John Deere 2650/2850

MrOl

Member
Location
Herts / Essex
Anyone have a checklist of things to look out for when buying a JD 26/2850 4WD - going to look at a few examples and just wanted to go informed? I’ve heard that hydraulics can be a weakness on these as an example.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Get the transmission oil warm and move the splitter to "high". Then wait for the low transmission oil pressure warning light to come on or for the steering or linkage to shudder when moved, due to oil starvation to the main hydraulic pump. The high low splitter internal clutch actuator piston o rings leak oil and starve the main hydraulic pump. Usual,y happens about 6000 hours in all that era of JD. Rubbish hydraulics IMO.
 

Phil P

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
North West
Radiator pressure test, hydraulic pressure test, transmission pressure test.

Check it’s got proper coolant in as they prone to rotting round the liners with water antifreeze mix (look for water in the oil) also usual head gasket problems to look for.

Anything that hasn’t already had the hi/lo seals done will almost certainly need them doing, and hydraulic pump will probably need an overhaul. If they’ve been done, jobs a goodun ?

It’s also worth checking for play in the transmission top shaft, drive the tractor in 1st highish the come on and off the throttle sharp a few times and see if the gear leave jumps back and forth on its own. Excessive play can be shimmed out but it’s another cab/rock shaft housing off job, left unchecked it can damage the transmission housing.

If it got a loader on check front axle pivot and lower king pins for excessive ware.

Can’t think of anything else major to look for just general condition.

Hope that’s a little help.
 

MrOl

Member
Location
Herts / Essex
Get the transmission oil warm and move the splitter to "high". Then wait for the low transmission oil pressure warning light to come on or for the steering or linkage to shudder when moved, due to oil starvation to the main hydraulic pump. The high low splitter internal clutch actuator piston o rings leak oil and starve the main hydraulic pump. Usual,y happens about 6000 hours in all that era of JD. Rubbish hydraulics IMO.

Presumably if you put it into high and the light doesn’t come on / things don’t start shuddering then the o rings are ok? Or are you saying they do this as ‘standard’? If it does do it, is this an expensive issue to sort out.
 

DrWazzock

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Lincolnshire
Presumably if you put it into high and the light doesn’t come on / things don’t start shuddering then the o rings are ok? Or are you saying they do this as ‘standard’? If it does do it, is this an expensive issue to sort out.

If you put it in high and it doesn't start shuddering then it should be OK. But O rings harden with age and I would say most tractors of that type will have these issues sooner or later. Take a tech man with you and he can tap into the supply pressure from the transmission pump which is in the back end to the hydraulic pump at the front end and see if it is adequate pressure. Quite a big job to split tractor and recondition splitter clutch pack. My view, unless it's already been done, AVOID.

JD have closed centre hydraulics with an intermediate reservoir that runs out if tipping a big trailer etc. I don't like JD hydraulics at all. Go for a brand with open centre hydraulics then they won't come to a shuddering halt when you tip a big trailer.

Have a look at the cab interior. A lot of cheap plastic and most of the upholstery hanging off. Check handbrake. If not working could mean splitting the back end. Engine balancer can fail after 6000 hours then it's good night Vienna. Offer 5 grand. JD aren't all they are cracked uo to be.

Good luck.
 

MrOl

Member
Location
Herts / Essex
Radiator pressure test, hydraulic pressure test, transmission pressure test.

Check it’s got proper coolant in as they prone to rotting round the liners with water antifreeze mix (look for water in the oil) also usual head gasket problems to look for.

Anything that hasn’t already had the hi/lo seals done will almost certainly need them doing, and hydraulic pump will probably need an overhaul. If they’ve been done, jobs a goodun [emoji106]

It’s also worth checking for play in the transmission top shaft, drive the tractor in 1st highish the come on and off the throttle sharp a few times and see if the gear leave jumps back and forth on its own. Excessive play can be shimmed out but it’s another cab/rock shaft housing off job, left unchecked it can damage the transmission housing.

If it got a loader on check front axle pivot and lower king pins for excessive ware.

Can’t think of anything else major to look for just general condition.

Hope that’s a little help.

Thanks. Not sure I’m qualified to run all the pressure tests. Will do as DrW says and probably get a tech to give it once over.
 

MrOl

Member
Location
Herts / Essex
If you put it in high and it doesn't start shuddering then it should be OK. But O rings harden with age and I would say most tractors of that type will have these issues sooner or later. Take a tech man with you and he can tap into the supply pressure from the transmission pump which is in the back end to the hydraulic pump at the front end and see if it is adequate pressure. Quite a big job to split tractor and recondition splitter clutch pack. My view, unless it's already been done, AVOID.

JD have closed centre hydraulics with an intermediate reservoir that runs out if tipping a big trailer etc. I don't like JD hydraulics at all. Go for a brand with open centre hydraulics then they won't come to a shuddering halt when you tip a big trailer.

Have a look at the cab interior. A lot of cheap plastic and most of the upholstery hanging off. Check handbrake. If not working could mean splitting the back end. Engine balancer can fail after 6000 hours then it's good night Vienna. Offer 5 grand. JD aren't all they are cracked uo to be.

Good luck.

Thanks. Will try and find out as much as I can.
 

MrOl

Member
Location
Herts / Essex
Check for play in the hydraulic levers wear stops them from moving all the way.

So 2850 in a state but the 2650 looks good and couldn’t find anything really wrong with it. Haven’t had the system fully pressure tested but passed all the other hydraulic tests and all the other suggestions above. Have a short warranty period so will get it fully tested before that expires so will hopefully not be a lemon....although I guess you can never be sure with a 28 year old machine.

What would people’s recommendation be on appropriate implement sizes for a 2650 (78hp) eg flail mower, topper, plough, power harrow, tipping trailer. I’m thinking 2.5m, 3m, 3f and 2.5-3m, 10t respectively?
 

Flat 10

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Fen Edge
So 2850 in a state but the 2650 looks good and couldn’t find anything really wrong with it. Haven’t had the system fully pressure tested but passed all the other hydraulic tests and all the other suggestions above. Have a short warranty period so will get it fully tested before that expires so will hopefully not be a lemon....although I guess you can never be sure with a 28 year old machine.

What would people’s recommendation be on appropriate implement sizes for a 2650 (78hp) eg flail mower, topper, plough, power harrow, tipping trailer. I’m thinking 2.5m, 3m, 3f and 2.5-3m, 10t respectively?
Sounds sensible. Obviously depends on how hard you will work various machines. If you have a big hill (unlikely in essex) a 10t trailer will be plenty. similarly if you put the flail into a proper jungle it will struggle but on normal topping duties it be fine.
 

MrOl

Member
Location
Herts / Essex
So got myself a SG2 2650 which generally seems to be going well. However realised tonight the link arm rams aren’t fully dropping when the control lever is at the lowest point. Slightly irritating as makes it tricky picking up lower implements (like a topper). Any suggestions of what might help - I’m thinking it’s probably an adjustment needed somewhere as the hydraulics all seem to be working fine in other respects?
 

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MrOl

Member
Location
Herts / Essex
The big flail mower hits the ground before they are at the bottom. I guess I need to find a dip and drop it right down there to see if it pulls the right down.
 

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