Folding 4 meter combi recommendations

Spud

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
YO62
I would beg to differ but am abit of an anorak when I comes to front tanks I know. The key thing with a front tank is that you and your operator need to be fully on board with making it work and then getting it in plenty of time before you use it to get it on and ideally off the tractor again because there’s slot more thinking and manufacturing of brackets and bits and pieces and setting tyre pressures and ballasting etc etc than just a drawbar pin and a bundle of pipes and cables. They are a lot more involved but that doesn’t make them difficult and unworkable in someways the opposite they give you opportunities that other configurations don’t.
Thats where it falls down for us, far too tying to a tractor and far too much faff to get going. Ok if (like our taty planting rig) it goes on at the start of the season and comes off at the end a few weeks later, but our cereal drill starts in August and finishes in April usually, with a lot of jobs for that tractor in between.
 

Drillman

Member
Mixed Farmer
Thats where it falls down for us, far too tying to a tractor and far too much faff to get going. Ok if (like our taty planting rig) it goes on at the start of the season and comes off at the end a few weeks later, but our cereal drill starts in August and finishes in April usually, with a lot of jobs for that tractor in between.
Just buy a dedicated drill tractor😂😂
 

Alistair Nelson

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
E Yorks
Thats where it falls down for us, far too tying to a tractor and far too much faff to get going. Ok if (like our taty planting rig) it goes on at the start of the season and comes off at the end a few weeks later, but our cereal drill starts in August and finishes in April usually, with a lot of jobs for that tractor in between.
That’s why I said you need time when it’s new getting rigged up after that it’s relatively easy getting on and off once your set up as you can leave the rigid transfer pipes on 12 months of the year after that it’s just the same as a front press and powerharrow drill.
 

Spud

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
YO62
That’s why I said you need time when it’s new getting rigged up after that it’s relatively easy getting on and off once your set up as you can leave the rigid transfer pipes on 12 months of the year after that it’s just the same as a front press and powerharrow drill.
Thats a complete and utter pita for lots of other jobs though, and a good bit more to connect than just a 3pl for a front press!!
 

Fraserb

Member
Location
Scottish Borders
Thats a complete and utter pita for lots of other jobs though, and a good bit more to connect than just a 3pl for a front press!!

One of the front tank setups round here has quick release fittings each end of the transfer pipe so only 2 extra fittings front and back when dropping off for a short time as he leaves the pipes on, if it's coming off for a day or 2 the pipes lift off on some sort of quick release bracket as well so only an extra couple of minutes.
 

Chae1

Member
Location
Aberdeenshire
Thats where it falls down for us, far too tying to a tractor and far too much faff to get going. Ok if (like our taty planting rig) it goes on at the start of the season and comes off at the end a few weeks later, but our cereal drill starts in August and finishes in April usually, with a lot of jobs for that tractor in between.
I agree.

Generally once our drill goes on, it stays on. It's a PIA to take on and off.

The front box isn't difficult to remove. Just 3 hydraulic pipes. Seed/fert pipe and 2 plugs.

It's all the bloody wires and crap at the back that annoys me.

I know contractors that would take them on/off all the time. But I'm too fat and lazy.

When we put ours on this year, someone mixed up seed and fert pipes when hitching it up at back! So 25 acres drilled with no tramlines.

Looks alright.
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
One of the front tank setups round here has quick release fittings each end of the transfer pipe so only 2 extra fittings front and back when dropping off for a short time as he leaves the pipes on, if it's coming off for a day or 2 the pipes lift off on some sort of quick release bracket as well so only an extra couple of minutes.
If set up properly it takes no longer to drop off a front hopper than a any other front implement.
I have all the connections on a bracket at the front and it’s iso so no boxes in the cab.
2C113A97-C0AF-46AA-BC3E-C682FC8725AE.jpeg


And just loosen one bolt to remove transfer pipe if it’s staying off for more than a day.
779A7DE6-84B9-4A6D-B054-485F021D5D59.jpeg
 

Spud

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
YO62
If set up properly it takes no longer to drop off a front hopper than a any other front implement.
I have all the connections on a bracket at the front and it’s iso so no boxes in the cab.
View attachment 1068842

And just loosen one bolt to remove transfer pipe if it’s staying off for more than a day.
View attachment 1068841
Very smart, but I don't see the advantage. No full width press. Time issue seed getting to rear. Hassle hitching and unhitching. Reliant on one tractor. Restricts visibility. Needs to be well heavy to balance rear when empty, which makes it way too heavy full.

They make sense for grain & fert but for that job I'd prefer liquid, even though we blow dry fert for spuds.

Maybe I'm just an odd bugger!
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
Very smart, but I don't see the advantage. No full width press. Time issue seed getting to rear. Hassle hitching and unhitching. Reliant on one tractor. Restricts visibility. Needs to be well heavy to balance rear when empty, which makes it way too heavy full.

They make sense for grain & fert but for that job I'd prefer liquid, even though we blow dry fert for spuds.

Maybe I'm just an odd bugger!

Don’t have any issues with weight, find it well balanced empty or full. Run it on press wheels when in work so no weight on the front axle going down the field. Admittedly I’m not pressing full width but not far off with the tractor on 710’s @ 80”.
Hopper starts metering as it enters work so seed is at the coulters by the time they enter work then hopper switch off on exit at the end of a run. Also there’s a pre-start function so it will start metering when stationary for in corners or if you have to stop mid run so no missed bits.
Personally I find it a much more balanced setup than a rear hopper and the losse of visibility at the front is made up for by the gains in visibility at the rear. Been able to spot blockages early has been a big bonus!
 

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