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Building a dwelling house on the farm ...
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<blockquote data-quote="Dave645" data-source="post: 3740216" data-attributes="member: 55822"><p>I very nearly had a SIP roof but the company was purchased and they withdrew from there quote and the company they passed me on to wanted double I got the same result U value and air tight it was more work but less than even the first company. With a traditional roof it still had 2 massive 12meter long gluelam beams in it....only 25% was frames my ridge and a few sections of 2 gables ends the rest my chippy did. Even with the extra labour to insulate it it cost less to do than SIP. </p><p></p><p>The only negative I see to SIP is the very light internal structure which offers very little internal thermal mass, thermal mass gives off stored heat over time I bit like the old storage radiators used to do.</p><p>It can be a great thing if used correctly.</p><p>I say correctly because large thermal mass also take time to heat up so it depends on how your heating your house if your going for high output radiators then low thermal mass mean a quick response time to heat added but also quick (relativly) cooling when the heating goes off.</p><p>Large thermal mass works best with underfloor heating as it works with the system to give off heat over long intervals.</p><p></p><p>For anyone going down underfloor heating on second floors that are on chipboard subfloors consider dry screed and Latts This can help with thermal mass and is also very cheap, but it does force you to insulate the underside of your second floor <img src="http://www.centralunderfloorheating.com/Images/floor-construction-3.png" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>This unlabelled diagram shows what I did insulation under the floor the site floor which were the all weather 22mm water proof chip boards glued and screwed as the house was going up. Then timber batterns then I installed the underfloor pipe runs clipping them down to the site floor semi dry screed over them, then I glued and screwed 10mm ply over the lot, no expensive or special insulations. When I say glue I mean 100% coverage of floor area to remove any possible squeaks.....</p><p>Tip hire an unwinding dolly which you put the big rolls of underfloor heating pipes, also note you may be asked to take runs from part roles on the layout plan......say your floor needs 3 big rolls run 1-3 maybe from roll 1 but so might run 5-6 as they make max use of each roll it's not recommended to join underfloor pipes.......</p><p>You start at the floors inlet manifold which you connect then lay the run and end at the outlet manifold. Only cut the pipe when you have it 100% fixed down after the first run you will find it very simple ideally you need 2 people one to put a few clips in as you go the other to position the pipes.</p><p></p><p>Another thing to watch is the design of the underfloor if your fitting say ground source heat pump, the underfloor systems are rated from 1-5 stars (for the green deal payments)this massively effects your payments from the 7 year green deal you get back, and how well the system works. 5 star is best as normal this means it's got a very high efficiency rating in practice it means more pipework at closer centres. Which is easy to plan for. And cost very little extra to do.</p><p>So if your asked tell them you want a design that will garentee 5 star rating....</p><p>for me the net result is my underfloor heating runs all day, when I have it on at all, the heat pump that heats it runs 1-6 times a day 10-30 min at a time I have no room controllers the heat pump does it all it monitors the water temperature in the underfloor heating system and the external air temprature and adjusts the water temprature needed in my underfloor systems automaticly using a simple heat curve. I find it's often only 24-27c to give a room temp of 22c even in very cold weather I have never seen it over 28c even on the coldest nights.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dave645, post: 3740216, member: 55822"] I very nearly had a SIP roof but the company was purchased and they withdrew from there quote and the company they passed me on to wanted double I got the same result U value and air tight it was more work but less than even the first company. With a traditional roof it still had 2 massive 12meter long gluelam beams in it....only 25% was frames my ridge and a few sections of 2 gables ends the rest my chippy did. Even with the extra labour to insulate it it cost less to do than SIP. The only negative I see to SIP is the very light internal structure which offers very little internal thermal mass, thermal mass gives off stored heat over time I bit like the old storage radiators used to do. It can be a great thing if used correctly. I say correctly because large thermal mass also take time to heat up so it depends on how your heating your house if your going for high output radiators then low thermal mass mean a quick response time to heat added but also quick (relativly) cooling when the heating goes off. Large thermal mass works best with underfloor heating as it works with the system to give off heat over long intervals. For anyone going down underfloor heating on second floors that are on chipboard subfloors consider dry screed and Latts This can help with thermal mass and is also very cheap, but it does force you to insulate the underside of your second floor [IMG]http://www.centralunderfloorheating.com/Images/floor-construction-3.png[/IMG] This unlabelled diagram shows what I did insulation under the floor the site floor which were the all weather 22mm water proof chip boards glued and screwed as the house was going up. Then timber batterns then I installed the underfloor pipe runs clipping them down to the site floor semi dry screed over them, then I glued and screwed 10mm ply over the lot, no expensive or special insulations. When I say glue I mean 100% coverage of floor area to remove any possible squeaks..... Tip hire an unwinding dolly which you put the big rolls of underfloor heating pipes, also note you may be asked to take runs from part roles on the layout plan......say your floor needs 3 big rolls run 1-3 maybe from roll 1 but so might run 5-6 as they make max use of each roll it's not recommended to join underfloor pipes....... You start at the floors inlet manifold which you connect then lay the run and end at the outlet manifold. Only cut the pipe when you have it 100% fixed down after the first run you will find it very simple ideally you need 2 people one to put a few clips in as you go the other to position the pipes. Another thing to watch is the design of the underfloor if your fitting say ground source heat pump, the underfloor systems are rated from 1-5 stars (for the green deal payments)this massively effects your payments from the 7 year green deal you get back, and how well the system works. 5 star is best as normal this means it's got a very high efficiency rating in practice it means more pipework at closer centres. Which is easy to plan for. And cost very little extra to do. So if your asked tell them you want a design that will garentee 5 star rating.... for me the net result is my underfloor heating runs all day, when I have it on at all, the heat pump that heats it runs 1-6 times a day 10-30 min at a time I have no room controllers the heat pump does it all it monitors the water temperature in the underfloor heating system and the external air temprature and adjusts the water temprature needed in my underfloor systems automaticly using a simple heat curve. I find it's often only 24-27c to give a room temp of 22c even in very cold weather I have never seen it over 28c even on the coldest nights. [/QUOTE]
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