Not had a good experience with them . Over time they can leak at the seal . They were ok or not so bad when hot . It's not always possible to get back on to recrimp .
If you don't solder you would be better using compression fittings.
That's what I found , the tyre of was the easy bit. The tube was very heavy and hellish to work with , It was 1/2 inch thick if not more, the rubber protector round the wheel rim was also awkward
It took a while
Difficult without seeing it but Worth having a check to see if any voltage of the windings
Maybe diode blown of fuse blown on the board
Make and model , pics might help
We had one inspector who was a complete arsehole , After he got told not to come back the job became much easier . The next one was good to deal with and never made a big thing about any issues.
If your standards are reasonable don't let them intimidate you
The 30 year old one will be fine for raw power giving heat and light but probably won't have auto voltage regulation which would be preferred for computers etc.
If you but an engine driven try and get one that runs at 1500 rpm.
Old British stand by sets are usually cheap for what they are...
Not that I know of , I have seen the black pearl where there was a big mouse problem and find 60 or 70 dead mice in the morning, after 3 days problem gone
If you are only repairing 2-3metres put a vj at either end and pic in between .
If doing more vj at either end and adapt to whatever size of mdpe pipe you use
I never tried pvc in a VJ coupler ? Depend on the wall thickness I suppose whether it would hold tight.
The proper match the 2 inch asbestos is actually 63 mm but vj can handle 50 mm mope
If your pvc is 5mm wall it's worth a try
You are correct , It is a Viking Jonson coupler you need . You need to be very careful not to disturb the asbestos or you will find it cracking , cut the asbestos in situ and then scrape 6 inches clear at the end to get the coupling on . You will need a bit of 50 mm blue (Maybe about 1 metre)and...
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