grass so moving them gently is the key. If you want to do everything at 30mph with a dog up their ass they are probably not for you. If you walk your sheep from A to B they are fine. My sheep are all moved by standing at a gate and shouting 'cmon lads/lassies' and walking in front of them to where I want them. They do well at tupping time but tend to wander round the ewes in cycles with plenty of rest in between. They are very chilled out sheep probably as they were bred as small flock and garden sheep on the continent as curios and for showing so wildness isn't in their make up. Regardless of condition very few Beltex create a fuss in the ring at the Premier sale. Owning pedigree Beltex, scratching a few lugs and having a walk through my fat bottomed girls and watching shearlings grow is rather therapeutic for me. Selling to friends and having them come back for more is just icing on the cake. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Livestock
Livestock & Forage
Beltex tups
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top