Economics of different shed spans

Forever Fendt

Member
Location
Derbyshire
How would a 50' span plus 30' lean to compare cost wide to a 80' clearspan.

Also say a 80'x80' compared to a 60'x100' (I know 80x80 is slightly bigger)

Just looking for an idea not an actual quote. Thanks
@RWG Contracts @BobGreen @Graham Heath Construction
Your span and lean to will be the cheapest option but you will have a lower eaves height on one side and internal posts, will these be a problem or can they be used in the layout
 

KennyO

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Angus
so the posts will take concrete panels for a devision wall,sound ideal Add a 5ft or 6ft canopy to the lean to you will have a good shed. I don't like having cattle and straw in the same shed as fire does concern me a bit

Fire risk is the downside. Two separate sheds would be ideal but too expensive I think. (Suspect one will be too expensive too)
 

Iben

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Fife
What sort of % cheaper would you expect? An open span would have heavier steel, a lean two would be lighter steel work but 50% more legs?
 

bravheart

Member
Location
scottish borders
Had this conversation with a shed builder many moons ago, so if the grey matter recalls correctly, these were the relevant points-
Around 50'-60' was the most economical width in terms of steel cost.
It is cheaper to build a proper shed with an apex than a lean-to.
You need to be very careful with ventilation in a shed with straw built up high blocking off air movement to the cattle.
Hth.
M.
 

dannewhouse

Member
Location
huddersfield
there will be little saving relative to the whole project cost doing a lean to ...
roof sheets are fixed (depending slightly on pitch) but they are roughly £1 per square foot (floor area)
timber purlins also fixed add up to about 50p per square foot ground area (perhaps a little cheaper)

the steel work is around £1 per square foot floor area <<< whether it ends up being 95p for the lean to setup or 1.05 for the larger span makes little difference £640 ish difference on the kit building but will be cheaper to put the single span up.

the 80x80 vs 100*60 it doesn't normally make much difference to the price per floor area if it alters by 5% its not worth considering go with the biggest or best for your system/location. as said above 50/60 might be the most economical but a few % extra on the cost can get you a lot better shed

stack straw in 1 end so leave the cattle a ridge and open/boarded sides for ventilation. also I have never herd a farmer say I wish I had saved that few hundred quid and put lean toos up instead of this large span!
 

KennyO

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Angus
there will be little saving relative to the whole project cost doing a lean to ...
roof sheets are fixed (depending slightly on pitch) but they are roughly £1 per square foot (floor area)
timber purlins also fixed add up to about 50p per square foot ground area (perhaps a little cheaper)

the steel work is around £1 per square foot floor area <<< whether it ends up being 95p for the lean to setup or 1.05 for the larger span makes little difference £640 ish difference on the kit building but will be cheaper to put the single span up.

the 80x80 vs 100*60 it doesn't normally make much difference to the price per floor area if it alters by 5% its not worth considering go with the biggest or best for your system/location. as said above 50/60 might be the most economical but a few % extra on the cost can get you a lot better shed

stack straw in 1 end so leave the cattle a ridge and open/boarded sides for ventilation. also I have never herd a farmer say I wish I had saved that few hundred quid and put lean toos up instead of this large span!

Well that was another another option I had considered which could work well with existing yard however seems wasteful of height having cattle in a big high straw shed.

Will need to look at different options. May be better building a cattle shed separately (at other end of farmyard) and only having it 14' to eaves and then building a 60x60x25' (with option to extend) high straw shed on current stackyard.

Straw shed will need concrete floor and some panels as it will also be a wet tip for grain.
 

dannewhouse

Member
Location
huddersfield
Well that was another another option I had considered which could work well with existing yard however seems wasteful of height having cattle in a big high straw shed.

Will need to look at different options. May be better building a cattle shed separately (at other end of farmyard) and only having it 14' to eaves and then building a 60x60x25' (with option to extend) high straw shed on current stackyard.

Straw shed will need concrete floor and some panels as it will also be a wet tip for grain.

whats wrong with 16ft high cattle sheds? < I wouldn't want much lower certainly don't regret it being so tall you never know what you might use it for
 

dannewhouse

Member
Location
huddersfield
40ft is best width
Wide sheds end up with wasted space like feed passages
Always go taller, 20ft eves you cant raise it later
52 ft here and just feed on front, could go upto 60ft feeding on front as long as adlib

is a feed passage a waste? if you were going to put a cantilever on both sides of say an 80ft span it would cost the same as say a 90ft without cantilevers (if you see what I mean but could be totally enclosed to stop birds getting the TMR?) I suppose 2 5ft cantilevers is ok but a 10ft passage too tight so need 15ft?
 

glasshouse

Member
Location
lothians
52 ft here and just feed on front, could go upto 60ft feeding on front as long as adlib

is a feed passage a waste? if you were going to put a cantilever on both sides of say an 80ft span it would cost the same as say a 90ft without cantilevers (if you see what I mean but could be totally enclosed to stop birds getting the TMR?) I suppose 2 5ft cantilevers is ok but a 10ft passage too tight so need 15ft?
Exactly right
If you have ever seen a cows head ripped off you will never use a tight passage again, or a tongue ripped out.
With free access on one side, you can reach right in with a telehandler, so no need to enter the pen at all, plus you can push feed up etc
 

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