NZ suffolks.

Eh? Because it rains here occasionally, gets cold often, and I want the lambs to do as their father has done. Which is survive in real life conditions and grow on grass, not survive on a combination of hard feeding and heat lamps !
Currently lambing 3/4 to pure texel and beltex ewes inside and haven't had a heat lamp on once. The rest of the flock which are texel/mules and 3/4 texel and beltex will have the twins lambed outside from mid April to texel/beltex tups and there usually isn't a lot of bother.

But these lambs are usually worth £20 to £25 per head more when they are sold
 

easyram1

Member
Location
North Shropshire
Can you really claim brownie points for zero concentrates, when you've gone to the cost and trouble of establishing a crop to winter them on? Will they winter on permanent pasture or not?

We definitely don’t grow fodder beet for the benefit of the sheep, it’s hard on ewes being in a group of 1000 + head working their way across a 15 acre field jan/feb/March. They’d be much happier on grass all winter, they are wintered on roots so they’ve got grass to go at come lambing time.
 

easyram1

Member
Location
North Shropshire
These will be some of our twin ewes on the point of lambing. Good deep bodied ewes, bursting with milk.
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These will be some of our twin ewes on the point of lambing. Good deep bodied ewes, bursting with milk. View attachment 950802
If those ewes had been up here on roots all winter they'd be brown.

With grass like that any sheep would live easily with zero concentrates, ewe not capable of milking on that grass needs culled
Down there is a different word to where many of us live.
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
If those ewes had been up here on roots all winter they'd be brown.

With grass like that any sheep would live easily with zero concentrates, ewe not capable of milking on that grass needs culled
Down there is a different word to where many of us live.

I suspect the grass is like that in the lambing paddocks because the ewes have been paddling round on beet fields all winter, resting the grass. ;) My lambing paddocks are the same, but only as they've not had sheep on since November. The one paddock where I had to keep ewes on silage until early-January is as bare as a badger's arse and has quarter of an acre of brown where the feeders were. The difference, on just the other side of the fence, is down to my management.

My sheep are also whiter than that, but only because they haven't been jumping all over each other around ring feeders all winter. They stay a lot cleaner on muddy root fields than ever they do on grass fields with silage feeders to congregate round, unless you give them the same ring feeders in the root fields of course.
 
I suspect the grass is like that in the lambing paddocks because the ewes have been paddling round on beet fields all winter, resting the grass. ;) My lambing paddocks are the same, but only as they've not had sheep on since November. The one paddock where I had to keep ewes on silage until early-January is as bare as a badger's arse and has quarter of an acre of brown where the feeders were. The difference, on just the other side of the fence, is down to my management.

My sheep are also whiter than that, but only because they haven't been jumping all over each other around ring feeders all winter. They stay a lot cleaner on muddy root fields than ever they do on grass fields with silage feeders to congregate round, unless you give them the same ring feeders in the root fields of course.
My point us that if a ewe cannot manage in grass like that without concentrate she needs hung up.

There won't be grass like that up here for another month
 
To have grass like that here, you'd have to house the ewes from the end of October which would be ridiculous. Or pay 80p to £1 a week for keep. They would still come back in March and bare the place off before the grass starts growing.

I'd be very wary of buying ewes that have enjoyed good ground all their lives, because I've done it before and they take about 2 years to get over the shock of the move 😄
 
To have grass like that here, you'd have to house the ewes from the end of October which would be ridiculous. Or pay 80p to £1 a week for keep. They would still come back in March and bare the place off before the grass starts growing.

I'd be very wary of buying ewes that have enjoyed good ground all their lives, because I've done it before and they take about 2 years to get over the shock of the move 😄
Bringing sheep that are used to that paradise up here would not add up to happy sheep.
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
To have grass like that here, you'd have to house the ewes from the end of October which would be ridiculous. Or pay 80p to £1 a week for keep. They would still come back in March and bare the place off before the grass starts growing.

And here. When I said I was off my lambing paddocks in November, I meant that they were off by tupping on November 5th. It has only started to grow much in the last ten days or so. Where it was grazed for longer, Spring growth has certainly been delayed more.

The grazing group I am in push for being off early to leave longer covers over winter to enable earlier Spring grazing. I agree totally with your point that getting off early incurs extra costs in the Autumn/early Winter, so it's just moving costs to a degree, and arguable as to the benefit if you do it over the whole farm.
I would guess @easyram1 has incurred those extra costs in order to have sufficient cover on the lambing paddocks, as have I. If we'd chosen to leave sheep pudging round on the whole lot all winter then we'd also have no covers anywhere now, and would need to feed concentrates over lambing. They'd also steadily reduce the productive species in the swards, as set stocking always does, leading the farm to become 'sheep farmer' sick.
 

easyram1

Member
Location
North Shropshire
If those ewes had been up here on roots all winter they'd be brown.

With grass like that any sheep would live easily with zero concentrates, ewe not capable of milking on that grass needs culled
Down there is a different word to where many of us live.
The real question is not who has got most grass at a certain time of year ( try here in most July and Augusts when we resemble the Sahara). The proper question is what determines in this instance a sheep's performance. Is it environment or is it genetics? So 15 years ago when we first went down the route of breeding more functional sheep, we retained a few of our old unsaleable Crosemanor flock ewes, bought Wye Colleges very highly ranking performance recorded Amage flock of Suffolks and another small pedigree Suffolk flock from Devon. These were run alongside our imported NZ Suffolks that came over as embryos. These UK Suffolks were all tupped by pure NZ Suffolk rams. Three years later we sold all the UK Suffolks and their graded up offspring because they could not hack it on a grass only management system ( however good our grass was) All Suffolks in NZ ( and all other countries worldwide) were originally sourced from top East Anglian flocks such as Lawshall and Benacre. So why today are NZ Suffolks so different in their behaviour and body structure to the UK' version as to be almost a different breed. So our experience of running the two types side by side was that our UK Suffolks from the different sources could not milk retain or recover BCS on a grass only diet and consequently their lambs also would not grow as well as their NZ cousins. The 2 big differences we have noticed throughout is that the NZ sheep graze much more aggressively and also had bigger rumens, when compared to our UK sheep. Having a bigger engine under the bonnet is obviously important if your primary aim in life is to convert forage and NOT concentrates into milk and meat. So our experience tells us that it is the genetics and not the environment that counts. The fact that our rams of all breeds can and do thrive in all parts of the UK supports this theory.
 

easyram1

Member
Location
North Shropshire
And here. When I said I was off my lambing paddocks in November, I meant that they were off by tupping on November 5th. It has only started to grow much in the last ten days or so. Where it was grazed for longer, Spring growth has certainly been delayed more.

The grazing group I am in push for being off early to leave longer covers over winter to enable earlier Spring grazing. I agree totally with your point that getting off early incurs extra costs in the Autumn/early Winter, so it's just moving costs to a degree, and arguable as to the benefit if you do it over the whole farm.
I would guess @easyram1 has incurred those extra costs in order to have sufficient cover on the lambing paddocks, as have I. If we'd chosen to leave sheep pudging round on the whole lot all winter then we'd also have no covers anywhere now, and would need to feed concentrates over lambing. They'd also steadily reduce the productive species in the swards, as set stocking always does, leading the farm to become 'sheep farmer' sick.
I agree 100% Like you we also have large numbers of young stock that also need wintering. If you are going to setstock all your land over winter you will not only have no grass for lambing but as you say you will destroy your pastures by weakening the more productive species by constant and repeated grazing.
 
Oh Dearie me😢 apologies for delivering 155 "Unhappy Rams" to 86 sheep farmers throughout the Scottish mainland and islands last year. At least the 52 repeat customers seemed happy enough with their EasyRams.
Don't come with your self righteous bollox to me.

If you took those particular sheep from where you are right now and brought them up here to bare fields they wouldn't be happy.
Disagree with that if you want and I'd think a lot more of you if you didn't turn everything into a super duper sales pitch and brag when you're one of the men who bred the types of sheep who became so undesirable that many commercial flocks won't go back to Suffolk for a generation.
 

gatepost

Member
Location
Cotswolds
Thinking about using these on a cheviot mules to and selling the Suffolk x gimmers as breeders.

Want are people thoughts on the NZ suffolks.
You could always try these [emoji22]neighbours Shetland got in, 5x twins, 4x singles, great for outdoor lambing, just I expect a value difference, what do we think? Instead of 3 quarter tex, there is always a price to pay for ease, but that might well be the right thing for some. I think about 500 quid down.
DSC_0682.JPG
 
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The real question is not who has got most grass at a certain time of year ( try here in most July and Augusts when we resemble the Sahara). The proper question is what determines in this instance a sheep's performance. Is it environment or is it genetics? So 15 years ago when we first went down the route of breeding more functional sheep, we retained a few of our old unsaleable Crosemanor flock ewes, bought Wye Colleges very highly ranking performance recorded Amage flock of Suffolks and another small pedigree Suffolk flock from Devon. These were run alongside our imported NZ Suffolks that came over as embryos. These UK Suffolks were all tupped by pure NZ Suffolk rams. Three years later we sold all the UK Suffolks and their graded up offspring because they could not hack it on a grass only management system ( however good our grass was) All Suffolks in NZ ( and all other countries worldwide) were originally sourced from top East Anglian flocks such as Lawshall and Benacre. So why today are NZ Suffolks so different in their behaviour and body structure to the UK' version as to be almost a different breed. So our experience of running the two types side by side was that our UK Suffolks from the different sources could not milk retain or recover BCS on a grass only diet and consequently their lambs also would not grow as well as their NZ cousins. The 2 big differences we have noticed throughout is that the NZ sheep graze much more aggressively and also had bigger rumens, when compared to our UK sheep. Having a bigger engine under the bonnet is obviously important if your primary aim in life is to convert forage and NOT concentrates into milk and meat. So our experience tells us that it is the genetics and not the environment that counts. The fact that our rams of all breeds can and do thrive in all parts of the UK supports this theory.
Yeah too many of the Suffolk breeders of yesteryear took the breed down the wrong road.
Some switched on breeders kept theirs on the right track and have successful sheep without the need to go to NZ for genetics.
 
The real question is not who has got most grass at a certain time of year ( try here in most July and Augusts when we resemble the Sahara). The proper question is what determines in this instance a sheep's performance. Is it environment or is it genetics? So 15 years ago when we first went down the route of breeding more functional sheep, we retained a few of our old unsaleable Crosemanor flock ewes, bought Wye Colleges very highly ranking performance recorded Amage flock of Suffolks and another small pedigree Suffolk flock from Devon. These were run alongside our imported NZ Suffolks that came over as embryos. These UK Suffolks were all tupped by pure NZ Suffolk rams. Three years later we sold all the UK Suffolks and their graded up offspring because they could not hack it on a grass only management system ( however good our grass was) All Suffolks in NZ ( and all other countries worldwide) were originally sourced from top East Anglian flocks such as Lawshall and Benacre. So why today are NZ Suffolks so different in their behaviour and body structure to the UK' version as to be almost a different breed. So our experience of running the two types side by side was that our UK Suffolks from the different sources could not milk retain or recover BCS on a grass only diet and consequently their lambs also would not grow as well as their NZ cousins. The 2 big differences we have noticed throughout is that the NZ sheep graze much more aggressively and also had bigger rumens, when compared to our UK sheep. Having a bigger engine under the bonnet is obviously important if your primary aim in life is to convert forage and NOT concentrates into milk and meat. So our experience tells us that it is the genetics and not the environment that counts. The fact that our rams of all breeds can and do thrive in all parts of the UK supports this theory.
I'm sorry but saying the environment doesn't count is rubbish. There is a huge difference between farming sheep on arable land where you can grow fodder crops and rotate fields with arable crops, compared to farming on upland wet PP.

In the latter case you have costs for either wintering away or housing which are the same whatever breed you have. So you may as well produce lambs that command a premium as it costs the same to feed a good one as an average one. As Gatepost posted above the price of easy lambing can be considerable!
 

neilo

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Montgomeryshire
I'm sorry but saying the environment doesn't count is rubbish. There is a huge difference between farming sheep on arable land where you can grow fodder crops and rotate fields with arable crops, compared to farming on upland wet PP.

In the latter case you have costs for either wintering away or housing which are the same whatever breed you have. So you may as well produce lambs that command a premium as it costs the same to feed a good one as an average one. As Gatepost posted above the price of easy lambing can be considerable!

Do you think fodder crops are without cost, or in any way better than away wintering on dairy grass?
In a wet winter like the last two years, sheep performance will also be considerably better either in a shed, or on dairy grass somewhere.

The only advantage of wintering on fodder crops is the potential of being cheaper (unless local tack is cheap of course) and the increase in OM on the cropped land, assuming it’s not somebody else’s. Sheep do ok on them overwinter, but certainly not great.
 

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