Bateman sprayer query

[CORK]

A friend of mine runs a Bateman SP sprayer. I think it’s an RB16. He’s had a couple of cases of glyphosate contamination when spraying cereals, it resulted in crop damage. He would be thorough enough in terms of washout although he has never used the clean water tank.

The sprayer would be 10-15 years old at this stage. Are there any particular parts of the sprayer that he should look at to locate the issue causing the contamination?

 

[Fish]

Has it recirculating booms ?
If not, it might be Chem trapped in the dead ends.

 

[CORK]

Has it recirculating booms ?
If not, it might be Chem trapped in the dead ends.

It has recirculation as far as I know

 

[HarryB97]

Using the clean water tank would help a lot, 2-3 small rinses rather than one big one.

 

[CORK]

Using the clean water tank would help a lot, 2-3 small rinses rather than one big one.

He is actually a little suspicious of the clean water tank. Is there any way that chemical can get into the clean water tank from the main tank?
The reason he is suspicious of the clean water tank is that in one instance the amount of damage done would be hard to explain by just some chemical in a hose. That said a small amount of glyphosate could be quite damaging to a young cereal crop.

 

[RAF]

How’s he filling it ? With a hose pipe or the pump

 

[stroller]

Is the fibre glass inside the tank de laminating trapping spray which then leaks out?

 

[Al R]

I would say dead ends or filters maybe? Going from SU’s onto delicate crops like beet a full tank wash would take me 7-8 hours and then I’d still go and do a fungicide on a cereal crop before going near going or delicate crops. I’ve seen how some people say they tankwash by just putting a few hundred litres of water through, not totally stripping down every filter, low pipe, scrubbing the inside of the tank etc..

 

[alomy75]

I would say dead ends or filters maybe? Going from SU’s onto delicate crops like beet a full tank wash would take me 7-8 hours and then I’d still go and do a fungicide on a cereal crop before going near going or delicate crops. I’ve seen how some people say they tankwash by just putting a few hundred litres of water through, not totally stripping down every filter, low pipe, scrubbing the inside of the tank etc..

8 hours seems a little excessive but it’s a good shout to go fungicide first. All-clear works quite well if used correctly. Has your sprayer not got flushing filters? There should be no need to remove them every single time you spray something sensitive. Clean water tank after dodgy stuff inc flushing filters; all-clear plus clean water tank and flushing filters then spray something fairly safe (plus clean water tank) should be more than ample in most instances I’d say.

 

[Badshot]

It has been known for the main tank and clean water tank wall to split allowing contamination.
Should be easy enough to check, pump the clean tank dry, fill the main tank and leave for a day or two.
Soon see if it seeps through.

 

[oakleaf]

Not using the clean water tank seems an odd decision to me.
One can do the first rinse immediately after the spray is applied then return to water source for subsequent rinses.
I do 5 after RU.
That’s with a trailed.
Know nothing about Batemans though.

 

[CORK]

Is the fibre glass inside the tank de laminating trapping spray which then leaks out?

It’s actually a stainless tank but good suggestion.

 

[CORK]

It has been known for the main tank and clean water tank wall to split allowing contamination.
Should be easy enough to check, pump the clean tank dry, fill the main tank and leave for a day or two.
Soon see if it seeps through.

Have you heard of this happen in a fibreglass tank or in stainless?

 

[SilliamWhale]

I would say dead ends or filters maybe? Going from SU’s onto delicate crops like beet a full tank wash would take me 7-8 hours and then I’d still go and do a fungicide on a cereal crop before going near going or delicate crops. I’ve seen how some people say they tankwash by just putting a few hundred litres of water through, not totally stripping down every filter, low pipe, scrubbing the inside of the tank etc..

8 fecking hours?

All I've ever done after any chemical is two clean water rinses

 

[Badshot]

Have you heard of this happen in a fibreglass tank or in stainless?

Fibreglass, I know of a tank being swapped, although that could have been a Hilo.
If the clean tank is left full and it freezes it can split internally.

 

[TheEarlOfMoray]

It has been known for the main tank and clean water tank wall to split allowing contamination.
Should be easy enough to check, pump the clean tank dry, fill the main tank and leave for a day or two.
Soon see if it seeps through.

Yes this happened on my rb35. Had to get it welded up.

 

[CORK]

Yes this happened on my rb35. Had to get it welded up.

I assume yours was a steel tank when you say it was welded?

 

[Chae1]

My landquip stainless steel tank split too.

 

[eagleye]

you can flush booms, my rb25 has 4 taps just over rear left back mudguard with quick release coupling which returns to tank. if you take off the quick release and open taps it will flush out (into a biobed of course), could also check induction hopper and pipework.
I had a problem with glyphosate froth or foam staying in the tank and causing contamination, power washed out after now.

 

[Al R]

8 fecking hours?

All I've ever done after any chemical is two clean water rinses

Depends how delicate the other crops are. To be fair I’d always do a fungicide and a liquid N treatment between anything very nasty and a delicate crop. Some sprayers took 2 hours but 1 I worked with was an trailled Amazon with the booms on the back, there were way to many places for SU to sit. When you’ve burnt off a fair acreage of foot high beet you don’t want to do it again so you take a far more cautious approach