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Regenerative Agriculture and Direct Drilling
Regen Ag General Discussion
To wet
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<blockquote data-quote="DrWazzock" data-source="post: 5023056" data-attributes="member: 2119"><p>I agree with you. The only problem is that the water has to go somewhere. So if it isn't soaking in because the soil is hard/consolidated/naturally structured/compacted then it tends to go horizontally and run off the field, so I have found.</p><p></p><p>Severely cultivated soil where no larger lumps are left intact does soak up a huge amount of water and becomes almost a suspension like a blancmange. It won't carry traffic, and if it does it compacts badly and tends to slump into an anaerobic mess on further heavy rain. It takes forever to dry. I agree.</p><p></p><p>So what to do in the event of a compacted field such as after beet and sheep? I don't want water to run off the field or run into low areas and pond. If I over cultivate it will turn into blancmange if it rains again. What I have done is used an old paraplow to gently break the compaction without pulverising it and losing all the structure and weight bearing capacity. This hopefully allows water to infiltrate, reduces ponding and speeds drying whilst alleviating the compaction and breaking the plough pan. Well that's the theory.</p><p></p><p>Maybe I should have just left it and direct drilled into it, but the top 3" were like a hard crust and there were too many beet cart wheels and such like.</p><p></p><p>I am now tempted to cultivate very shallowly before drilling to kill the big flush of weed seedlings that have germinated following the glyphosate a fortnight ago. This would also level and firm the surface to allow good seed to soil contact, but I don't want to stir deeply. High speed power Harrow? Stubble cultivator?</p><p></p><p>Ramble over.</p><p></p><p>I could have just ploughed it but it would dry it out too much in the sand and bring up some terrible clay in the heavy land.</p><p></p><p>Wish I had some free draining wold land.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DrWazzock, post: 5023056, member: 2119"] I agree with you. The only problem is that the water has to go somewhere. So if it isn't soaking in because the soil is hard/consolidated/naturally structured/compacted then it tends to go horizontally and run off the field, so I have found. Severely cultivated soil where no larger lumps are left intact does soak up a huge amount of water and becomes almost a suspension like a blancmange. It won't carry traffic, and if it does it compacts badly and tends to slump into an anaerobic mess on further heavy rain. It takes forever to dry. I agree. So what to do in the event of a compacted field such as after beet and sheep? I don't want water to run off the field or run into low areas and pond. If I over cultivate it will turn into blancmange if it rains again. What I have done is used an old paraplow to gently break the compaction without pulverising it and losing all the structure and weight bearing capacity. This hopefully allows water to infiltrate, reduces ponding and speeds drying whilst alleviating the compaction and breaking the plough pan. Well that's the theory. Maybe I should have just left it and direct drilled into it, but the top 3" were like a hard crust and there were too many beet cart wheels and such like. I am now tempted to cultivate very shallowly before drilling to kill the big flush of weed seedlings that have germinated following the glyphosate a fortnight ago. This would also level and firm the surface to allow good seed to soil contact, but I don't want to stir deeply. High speed power Harrow? Stubble cultivator? Ramble over. I could have just ploughed it but it would dry it out too much in the sand and bring up some terrible clay in the heavy land. Wish I had some free draining wold land. [/QUOTE]
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Regen Ag General Discussion
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