AgOpenGPS RTK Autosteer, How to Guide for £1000

andyinv

Member
How are you guys bench testing your boards? I have the AIO GPS+Steering ECU V2.4 board. I flashed the teensy with firmware "autosteer_sps_teensy_v4_1.ino.hex" and have a green led, no middle led, and a red led lit. I hooked up the WAS to pins 1, 2, and 3 from the ampseal diagram but not sure if that is correct as I do not see any change via the AOG software.
I built this - takes a couple of potentiometers (one for WAS and one for pressure feedback) to test:

The idea being it would be easy to hook up a small motor for testing, there's a functional CANBUS on it and it makes life simple just to hook bits up quickly and test stuff.

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YoungFarmer23

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Norfolk
Hi, I’m currently trying to test my setup on a bench and I’m having a bit of trouble with my WAS, I’m not sure it’s working properly because on AOG it’s saying it’s stuck at 30 degrees when I move it. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if they could help me ?
Thank you
 

andyinv

Member
Hi, I’m currently trying to test my setup on a bench and I’m having a bit of trouble with my WAS, I’m not sure it’s working properly because on AOG it’s saying it’s stuck at 30 degrees when I move it. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if they could help me ?
Thank you
Some photos, and info on how you have it wired would be a good start :)
 

Andy26

Moderator
Arable Farmer
Location
Northants
Well I’ve been talking to @Andy26 about it as he made the wiring harness for me and it seems like it’s wired properly (all to the correct pins) so I‘m just a bit stumped on what it could be apart from the WAS being faulty.
You need to check the red wire on the WAS plug is outputting 5v, if it is, then open up the PCB and put the multimeter red probe on pin 2 and black on pin 4 they're labelled on the top of the PCB.

With the wheel angle sensor arm at right angles to its plug, you should get 2.5v or -2.5v or close to that, move the arm a little and retest the voltage should vary.
 

andyinv

Member
My Keya CANBUS code in action here, made it all the way over to Australia! Ryan took it and used with a UM982 instead of the usual F9P to create this, and it holds the line well eh? Can any factory system beat that?
 

Andy26

Moderator
Arable Farmer
Location
Northants
My Keya CANBUS code in action here, made it all the way over to Australia! Ryan took it and used with a UM982 instead of the usual F9P to create this, and it holds the line well eh? Can any factory system beat that?
Looks to be very smooth and keeping to the line very well, judging by distance off line.

4 wires, to Keya wheel that's it?
 

Larel

Member
I think that’s the bottom end complete. Connect the terminals on the ampseal plug in the cab, fuse it up and should be ready for a trial.
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aidan

Member
Location
Ireland
You need to check the red wire on the WAS plug is outputting 5v, if it is, then open up the PCB and put the multimeter red probe on pin 2 and black on pin 4 they're labelled on the top of the PCB.

With the wheel angle sensor arm at right angles to its plug, you should get 2.5v or -2.5v or close to that, move the arm a little and retest the voltage should vary.
The WAS or wheel angle sensor that everyone uses

How come it's a sensor that feeds back voltage based on angle, industry uses 4-20 mamp

More curiosity I'm asking out of as won't be going that far with my setup
 

andyinv

Member
The WAS or wheel angle sensor that everyone uses

How come it's a sensor that feeds back voltage based on angle, industry uses 4-20 mamp

More curiosity I'm asking out of as won't be going that far with my setup
Have never seen one that does current - the Claas, Case and MF ones I've looked at directly are 5V varying voltage.
 

Andy26

Moderator
Arable Farmer
Location
Northants
Have never seen one that does current - the Claas, Case and MF ones I've looked at directly are 5V varying voltage.
Same all been 5V type.

I'm sure there are some that use 4-20ma.

Works great with the 5v ones and if the OEM with the biggest R and D budget is happy with 5v WAS i think that's good enough.

Current type possibly less interference and could tell you when it's fallen off.
 

clbarclay

Member
Location
Worcestershire
Most of the rotary position sensors listed for sale from places like digi-key and mouser are analogue voltage output, but the datasheets list analogue current and PWM alternatives. They just don't stock as many of those varients as they do analogue voltage. I guess industries using analogue current output sensors generally aren't buy the odd sensor at a time from online retailers.

Analogue voltage works well enough and we have a pretty good choice different sensors readily available, including parts for cars.
 
Location
North
It isn't always obvious if the WAS has voltage or current output. Fendt has a current ouput sensor but if you measure the signal pin, you observe voltage output. That is because the receiving control box has a series resistor to ground which converts the current signal into a voltage signal.

For testing purposes one can disconnect the WAS signal wire and measure the current with a multimeter. Should give 6 mA at full left turn, 18 mA at full right turn. The signal pin connected, a multimeter in DC voltage gives 1.2 V/3.7 V respectively.
 

Larel

Member
Everything is now connected up and had a play today, helped by a mate. Not steering yet, but as far as I can see I haven’t blown up anything………
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