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<blockquote data-quote="Cowabunga" data-source="post: 7860446" data-attributes="member: 718"><p>As for dial settings, my personal preference on all cameras of all brands where applicable, is to have the front alter either shutter speed or aperture, depending on whether S or A mode is used. The rear dial I set to Exposure Value Compensation [to alter the brightness of the image]. The camera always meters to a mid grey, so, counterintuitively, when photographing snow you need to make the picture brighter while the inside of a black upholstered cars needs making darker with a negative compensation. Otherwise the snow and the black seats and dash will be rendered more or less a similar shade of grey.</p><p></p><p>If this is teaching granny to suck eggs, sorry, but I know that there are very many people that did not know this and may even doubt it. Go and try it when you can.</p><p>I tend to use A mode for most of my shooting by the way. I’ve just set my cameras [specifically the E-M1 MkII and Sony A7III] to have a minimum shutter speed of 150th when using autoISO for tomorrow’s anticipated ‘street photography’ where there will be many people moving. If the light is good enough I’ll be increasing that to 250th of a second to totally freeze motion. Depending on the camera used, these setting can be saved to a Custom mode on the main dial [or ‘Myset’ on some older Olympus models] for instant recall when similar circumstances occur again. </p><p></p><p>This cannot be set in that way on my E-M10 MkII, so I have to use S mode and set it to 160th or higher manually…. not a problem. What would be a problem was if I had used another mode and the shutter automatically chose 1/60th and everyone came out blurred in the photos due to their movement.</p><p>The image stabilisation on Olympus is superb, but it won’t be effective for subjects that are moving, only for an unsteady shooter holding the camera at a slow shutter speed.</p><p></p><p>Hope that helps someone.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Cowabunga, post: 7860446, member: 718"] As for dial settings, my personal preference on all cameras of all brands where applicable, is to have the front alter either shutter speed or aperture, depending on whether S or A mode is used. The rear dial I set to Exposure Value Compensation [to alter the brightness of the image]. The camera always meters to a mid grey, so, counterintuitively, when photographing snow you need to make the picture brighter while the inside of a black upholstered cars needs making darker with a negative compensation. Otherwise the snow and the black seats and dash will be rendered more or less a similar shade of grey. If this is teaching granny to suck eggs, sorry, but I know that there are very many people that did not know this and may even doubt it. Go and try it when you can. I tend to use A mode for most of my shooting by the way. I’ve just set my cameras [specifically the E-M1 MkII and Sony A7III] to have a minimum shutter speed of 150th when using autoISO for tomorrow’s anticipated ‘street photography’ where there will be many people moving. If the light is good enough I’ll be increasing that to 250th of a second to totally freeze motion. Depending on the camera used, these setting can be saved to a Custom mode on the main dial [or ‘Myset’ on some older Olympus models] for instant recall when similar circumstances occur again. This cannot be set in that way on my E-M10 MkII, so I have to use S mode and set it to 160th or higher manually…. not a problem. What would be a problem was if I had used another mode and the shutter automatically chose 1/60th and everyone came out blurred in the photos due to their movement. The image stabilisation on Olympus is superb, but it won’t be effective for subjects that are moving, only for an unsteady shooter holding the camera at a slow shutter speed. Hope that helps someone. [/QUOTE]
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