AgOpenGPS RTK Autosteer, How to Guide for £1000

Genesis

Member
Location
Ireland
Gathering the bits together for my own setup. I have the Panasonic CF D1, the wheel angle sensors and hopefully the PCB, antenna and wiring harness for @Andy26 shortly. I intend to steer the tractor with a Baraki hydraulic valve at a later date, but for now it will be the wheel motor. Firstly, I am in the south of Ireland and was wondering where is the best place to buy the motor?
Is 24V best?
What rpm motor?

I will probably get potatoefarmers gears printed out, but I'm just wondering, has anyone considered using a small toothed/timing belt and pulleys? Probably a more expensive option, but it would probably last longer than plastic gears if set up properly, and run quite. Just a thought. Thanks!!!!
 

Oldmacdonald

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Scotland
Gathering the bits together for my own setup. I have the Panasonic CF D1, the wheel angle sensors and hopefully the PCB, antenna and wiring harness for @Andy26 shortly. I intend to steer the tractor with a Baraki hydraulic valve at a later date, but for now it will be the wheel motor. Firstly, I am in the south of Ireland and was wondering where is the best place to buy the motor?
Is 24V best?
What rpm motor?

I will probably get potatoefarmers gears printed out, but I'm just wondering, has anyone considered using a small toothed/timing belt and pulleys? Probably a more expensive option, but it would probably last longer than plastic gears if set up properly, and run quite. Just a thought. Thanks!!!!
Valmet 405 (dual antenna, AIO micro V4.1, belt-driven steering wheel)
 

BuskhillFarm

Member
Arable Farmer
When alls said and done I think the bariki valve takes some beating for a tidy quiet instal. Or else stick with the tried and rested cogs and phidgets motor if you want a more cost effective and simpler set up. I’ve both and the hydraulic valve was a bit faffier to set up but it is a better system and will convert my other tractor to the same if I can justify and use it enough in it in future
 

Genesis

Member
Location
Ireland
Thanks for the replies. The Baraki valve is what I had intended to install initially, but I have not had a reply from Marek in about 10 days, so I am unsure when/If I will be able to order from him. Thanks.
 

BuskhillFarm

Member
Arable Farmer
Thanks for the replies. The Baraki valve is what I had intended to install initially, but I have not had a reply from Marek in about 10 days, so I am unsure when/If I will be able to order from him. Thanks.
He’s very bad at replying. I gave up and it came in 2-3 months after ordering. He now has a website for ordering. Can’t remember what it’s called though
 

Genesis

Member
Location
Ireland
He’s very bad at replying. I gave up and it came in 2-3 months after ordering. He now has a website for ordering. Can’t remember what it’s called though
I gather from the Agopen forum that replying to queries and delivery dates etc can be a bit all over the place. He must be very busy. I was just looking for details to pay him and I'm still waiting, which would make me worry about how long I would be waiting on the actual valve!!!!
Is the Hydraforce valve I've seen mentioned an equally good alternative?
Or is the Baraki valve superior?
 

Andy26

Moderator
Arable Farmer
Location
Northants
I gather from the Agopen forum that replying to queries and delivery dates etc can be a bit all over the place. He must be very busy. I was just looking for details to pay him and I'm still waiting, which would make me worry about how long I would be waiting on the actual valve!!!!
Is the Hydraforce valve I've seen mentioned an equally good alternative?
Or is the Baraki valve superior?
We are waiting on a Baraki valve, paid for in early March, been promised it numerous times most recently to be delivered early last week.

Baraki valve is one block which has a lock solenoid and a pressure sensor incorporated. So there is a safety incorporated by the lock solenoid needing 12v to hold open, in theory fails safe.
The pressure sensor, detects if you turn the steering wheel manually and disconnects the auto steer.

The hydraforce is typically two different valves, although they could be mated. One does the steering the hydraforce and a 6/2 valve to isolate and swap between manual steering and autosteer.
 

Genesis

Member
Location
Ireland
Thanks Andy. I'll definitely be setting up the wheel motor so, I don't think that I'd be able to contain myself for 3+ months waiting to autosteer!!!!!! As I mentioned to you, I'd also like to eventually get the combine to autosteer, so the motor would be installed in that once I get the hydraulic steering valve in the tractor. I have been looking at the tractors steering column this morning for some inspiration!!!!!!
 

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Thanks Andy. I'll definitely be setting up the wheel motor so, I don't think that I'd be able to contain myself for 3+ months waiting to autosteer!!!!!! As I mentioned to you, I'd also like to eventually get the combine to autosteer, so the motor would be installed in that once I get the hydraulic steering valve in the tractor. I have been looking at the tractors steering column this morning for some inspiration!!!!!!
ubolts onto the sleeve under the wheel,3mm bracketry for the motor
 

del_boy

Member
Location
Herefordshire
Thanks Andy. I'll definitely be setting up the wheel motor so, I don't think that I'd be able to contain myself for 3+ months waiting to autosteer!!!!!! As I mentioned to you, I'd also like to eventually get the combine to autosteer, so the motor would be installed in that once I get the hydraulic steering valve in the tractor. I have been looking at the tractors steering column this morning for some inspiration!!!!!!
This is what i done on a new holland, could work with yours aswell. A clamp each side so really easy to line up as you can slide it up and down on the steering column and also the motor can be slide up and down. Couldn't get the proper motor holder bracket to sit nicely anywhere
 

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Genesis

Member
Location
Ireland
This is what i done on a new holland, could work with yours aswell. A clamp each side so really easy to line up as you can slide it up and down on the steering column and also the motor can be slide up and down. Couldn't get the proper motor holder bracket to sit nicely anywhere
Thanks very much for that, looks like a similar steering shaft to ours, even though they are quite a few years apart!!!!
 

Genesis

Member
Location
Ireland
It seems to work ok the bit ive done so far. I then used the telescopic adjustment to lift the steering wheel away when on the road or when its not being used
.
That's what I was thinking, but wondered would it be possible with a herringbone type gear? As in, to slide it in and out to engage and disengage the teeth? I thought that I might have to use a spur gear.
 

BuskhillFarm

Member
Arable Farmer
We WAS qusetion. I’ve 5v coming out of the red power wire to was. But nothing on other too pins, is this likely a duff was? Or a poor bit of wiring at board?
 

Andy26

Moderator
Arable Farmer
Location
Northants
We WAS qusetion. I’ve 5v coming out of the red power wire to was. But nothing on other too pins, is this likely a duff was? Or a poor bit of wiring at board?
Pin 1 should be 5V+ from PCB, Pin 4 is ground and pin 2 is signal which will be a varying voltage between 0.5 and 4.5V.

Check with multimeter if pin 2 is receiving a voltage returning to PCB?
 

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