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Simba Freeflow fan conversion
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<blockquote data-quote="Andrew" data-source="post: 6768663" data-attributes="member: 93"><p>Take everything off the drill apart from the fan motor.</p><p></p><p>There will be 3 pipes into the motor.</p><p>1) Inlet to the motor. Plug this into spool pressure.</p><p>2) Outlet from the motor. Plug this into spool return. These motors can be plumbed in series and can easily cope with 200bar back pressure, let alone the 20bar you get on a spool.</p><p>3) The next piece of plumbing is a one way valve connecting the pressure and return lines. This must be fitted so oil can go from the return line to the pressure line, NOT the other direction. This means oil will just loop through the motor when you stop the spool letting it run down, preventing damage. It also prevents the motor spinning backwards.</p><p>4) The third pipe from the motor is the case drain, some motors can only cope with 10bar back pressure and WILL BLOW UP if this is plugged into a spool, so THIS pipe needs to go into free flow return.</p><p></p><p>Problems: oil will get warmer as it's going back through the spool. If the case drain line becomes disconnected the motor will go bang.</p><p></p><p>THE (preferred) ALTERNATIVE</p><p></p><p>1) As before.</p><p>2) Plug into free flow return.</p><p>3) One way valve as before.</p><p>4) T the case drain line into the return line. Fit a flow restrictor in the case drain line of about 0.75mm size. A blocked male male fitting is best for this, then just drill the hole. NOTE - check with a proper specialist on the hole size.</p><p></p><p>If you follow this method, the oil will stay cooler as it's all going back through a free flow return. It's a bit more 'idiot proof' when plugging in.</p><p>However, from experience, on REALLY cold days (-15 in central Europe) it can blow the motor up. This is because oil is lazy. When all the oil is cold and thick, rather than start the oil in the return line moving, the oil goes back down the case drain line and makes the motor go bang. This is why the small restrictor is there, to iron out any pressure spikes. So it is critical to get the right sized hole. </p><p>It is unlikely to get that cold in Wiltshire, but every time on startup there will still be a small pressure spike that will cause the motor to fail eventually.</p><p></p><p>When you want to start the fan just pressurise the spool. It's good practise to slowly pull the lever to get the fan up to speed, to minimise the pressure spike I mentioned earlier. If you can't do this you can get soft start valves you can fit - there may even be one in your PTO system,</p><p></p><p>To stop put it in neutral. The one way valve fitted between the pressure and return will look after the motor. Put it in float if you want but there will be no flow.</p><p>Just vary the flow out of the spool to regulate motor speed.</p><p></p><p>When you first use the fan in the spools, I suggest slowly increasing the flow and monitoring the fan speed. I think it is a Crary fan on the Simba, most of these are rated to 6000rpm. If your tractor will make it spin more than about 5,500 rpm fit a flow restrictor hidden on the machine somewhere. Then if you forget to turn the flow down before using it, you won't blow the motor.</p><p></p><p>It's not as easy as you think. The motors are over £1000 so one mistake and it's expensive.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Andrew, post: 6768663, member: 93"] Take everything off the drill apart from the fan motor. There will be 3 pipes into the motor. 1) Inlet to the motor. Plug this into spool pressure. 2) Outlet from the motor. Plug this into spool return. These motors can be plumbed in series and can easily cope with 200bar back pressure, let alone the 20bar you get on a spool. 3) The next piece of plumbing is a one way valve connecting the pressure and return lines. This must be fitted so oil can go from the return line to the pressure line, NOT the other direction. This means oil will just loop through the motor when you stop the spool letting it run down, preventing damage. It also prevents the motor spinning backwards. 4) The third pipe from the motor is the case drain, some motors can only cope with 10bar back pressure and WILL BLOW UP if this is plugged into a spool, so THIS pipe needs to go into free flow return. Problems: oil will get warmer as it's going back through the spool. If the case drain line becomes disconnected the motor will go bang. THE (preferred) ALTERNATIVE 1) As before. 2) Plug into free flow return. 3) One way valve as before. 4) T the case drain line into the return line. Fit a flow restrictor in the case drain line of about 0.75mm size. A blocked male male fitting is best for this, then just drill the hole. NOTE - check with a proper specialist on the hole size. If you follow this method, the oil will stay cooler as it's all going back through a free flow return. It's a bit more 'idiot proof' when plugging in. However, from experience, on REALLY cold days (-15 in central Europe) it can blow the motor up. This is because oil is lazy. When all the oil is cold and thick, rather than start the oil in the return line moving, the oil goes back down the case drain line and makes the motor go bang. This is why the small restrictor is there, to iron out any pressure spikes. So it is critical to get the right sized hole. It is unlikely to get that cold in Wiltshire, but every time on startup there will still be a small pressure spike that will cause the motor to fail eventually. When you want to start the fan just pressurise the spool. It's good practise to slowly pull the lever to get the fan up to speed, to minimise the pressure spike I mentioned earlier. If you can't do this you can get soft start valves you can fit - there may even be one in your PTO system, To stop put it in neutral. The one way valve fitted between the pressure and return will look after the motor. Put it in float if you want but there will be no flow. Just vary the flow out of the spool to regulate motor speed. When you first use the fan in the spools, I suggest slowly increasing the flow and monitoring the fan speed. I think it is a Crary fan on the Simba, most of these are rated to 6000rpm. If your tractor will make it spin more than about 5,500 rpm fit a flow restrictor hidden on the machine somewhere. Then if you forget to turn the flow down before using it, you won't blow the motor. It's not as easy as you think. The motors are over £1000 so one mistake and it's expensive. [/QUOTE]
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