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Arable Farming
Cropping
First time BEET
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<blockquote data-quote="ollie989898" data-source="post: 3329196" data-attributes="member: 54866"><p>I have grown beet in a variety of places which most growers would dread.</p><p></p><p>Get the land ploughed pronto if it isn't already, let the frost do the work.</p><p></p><p>Seed bed needs to be good, but don't drill too early in a late spring.</p><p></p><p>Beware flea beetle once it has emerged, but generally not a problem as seed dressing sorts them.</p><p></p><p>Pre-emergence herbicide needs to be tailored to weed spectrum and your pocket, I won't make it any more complicated for now.</p><p></p><p>Repeated doses of herbicide are needed usually to control BLWs, the sprays are not that great if I am honest, get on your hands and knees and hit them early- get them at cotelydon stage and no later, if they get bigger than a 20 pence coin you can start to have issues which is where Debut comes in and the cost increases, also your chance of hitting the beet increases as well.</p><p></p><p>Graminicides to deal with wild oats etc, just leave a gap between spraying either side of them as they de-wax the beet. I've seen it done.</p><p></p><p>Beet wants boron (I use Spire) on it once there is a half sensible canopy, I normally put it in with the fungicides in July. A variety of fungicides can be used, I personally tend to rely on Opera, which isn't dirt cheap but it has a side effect of keeping the beet greener for longer or at least that is what my imagination tells me. Beware of mildew in beet as it is a real sod in a humid season.</p><p></p><p>Lifting can start in September if they are large enough, October is generally better, lift anywhen you like after that normally.</p><p></p><p>I'm not that up with modern beet nutrition as all my land is covered with manure and I've never used more than 70 units of N in the seed bed.</p><p></p><p>EDIT</p><p></p><p>If you are using the beet as your break crop and you are in blackgrass territory, make maximum use of the pre-em options, don't go cheap. This is your best chance to really give your blackgrass a serious headache.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ollie989898, post: 3329196, member: 54866"] I have grown beet in a variety of places which most growers would dread. Get the land ploughed pronto if it isn't already, let the frost do the work. Seed bed needs to be good, but don't drill too early in a late spring. Beware flea beetle once it has emerged, but generally not a problem as seed dressing sorts them. Pre-emergence herbicide needs to be tailored to weed spectrum and your pocket, I won't make it any more complicated for now. Repeated doses of herbicide are needed usually to control BLWs, the sprays are not that great if I am honest, get on your hands and knees and hit them early- get them at cotelydon stage and no later, if they get bigger than a 20 pence coin you can start to have issues which is where Debut comes in and the cost increases, also your chance of hitting the beet increases as well. Graminicides to deal with wild oats etc, just leave a gap between spraying either side of them as they de-wax the beet. I've seen it done. Beet wants boron (I use Spire) on it once there is a half sensible canopy, I normally put it in with the fungicides in July. A variety of fungicides can be used, I personally tend to rely on Opera, which isn't dirt cheap but it has a side effect of keeping the beet greener for longer or at least that is what my imagination tells me. Beware of mildew in beet as it is a real sod in a humid season. Lifting can start in September if they are large enough, October is generally better, lift anywhen you like after that normally. I'm not that up with modern beet nutrition as all my land is covered with manure and I've never used more than 70 units of N in the seed bed. EDIT If you are using the beet as your break crop and you are in blackgrass territory, make maximum use of the pre-em options, don't go cheap. This is your best chance to really give your blackgrass a serious headache. [/QUOTE]
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First time BEET
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