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22mm dia hole and getting a correct distance on a mill?
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<blockquote data-quote="tinman" data-source="post: 6856818" data-attributes="member: 11821"><p>What the tall guy says is right about pre marking holes with the lazer, i wouldn't do it either, on top of that id assume that pre cutting even a small guide hold will harden the surface area of the hole and anything following it to bore it out larger wont thank you for it.</p><p>id be inclined to cut the plates out and bore my own holes then.</p><p></p><p>So im kinda with you on what your doing but not 100% either.</p><p>how big are the plates your looking to work on, overall size wise?</p><p>what thickness are they, given your bearing is 16mm wide im assuming that or wider at least?</p><p>what is expected of the bearings when fitted, load wise and whats retaining the rod thats to run through the needle bearings?</p><p></p><p>21.98 is fairly close to 55/64 in imperial, you can get reamers in that size, as to the finished hole it leaves for the fitment of the bearing one couldn't be so sure until you would try it.</p><p>loctite 648 will be your friend after that if not.</p><p></p><p>Im taking it that the holes/frame will be spaced 132mm wide, that the outside dimensions of the unit?, 2 x 16mm bearings=32mm and 100mm between the plates which will be 16mm each?</p><p></p><p>If you couldn't turn up a imperial reamer and no guarantee it would be the exact size then id be looking at boring out the plates to as close to the size as possible and use a boring head on the mill to finish it out to 21.98 for the bearing, set that up on a test piece first and go from there altho a boring head isnt going to like boring out a hole 140mm from the head, there will be some deflection that would have to be taken into account.</p><p></p><p>Failing that tack the plates together first and bore them out to size, turn say 150mm long rods down to 21.98 and insert them through the holes for alignment when you'd have the spacer in, maybe turn bosses for them to go into on the back side so they sit square and make up a jig on the likes of a flat plate so nothing can move and weld it then, they will be a bit tight to remove when finished and allow for that when making the "guide rods", ie, turn a smaller diameter on the end so you can knock them out without mushrooming the head of them, maybe have a hole in the bottom of the jig plate so you can knock them out from behind just in case.</p><p></p><p>don't know if that's any help but it might be some ideas.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tinman, post: 6856818, member: 11821"] What the tall guy says is right about pre marking holes with the lazer, i wouldn't do it either, on top of that id assume that pre cutting even a small guide hold will harden the surface area of the hole and anything following it to bore it out larger wont thank you for it. id be inclined to cut the plates out and bore my own holes then. So im kinda with you on what your doing but not 100% either. how big are the plates your looking to work on, overall size wise? what thickness are they, given your bearing is 16mm wide im assuming that or wider at least? what is expected of the bearings when fitted, load wise and whats retaining the rod thats to run through the needle bearings? 21.98 is fairly close to 55/64 in imperial, you can get reamers in that size, as to the finished hole it leaves for the fitment of the bearing one couldn't be so sure until you would try it. loctite 648 will be your friend after that if not. Im taking it that the holes/frame will be spaced 132mm wide, that the outside dimensions of the unit?, 2 x 16mm bearings=32mm and 100mm between the plates which will be 16mm each? If you couldn't turn up a imperial reamer and no guarantee it would be the exact size then id be looking at boring out the plates to as close to the size as possible and use a boring head on the mill to finish it out to 21.98 for the bearing, set that up on a test piece first and go from there altho a boring head isnt going to like boring out a hole 140mm from the head, there will be some deflection that would have to be taken into account. Failing that tack the plates together first and bore them out to size, turn say 150mm long rods down to 21.98 and insert them through the holes for alignment when you'd have the spacer in, maybe turn bosses for them to go into on the back side so they sit square and make up a jig on the likes of a flat plate so nothing can move and weld it then, they will be a bit tight to remove when finished and allow for that when making the "guide rods", ie, turn a smaller diameter on the end so you can knock them out without mushrooming the head of them, maybe have a hole in the bottom of the jig plate so you can knock them out from behind just in case. don't know if that's any help but it might be some ideas. [/QUOTE]
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22mm dia hole and getting a correct distance on a mill?
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