- Location
- East Sussex
Have you looked at wildcat moderators
I could do, have you got one?
Have you looked at wildcat moderators
About 40p/round from a quick Google. Could homeload a 17hornet for similar.And what is the ammo costing now?
.17 Hornet homeloads I worked out around 24p or thereabouts, depending on powder type used and primers. And a pot of powder lasts an age when you're only using 11-12gns a pop!About 40p/round from a quick Google. Could homeload a 17hornet for similar.
I use a hand press, set of Lee dies and a digital set of scales with powder measure, a primer pocket reamer (as primer depth can be a bit shallow using original Hornaday brass) oh and some lube. It can be as cheap as you make it or as expensive, a lot of stuff can be bought 2nd hand if you keep your eyes open. But I think if I went out and bought everything brand new it would cost circa £250-400what about the cost of the reloading equipment
I use a hand press, set of Lee dies and a digital set of scales with powder measure, a primer pocket reamer (as primer depth can be a bit shallow using original Hornaday brass) oh and some lube. It can be as cheap as you make it or as expensive, a lot of stuff can be bought 2nd hand if you keep your eyes open. But I think if I went out and bought everything brand new it would cost circa £250-400
I get some of my stuff from these two
https://www.1967spud.com
http://www.henrykrank.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=164
Get someone else to do it! Should not have to damage finish to thread it.Has anyone got a rifle threaded for a moderator/brake?
My RFD tells me he can get it done on a lathe for me, but that the barrel will have to be clamped in metal jaws, and they may leave marks on the high finish. I asked could paper or cloth or something be placed on the teeth, but he said no, if it slips its obviously bolloxed.
Any ideas? Can't decide if it's worth the risk.
Has anyone got a rifle threaded for a moderator/brake?
My RFD tells me he can get it done on a lathe for me, but that the barrel will have to be clamped in metal jaws, and they may leave marks on the high finish. I asked could paper or cloth or something be placed on the teeth, but he said no, if it slips its obviously bolloxed.
Any ideas? Can't decide if it's worth the risk.
I have a mate visiting today from NI who is in a few gun clubs, will ask him.Northern Ireland is a small place. I'm really not sure how many proper gunsmiths there'd be! I certainly don't know of any. But, yes, I'll ask around a bit more.
He is other side Belfast/Newtownards area, but will ask anyway.Thanks. Preferably Co Antrim or east Londonderry in terms of handiness.
There are plenty of forums on reloading and also plenty of charts re loads/powders/bullet weights. I normally start of low re powders, make 5 rounds up and then do another 5 with a slightly higher charge and on on almost up to max. I have found that loading up to max isn't all it's cracked up to be, sticky bolts and holed primers (have never had these happen) and normally my loads are mid to upper in the range of loads, you'll know what's right as the rifle will tell you re accuracy. The actually loading process does not take that long, I do 100 at a time and from start to finish it would prob take a couple of hours which is fine on a cold wet winter's evening.Interesting. Do you or did you spend much time finding your best load? That would be my biggest concern getting into reloading, finding time at the moment can be a challenge.