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Electric fencer not working
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<blockquote data-quote="sheepdogtrail" data-source="post: 7671557" data-attributes="member: 151839"><p>Earth Rods - They are rusty. They are not the right size. You will need something twice that diameter at least. 1/2" galvanized water pipe works great. The stainless clamp does not create tight enough connection to ground properly. You should get something like this. The galvanized version. Not the copper.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.grainger.com/product/2CNJ3" target="_blank">https://www.grainger.com/product/2CNJ3</a>. They should not be more than a couple of quid.</p><p></p><p>Hook up wires - You are using single insulated lead out wire. In the picture on the red terminal you can see rust/oxidation on the wire. Not good. The 2 wires will create a arc between each other as they live the terminal. To generate a arc you need electricity. That electricity is coming from your fencing unit. So essentially you are reducing the voltage to the fence as a good bit of the fencers output is being vaporized before it even gets to the fence.</p><p></p><p>Double insulated aluminum wire is probably a better fit your local. When installing leave a extra foot or so as you should redo those connections once per year by snipping off the old end and stripping the insulation about 1.5 inches from the new end. You will now have a new shinny connection that will last about a year before it becomes oxidized.</p><p></p><p>The ground wire (green/yellow) connected to the green terminal is unfamiliar to me. It could be ok. Just don't know what the construction is and its rating. I use the same type of double insulated wire that goes to my fence. </p><p></p><p>I think 300 meters is about the limit to get a working fence with double insulated wire. The only downside is cost of the wire. It might be better to move the fencer and the ground field to place near a building with mains power and then use a longer lead out wire to the fence. </p><p></p><p>Did your 6000i come with a remote/fault finder? They do here in the USA. That is a very handy piece of kit to have. It works very well. Alternatively a volt meter would give you the same information except it will not point you in the direction of the fault(s).</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="sheepdogtrail, post: 7671557, member: 151839"] Earth Rods - They are rusty. They are not the right size. You will need something twice that diameter at least. 1/2" galvanized water pipe works great. The stainless clamp does not create tight enough connection to ground properly. You should get something like this. The galvanized version. Not the copper. [URL]https://www.grainger.com/product/2CNJ3[/URL]. They should not be more than a couple of quid. Hook up wires - You are using single insulated lead out wire. In the picture on the red terminal you can see rust/oxidation on the wire. Not good. The 2 wires will create a arc between each other as they live the terminal. To generate a arc you need electricity. That electricity is coming from your fencing unit. So essentially you are reducing the voltage to the fence as a good bit of the fencers output is being vaporized before it even gets to the fence. Double insulated aluminum wire is probably a better fit your local. When installing leave a extra foot or so as you should redo those connections once per year by snipping off the old end and stripping the insulation about 1.5 inches from the new end. You will now have a new shinny connection that will last about a year before it becomes oxidized. The ground wire (green/yellow) connected to the green terminal is unfamiliar to me. It could be ok. Just don't know what the construction is and its rating. I use the same type of double insulated wire that goes to my fence. I think 300 meters is about the limit to get a working fence with double insulated wire. The only downside is cost of the wire. It might be better to move the fencer and the ground field to place near a building with mains power and then use a longer lead out wire to the fence. Did your 6000i come with a remote/fault finder? They do here in the USA. That is a very handy piece of kit to have. It works very well. Alternatively a volt meter would give you the same information except it will not point you in the direction of the fault(s). [/QUOTE]
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Electric fencer not working
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