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Farm Machinery
Classic Machinery
McCormick 434 IH 1968
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<blockquote data-quote="Pennine Ploughing" data-source="post: 7251961" data-attributes="member: 999"><p>Yes self ground to block,</p><p>just make 3 short wires with eyes on the end, to go from 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 3 to 4.</p><p>Or as I did, the original copper wire has a small eye and a big eye, make the big eye into a small eye, put the eyes in the press to make them thinner, turning them to do each end in press on opposite way about, this off sets them so they sit nicely, put the bakerlite insulators off original heater plugs onto new plug, then fit the altered copper wires so they are touch each other, and use the original heater plug nuts,</p><p>This will give the original look with a new style plug,</p><p>Then run a heavy wire to the key. could just use the original that is there now, and just behind the pepper pot there should be 3 wires on to it,, 1 on its own and on other side 2 wires together, this was to aid starting on later tractors, more about that later,</p><p>On the side with the 2 wires, 1 will go to the key, and the other to heater plugs, remove the one on its own, and refit it to the other side, ie, so now all 3 wires are together in one terminal, this will mean the new plugs will heat in the heat position , as before, and still heat in start position as before, 5 to 8 seconds of heat will be enough to start it, once started if its missing on 1 cylinder, just hold in heat position till it clears,</p><p></p><p>More about early and later models of heating,</p><p>B250 and early B275 & B414 with leaver start, had a twist heater control separately from the leaver start, on this type wire the new type heater plugs directly to this twist control on opposite side to power feed, and bypass the resistor, on later key start models and the likes of the 276, 434, and onwards do as described above,</p><p>Like I said in previous post, the old style heater plugs were 1,5 volt, 4 together = 6 volt, and need something to absorb the excess power to stop them burning out, the dash mounted resistor did 2 jobs, 1 to absorb the power and 2 to give the operator a clue to how hot the plugs were, on early leaver start, they had only 1 wire to each side of resistor, and twist handle could be held to heat, and still held to heat when starting,</p><p>On later models this was all done through the key, and a better starting heat to the plugs was achieved by this method, </p><p>The key was turned to heat position, power was fed down the single wire on its own to the resistor and through time the heater resistor would glow, , but once turned to the start position the second wire from the key fed power to the other side of resistor directly to the heater plug wire, the pepper pot would go cold , but power was fed directly to heater plugs, yet to stop them burning out the starter motor now displaced the power and did the job of the pepper pot to ensure the plugs did not get full 12 volts, this meant although it was still heating the plugs, a saving of power not going through the pepper pot to aid starting,</p><p>Both systems are much the same to average man looking at them,</p><p>BUT A WORD OF WARNING, if your doing some work like painting or rewire, make sure the wires from the key are right way around, or the old type plugs are toast</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Pennine Ploughing, post: 7251961, member: 999"] Yes self ground to block, just make 3 short wires with eyes on the end, to go from 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 3 to 4. Or as I did, the original copper wire has a small eye and a big eye, make the big eye into a small eye, put the eyes in the press to make them thinner, turning them to do each end in press on opposite way about, this off sets them so they sit nicely, put the bakerlite insulators off original heater plugs onto new plug, then fit the altered copper wires so they are touch each other, and use the original heater plug nuts, This will give the original look with a new style plug, Then run a heavy wire to the key. could just use the original that is there now, and just behind the pepper pot there should be 3 wires on to it,, 1 on its own and on other side 2 wires together, this was to aid starting on later tractors, more about that later, On the side with the 2 wires, 1 will go to the key, and the other to heater plugs, remove the one on its own, and refit it to the other side, ie, so now all 3 wires are together in one terminal, this will mean the new plugs will heat in the heat position , as before, and still heat in start position as before, 5 to 8 seconds of heat will be enough to start it, once started if its missing on 1 cylinder, just hold in heat position till it clears, More about early and later models of heating, B250 and early B275 & B414 with leaver start, had a twist heater control separately from the leaver start, on this type wire the new type heater plugs directly to this twist control on opposite side to power feed, and bypass the resistor, on later key start models and the likes of the 276, 434, and onwards do as described above, Like I said in previous post, the old style heater plugs were 1,5 volt, 4 together = 6 volt, and need something to absorb the excess power to stop them burning out, the dash mounted resistor did 2 jobs, 1 to absorb the power and 2 to give the operator a clue to how hot the plugs were, on early leaver start, they had only 1 wire to each side of resistor, and twist handle could be held to heat, and still held to heat when starting, On later models this was all done through the key, and a better starting heat to the plugs was achieved by this method, The key was turned to heat position, power was fed down the single wire on its own to the resistor and through time the heater resistor would glow, , but once turned to the start position the second wire from the key fed power to the other side of resistor directly to the heater plug wire, the pepper pot would go cold , but power was fed directly to heater plugs, yet to stop them burning out the starter motor now displaced the power and did the job of the pepper pot to ensure the plugs did not get full 12 volts, this meant although it was still heating the plugs, a saving of power not going through the pepper pot to aid starting, Both systems are much the same to average man looking at them, BUT A WORD OF WARNING, if your doing some work like painting or rewire, make sure the wires from the key are right way around, or the old type plugs are toast [/QUOTE]
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McCormick 434 IH 1968
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