Need a joystick

Hesston4860s · Oct 17, 2018

Mr Happy said:
Thanks @ Dave W. Yes I can but I will have to identify what is fitted to @ Hesston4860s current B577 which is no major drama. Yes there are many variations of cetop valves but once we sort out what you have then we can point you in the right direction.

It’s got the standard cable controlled valve block ran off an on board gear pump. Bomford parts shows the electric version of a 577 has a four position manifold, with a 2 way cetop valve where the oil enters and exits the manifold In on the B port and out on the A port. The other 3 positions on the manifold all have a 3 position cetop’s to control each cylinder, the position for the lift cylinder only needs to lift the arm as the other side of the cylinder is Tee’d into the outlet at the A port on the 2 way cetop.

I don’t know if you can make any sense of that ?, I can get the diagrams for the pipe work on the cutter if that helps !. The pipe work is the same on both the cable version and the electric one as far as I can tell.

Hesston4860s · Oct 17, 2018

Here’s a screen shot of the electric version

Mursal · Oct 17, 2018

Not sure about driving the solenoids direct off the joystick with 5A AC contact rating.
Maybe worth checking out .............

Edit:
Consider an ordinary double pole double throw switch so you can toggle the single button between two different applications.

Dave W · Oct 17, 2018

Mursal said:
Not sure about driving the solenoids direct off the joystick with 5A AC contact rating.
Maybe worth checking out .............

Edit:
Consider an ordinary double pole double throw switch so you can toggle the single button between two different applications.

All wired up today. 2 on at once not drawing 3A

Mursal · Oct 17, 2018

Is there any protection circuit for the switch connected across the solenoid coils?
An ordinary junction diode will do the trick for you.
You need to protect the opening switch against arcing, but check the hedger circuit diagram, it may well have them fitted down at the spools?

Mursal · Oct 17, 2018

"A switch’s DC Voltage (VDC) rating is typically always lower than the AC Voltage (VAC) rating at the same current (Amps) rating. For example: A switch rated for 20 amps at 125VAC or (10 amps at 250VAC), would typically have a current rating of less than 1 Amp at 125VDC, and yet the only difference was going from 125 volts AC to 125 volts DC".

Quote taken from here, click for the full article

roscoe erf · Oct 17, 2018

Mr Happy said:
If you mean me then yes I have. [emoji41]

reference title

Mr Happy · Oct 18, 2018

Hesston4860s said:
View attachment 728482 Here’s a screen shot of the electric version

Thanks for the info @ Hesston4860s. I have look at the complete B577 parts book and all it tells me that the valves are made by Vickers and a Bomford part number. The info is sort of helpful as the CETOP 3 valve is probably proportional rather than bang bang. If anyone out there has more tech info please send it my way.

Hesston4860s · Oct 18, 2018

Mr Happy said:
Thanks for the info @ Hesston4860s. I have look at the complete B577 parts book and all it tells me that the valves are made by Vickers and a Bomford part number. The info is sort of helpful as the CETOP 3 valve is probably proportional rather than bang bang. If anyone out there has more tech info please send it my way.

Don’t think the valves on the 577 are proportional, the later 577BSP was tho !.

jack_c · Oct 20, 2018

Dave W said:
All wired up today. 2 on at once not drawing 3A

Any pictures of this?

I have a PA48 and my dipper raise lower is temperamental often meaning the head won’t lift out of the hedge.

What was the symptoms of your problem? Not sure if mine is a sticking solenoid or if it’s the switch. Joystick sounds like a tidy job.

Dave W · Oct 20, 2018

jack_c said:
Any pictures of this?

I have a PA48 and my dipper raise lower is temperamental often meaning the head won’t lift out of the hedge.

What was the symptoms of your problem? Not sure if mine is a sticking solenoid or if it’s the switch. Joystick sounds like a tidy job.

It was pretty simple once you grasp how the diodes work but even they're not complicated. I managed to reuse the diode board from the original.

If you open your box up you'll see how the contacts in the switches work. Very crude setup.
Most likely dirty contacts

Pheasant Surprise · Oct 20, 2018

Mursal said:
Is there any protection circuit for the switch connected across the solenoid coils?
An ordinary junction diode will do the trick for you.
You need to protect the opening switch against arcing, but check the hedger circuit diagram, it may well have them fitted down at the spools?

Mursal said:
"A switch’s DC Voltage (VDC) rating is typically always lower than the AC Voltage (VAC) rating at the same current (Amps) rating. For example: A switch rated for 20 amps at 125VAC or (10 amps at 250VAC), would typically have a current rating of less than 1 Amp at 125VDC, and yet the only difference was going from 125 volts AC to 125 volts DC".

Quote taken from here, click for the full article

None of that usually matters in the short term, when you’re testing. Only matters after it’s been used for a while and the contacts start to pit due to the arcing, which pits them more, and more until they become unreliable or just fuse together.

Need a joystick

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