that would be down maybe to the brand of rod but more likely to your set having no hot start featureWhat are these welders like at making the first strike/weld?
I have had a TecArc for years but it’s a real nightmare trying to get the first run without the rod sticking to the steel and you have to wiggle the clamp like hell to get it unstuck.
Was at a house last year and think it was a Jefferson inverter and you stick a rod in the clamp and you can start running a bead straight away with no sticking. Go home to mine and it would drive you nuts.
or maybe the open circuit voltage is lower on the older non inverter machines?that would be down maybe to the brand of rod but more likely to your set having no hot start feature
How is it wired in the workshop? In mine, I have a dedicated 32A socket near the welding bench and a 32A plug on the Jassic. I made up an extension with a 13A plug and a 32A inline socket to use the welder elsewhere with the amps turned down a bit.Have a rohr 220 stick welder had it for a while now. Works well gets dragged out for on site Gate and feeder repairs sub £100 so not the end of the world if it lands in the s***e. Don't have 4mm rods but burns 3.2 fine on a 13A plug. The only downside is that the plug is moulded on and don't think the 13A power supply is up to 220A.
Yes good little unit ,drove over ours with the little ifor williams a year or 2 ago , and its still going strongthis is what I have (no idea if it's the cheapest web site, I just found a site to add the model). It runs a 4mm (8 gauge) rod on a 13 amp supply. Very happy with it and impressed with it's capabilities.
Parweld XTS 163 MMA Inverter Welder - XTS163Default Title
160A MMA Inverter 230V Multi Mode The XTS 163 MMA uses latest technology to provide a compact and reliable machine, ideal for everyday applications. Electrodes up to 3.2mm can be used with ease. TIG Welding By fitting the optional TIG torch and coupling to a suitable gas supply the XTS 163 can...www.toolweld.co.uk
Just out of interest,what do you consider to be the good rods.Reading through the posts, (1) there is no substitute for a oil cooled welder, (2) Rods, why use crap rods, goods rods save time and don't then get the issues from using a small welder in the first place, I don't like to hear well its good enough, I take a pride in my work if its a part for a Rolls Royce or a bog handle its welded and finished the same, I use a pre war oil cooled Cytringan weighs about 4cwt so not one to move, and for taking about an old Try-ang nothing to go wrong. I can say for odd jobs today a inverter is the way to go, I have used the cheapest? Work Zone Titanium Inverter 140 weighs nothing, pick it up with one little finger and handles a 3.2mm rod, there is no amperage at the rod so get the smallest glimmer and amperage is there, so no rod sticking but just get used to it. Things today Don't Last its often the circuit boards and often obsolete after a few years, Just repaired a mig, solenoid and wire feed motor supply failed, its poorly? well cheeper made than thirty year old predecessors board is identical but made without the chips, you could say with nuts and bolts instead of sticky tape, Welding helmets I would recommend, don't buy cheep ones, check the helmet is strong with good well made head straps, some fail to hold.
Thought he used to be a member on hereX2 for WSD.
Tecarc here and you go no sticking no problemsWhat are these welders like at making the first strike/weld?
I have had a TecArc for years but it’s a real nightmare trying to get the first run without the rod sticking to the steel and you have to wiggle the clamp like hell to get it unstuck.
Was at a house last year and think it was a Jefferson inverter and you stick a rod in the clamp and you can start running a bead straight away with no sticking. Go home to mine and it would drive you nuts.