Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
Last edited:
Any ideas for improving a TS 59 plough for match ploughig
- Thread starter Petetheploughman
- Start date
wilt434
Member
- Location
- North Wales
Kverneland skimmers, one piece disc clamps and use the late type discs as found on the ts90 etc. On my plough i have also lengthen the bottom of the disc stalk so that I can drop it down without slackening the top bolt and changing the anangle setting. As for the frame personally I would leave as is but many have adapted them to make adjustments easyer. Like @Tonym has done to his plough.
Boohoo
Member
- Location
- Newtownabbey
What bodies are on it?
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
YL 183's
Mydexta
Member
- Location
- Dundee/angus
Stretch the frame and narrow the headstock to allow more movement over the cross shaft
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
Sent it to me, and I will send you it back and it will then plough
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
Is it quite difficult to narrow the headstock because wouldn't it be difficult to weld it back together and still keep the plough straight and square.
Mydexta
Member
- Location
- Dundee/angus
Not difficult to narrow it.
If looking from the front you want to remove everything on the right hand side of the main frame.
The stay from the top link bracket can be replaced with a straight bar down to the main frame, you might need some Spacers to keep it all straight.
The cross shaft bracket will bolt directly to the frame.
Biggest problem
Would be the wheel bracket
If looking from the front you want to remove everything on the right hand side of the main frame.
The stay from the top link bracket can be replaced with a straight bar down to the main frame, you might need some Spacers to keep it all straight.
The cross shaft bracket will bolt directly to the frame.
Biggest problem
Would be the wheel bracket
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
Any more ideas?
Mydexta
Member
- Location
- Dundee/angus
Here are some photos showing my mods and you may spot a few remnants of failed or discarded attempts. The most successful mods in no particular order are:-
Adjustable wheel with centre marker
Winding cross shaft from the seat, with indicator
Narrow frame giving full adjustment of cross shaft
Ford skimmers with custom arms
Custom rear landside (no thick heal)
Countersunk screws in disc
Weight carrier to right. Counterbalances wheel when not at depth and stresses linkage in one direction( clockwise) *
Marker scales on all adjustments including top link and lift rods on tractor.
Wheel mounting moved rearwards
Frame lengthened 4" between bodies
Front furrow leg adjustable up 1" (drill leg not frame)
Quick change rear disc with lynch pin
People often ask about the welding on the shins of mouldboards. On any hedgerow plough which has been operated by your average numpty the shins are worm because they cannot set ploughs. I weld 1/4" rod up the front and after several seasons it shows no signs of wear, proving that no appreciable wear is necessary. I include a pic of my disc width checking tool. I must stop now as the website may crash
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massey765
Member
- Location
- nr clitheroe lancs
how do you go on with your " ins" with lengthening your frame ? i lengthened mine by about 5" and my "outs" are ok but find the back furrow on the "ins" is ploughing to soon if you see what i meen
I tried a folding leg on the back and in theory it should have held the back body out for another 4-5" of travel. I`m not convinced it made much difference. I lengthened the slot in my top link to give more pitch , weights on the right help to get the front in and the golden rule is only travel about 2 feet before lifting and resetting the top link. I lift mine when the depth wheel, which is level with the rear share point, crosses the mark. I drop the plough with the front point on the mark.
Going back to the weights, if you stand the plough with no weights on a concrete floor and raise the depth wheel the plough has a strong tendency to fall to the left thus taking pressure off the front furrow. When the plough is at full depth and the wheel on the ground this does not apply.
Going back to the weights, if you stand the plough with no weights on a concrete floor and raise the depth wheel the plough has a strong tendency to fall to the left thus taking pressure off the front furrow. When the plough is at full depth and the wheel on the ground this does not apply.
I threatened to post a picture of my disc width setting guide but fouled up. Here it is, a piece of 40mm box attached to an appropriate length of flat bar. When the plough is in work hold firmly against the leg and point towards the back of the disc. It gives a guide to the width of disc setting and indicates whether or not both discs are the same.
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massey765
Member
- Location
- nr clitheroe lancs
the axle on my depth wheel is in line with the back point.......if i had it between the 2 points , when you drop in would it pivot on the wheel raising the back as the front went in ?
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
the plough has to be in to full depth before the wheel touches the ground to do that, or is yours different ?
Precisely as Penine describes. What you describe is what happens when the plough is carried by a central wheel at working depth. The plough rocks back and forth and as the front comes up 1/2" the back goes down and vice versa thus doubling the effect and creating a 1" difference between furrows. The rearward wheel keeps constant positive pressure on the top link. If anybody doesn`t believe this just keep your hand on the top link while ploughing with a central wheeled plough.
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
Have you got any pictures?