Weaving GD user thread

lostdog · Oct 9, 2022

We were advised by Mike on set up day to calibrate it so that your max speed was around 18kph. This keeps a happy compromise between 'spooning' and the motor going too quickly.
I'm not to sure about the book, the fan speed it recommends for a 6m irc is 5000 but if you run ours more than 4500 it turns the green seeding pictures to red crosses which was quite irritating the first time I tried drilling cereals this autumn.

lostdog · Oct 9, 2022

I was also told that when planting grass seed it can blow out of that hole if you don't use the reducing ring that fits on to the elbow pipe on the bottom. Something to do with the grass seed being so light. I appreciate your not planting grass but it might help diagnose the problem

Two Tone · Oct 11, 2022

Bit of a strange one today. Drilling into a neighbours min-till, followed by power-harrowed land.
Shallowed the discs up top top-middle where they follow the tractor wheels, but top/back shallowest position in the middle where that land hasn’t been squashed by the tractor wheels.
Without do that, the rear middle coulters stall and act like a potato ridge!

The only other problem was the markers making rather a large trench.

jack6480 · Oct 12, 2022

I try and convince myself every year I can drill beans with my gd and quickly realise it’s a crap bean drill

Two Tone · Oct 12, 2022

jack6480 said:
I try and convince myself every year I can drill beans with my gd and quickly realise it’s a crap bean drill

I’ve no experience of a GD with beans.
Is it a seed depth and slot closure problem?
Do you wonder if some sort of soil loosening device (such as Weaving’s LD Topsoiler) would help?

Adeptandy · Oct 12, 2022

Only issue I’ve had so far with beans is the odd pipe blocking in dressed, multiple issues with blocking off the heap ( to finish a headland ) won’t do that again

Badshot · Oct 12, 2022

I've done beans with mine.

Into turf, and wheat stubble.
Both were successful.
Tundra.
I did have the largest seed chucked away on the gravity table though, big seeds don't go well with the gd
Conditions need to be good for it to work.
The main advantage is of course the low disturbance.
A tine is probably more reliable but at the expense of more disturbance.

jack6480 · Oct 12, 2022

This is worked ground in the summer rolled it to try and firm it up but it’s just blocking the discs and dragging. Very fustrating

Adeptandy · Oct 12, 2022

jack6480 said:
This is worked ground in the summer rolled it to try and firm it up but it’s just blocking the discs and dragging. Very fustrating

I have this fear at the mo, paraplow and then pressed as a bit of compaction was hindering roots, done a brilliant job, but as we’ve had very little rain it’s worryingly loose on top. Torn on wether to stop on the winter drilling land or not

Badshot · Oct 12, 2022

jack6480 said:
This is worked ground in the summer rolled it to try and firm it up but it’s just blocking the discs and dragging. Very fustrating

Ah.

That's not really gd territory.

It excels in stubbles or turf, loose or stony it's not so clever.

Probably would have gone ok if you'd got some cover established with roots to hold it together.

Hindsight is a wonderful thing.
Try not going so deep

Two Tone · Oct 13, 2022

jack6480 said:
This is worked ground in the summer rolled it to try and firm it up but it’s just blocking the discs and dragging. Very fustrating

Ah, this sound very similar to problems I was getting as in post 1123, but which was I trying to drill relatively shallow.

Bearing in mind GD’s are designed to go into undisturbed soils, trying to drill at any sort of reasonable depth for something like beans will cause the discs to stall and block IF the land is disturbed pre-drilling.
Once those discs stall, they act like a potato ridger, going in even deeper then and acting like a bulldozer.

I’ve never drilled beans with mine. So I’ve never used mine deeper than the middle bottom depth hole. But would assume you need to be into the front, middle or bottom depth hole for beans.
IMO, probably needing decent, not very warn discs, properly shimmed to get the correct depth.
Probably also a reasonably full enough drill hopper, to get enough weight to make the discs go in deep enough and get enough pressure on the wheel to close the slot properly.

I also don’t grow Spring crops. Bearing in mind these need to be drilled 2 weeks later than conventional to allow the ground to dry out enough and if we then got a drought, IMO the idea of moving the soil on Spring sown crops with something like a Topdown, looks appealing, as @ajd132 suggests. But using a GD might still cause the same ‘too deep’ and therefore ‘discs stalling’ problems. Therefore moving soils pre-drilling needs to be fairly shallow, so that the discs still have enough understudied soil below them to get enough traction to continue to rotate the discs properly.
However, a tine type DD might be preferable here. But I haven’t got one and don’t want to pay for another drill!

Even though @SilliamWhale doesn’t use a GD, his years of experience with DD are extremely valuable. He advocates having both types of drill, being Disc and Tine and I can see why. Especially for Spring drilling
The GD’s angled discs are going to accentuate a blocking problem on disturbed soils compared to his vertical disced JD750A.

ajd132 · Oct 13, 2022

Two Tone said:
Ah, this sound very similar to problems I was getting as in post 1123, but which was trying drill relatively shallow.

Bearing in mind GD’s are designed to go into undisturbed soils, trying to drill at any sort of reasonable depth for something like beans will cause the discs to stall and block IF the land is disturbed pre-drilling.
Once those discs stall, they act like a potato ridger, going in even deeper then and acting like a bulldozer.

I’ve never drilled beans with mine. So I’ve never used mine deeper than the middle bottom depth hole. But would assume you need to be into the front, middle or bottom depth hole for beans.
IMO, probably needing decent, not very warn discs, properly shimmed to get the correct depth.
Probably also a reasonably full enough drill hopper, to get enough weight to make the discs go in deep enough and get enough pressure on the wheel to close the slot properly.

I also don’t grow Spring crops. Bearing in mind these need to be drilled 2 weeks later than conventional to allow the ground to dry out enough and if we then got a drought, IMO the idea of moving the soil on Spring sown crops with something like a Topdown, looks appealing, as @ajd132 suggests. But using a GD might still cause the same ‘too deep’ and therefore ‘discs stalling’ problems. Therefore moving soils pre-drilling needs to be fairly shallow, so that the discs still have enough understudied soil below them to get enough traction to continue to rotate the discs properly.
However, a tine type DD might be preferable here. But I haven’t got one and don’t want to pay for another drill!

Even though @SilliamWhale doesn’t use a GD, his years of experience with DD are extremely valuable. He advocates having both types of drill, being Disc and Tine and I can see why. Especially for Spring drilling
The GD’s angled discs are going to accentuate a blocking problem on disturbed soils compared to his vertical disced JD750A.

We’ve just drilled 200ha of extra winter crop into land destined for spring crops that was topdowned and drilled with a cover crop. Went a treat with the avatar.

Two Tone · Oct 13, 2022

Wheat established into Winter Linseed stubble, its straw having been chopped.

I’d normally drill at an angle to the way the last crop was drilled, but if the tramlines were drilled in the right place the last time I drilled it, I’ll continue to use them and not put new ones in at an angle to them.
However, on Winter Linseed stubbles, I’m happy to drill without an angle, in the same direction as the previous year, as on this field.

I haven't got GPS, so can’t get the new row exactly in the middle of last year’s rows, which is why I would normally drill at an angle each year.
Another thing I have noticed is that because the soil isn’t disturbed, tramline ruts are a thing of the past.

Thanks for your advise re my worries of trying to drill though chopped Linseed straw @ajd132 . You were right to suggest “It’ll be fine”.

E_B · Oct 13, 2022

Two Tone said:
View attachment 1069436
Wheat established into Winter Linseed stubble, its straw having been chopped.

I’d normally drill at an angle to the way the last crop was drilled, but if the tramlines were drilled in the right place the last time I drilled it, I’ll continue to use them and not put new ones in at an angle to them.
However, on Winter Linseed stubbles, I’m happy to drill without an angle, in the same direction as the previous year, as on this field.

I haven't got GPS, so can’t get the new row exactly in the middle of last year’s rows, which is why I would normally drill at an angle each year.
Another thing I have noticed is that because the soil isn’t disturbed, tramline ruts are a thing of the past.

Thanks for your advise re my worries of trying to drill though chopped Linseed straw @ajd132 . You were right to suggest “It’ll be fine”.

Can you not see last year's tramlines post drilling? I only got GPS this year but previously 90% of the time I could see the permanent tramlines after drilling, and that's with a strip till drill.

Two Tone · Oct 13, 2022

E_B said:
Can you not see last year's tramlines post drilling? I only got GPS this year but previously 90% of the time I could see the permanent tramlines after drilling, and that's with a strip till drill.

Yes, easily. That’s why I just drill straight through them at and angle, but use them again. They soon get the crop rubbed out in the spring.
Though on the field pictured in post 1233, as it was Linseed, I drilled it the same way as the tramlines are 2 years on the trot.

Here is a perfect example. This field is newly planted Linseed into a 2nd wheat stubble. I was spraying it with Centurion Max today. You can just see the way it was drilled at about 30 degrees to the tramlines.

Tractor Tim · Oct 13, 2022

I put spring beans into winter ploughing this year quickly tickled the top first with the powerharrow and put them in about 3 inch deep with no problems also put some straight into old pasture. Drilling barley last year into lightly cultivated ground the disks kept blocking putting more pressure on helped. But drilling wheat into bean stubble that was winter ploughed was where I had more trouble than anywhere and struggled to do anything about it it has all emerged though, even though it went in wet and had heavy rain straight afterwards seed went mushy and I wasn't holding out much hope but it seems to have all germinated

alomy75 · Oct 13, 2022

Two Tone said:
Yes, easily. That’s why I just drill straight through them at and angle, but use them again. They soon get the crop rubbed out in the spring.
Though on the field pictured in post 1233, as it was Linseed, I drilled it the same way as the tramlines are 2 years on the trot.

Here is a perfect example. This field is newly planted Linseed into a 2nd wheat stubble. I was spraying it with Centurion Max today. You can just see the way it was drilled at about 30 degrees to the tramlines.
View attachment 1069524
View attachment 1069525

What model Fasty is that? 2170? Dash looks 3185 era but bonnet looks newer?

Two Tone · Oct 13, 2022

alomy75 said:
What model Fasty is that? 2170? Dash looks 3185 era but bonnet looks newer?

It’s one of the last 2155’s. About £4K cheaper than a 2170 in 2014.
Both tractors are identical, expect for the ECU, which adds 20hp to the 2170, for £4K!
Have added a chip from Chip Express (£399) that has taken her up from 160 to about 210hp.
She is a brilliant tractor and hopefully it will outlast me here on the farm.

Two Tone · Oct 21, 2022

Drilling for a friend on Sunday with my Weaving:

Him drilling the next door field with his Weaving

One of my former tools from before I started DD’ing leaving the farm today:

Case290 · Oct 21, 2022

Farmer Bill said:
Seem to be getting seed coming out of this gap, should I be concerned? 250 kgs ha 6m 2017 with fan speed at what the book says.
First season with the drill so still learning. Any thoughts much appreciated

View attachment 1068310

Hope you sorted it. Check the bottom elbow is attached properly or it’s not damaged or it’s back pressure fan speed 2 high or blockage . I had the same once

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