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Farmhouse window paint
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<blockquote data-quote="suffolksmallholder" data-source="post: 1294290" data-attributes="member: 1498"><p>I had 40 properties to look after in a past life, some listed. I inherited some real horrors and over a period of time got the painting to last four years on the South elevations. I had a team of tradesmen working from April onwards doing the repairs and painting programme + myself when I had time on smaller jobs. I trialled several systems.</p><p>There is no substitute for quality in the long run.</p><p></p><p>You could break the timescale into two sections if it is £'s you are worried about. Do the South and West elevations every four years and the North and East every five/six.</p><p>Do you have a painting clause in your tenancy/lease? I would imagine so and these usually have a timescale. I never liked to go over four years. The main reason was that tenants nearly always skimped on painting resulting in a deteriorating condition over time of the very timbers they were supposed to be preserving!</p><p></p><p>A quality Yacht two pack on good timber will last seven years (Hempel/Blakes, International Paint.) These are worth considering, particularly on large surface areas like doors, decorative gable timbers (must be in good order though) and panelling. (NOT PLYWOOD!)</p><p>A quality water based system is now not far behind the two pack. Dulux being one manufacturer. There are several other well known manufacturers offering these.</p><p>Sikkens paint is good too if you want an oil based type. They have a range to cover (excuse the pun) everything.</p><p>Don't try to keep paint on hardwood window cills, Don't paint over rotten timber.</p><p></p><p>There are now some superb epoxy repair products specifically aimed at window & frame repairs. You have to posess a good tool kit and some carpentry skills to make the best of these but they are pretty bullet proof.</p><p>I use the West System as I'm into wooden boats and have the resin & etc in my work-shop.</p><p></p><p>If your sashes are fitted correctly the majority of the woodwork is in behind the masonry as this is how they were intended to be fitted so little of the frame showed. The worst problem with sash windows is that they are fitted from the inside in a rebate making good repairs difficult because of access. Their design is chunky because of the pockets that hold the counter-weights. They usually rot at the junction between the parting bead at the bottom and this rot goes on into the cill, and in the corners of the sashes themselves. The sashes are easy to repair as they can be taken out quite quickly and this is also an opportunity to replace the sash cord. Parting bead is still readily available. Repairing the pockets & outer lining takes time and that costs £'s !</p><p>SS</p><p>[ATTACH=full]161110[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="suffolksmallholder, post: 1294290, member: 1498"] I had 40 properties to look after in a past life, some listed. I inherited some real horrors and over a period of time got the painting to last four years on the South elevations. I had a team of tradesmen working from April onwards doing the repairs and painting programme + myself when I had time on smaller jobs. I trialled several systems. There is no substitute for quality in the long run. You could break the timescale into two sections if it is £'s you are worried about. Do the South and West elevations every four years and the North and East every five/six. Do you have a painting clause in your tenancy/lease? I would imagine so and these usually have a timescale. I never liked to go over four years. The main reason was that tenants nearly always skimped on painting resulting in a deteriorating condition over time of the very timbers they were supposed to be preserving! A quality Yacht two pack on good timber will last seven years (Hempel/Blakes, International Paint.) These are worth considering, particularly on large surface areas like doors, decorative gable timbers (must be in good order though) and panelling. (NOT PLYWOOD!) A quality water based system is now not far behind the two pack. Dulux being one manufacturer. There are several other well known manufacturers offering these. Sikkens paint is good too if you want an oil based type. They have a range to cover (excuse the pun) everything. Don't try to keep paint on hardwood window cills, Don't paint over rotten timber. There are now some superb epoxy repair products specifically aimed at window & frame repairs. You have to posess a good tool kit and some carpentry skills to make the best of these but they are pretty bullet proof. I use the West System as I'm into wooden boats and have the resin & etc in my work-shop. If your sashes are fitted correctly the majority of the woodwork is in behind the masonry as this is how they were intended to be fitted so little of the frame showed. The worst problem with sash windows is that they are fitted from the inside in a rebate making good repairs difficult because of access. Their design is chunky because of the pockets that hold the counter-weights. They usually rot at the junction between the parting bead at the bottom and this rot goes on into the cill, and in the corners of the sashes themselves. The sashes are easy to repair as they can be taken out quite quickly and this is also an opportunity to replace the sash cord. Parting bead is still readily available. Repairing the pockets & outer lining takes time and that costs £'s ! SS [ATTACH=full]161110[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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