Buying concrete tamp

Turra farmer

Never Forgotten
Honorary Member
Magiscreed and one of those beeps theodolite levelling things when you are rough levelling brill makes the job a lot easier!!!!!
MidiScreed200_Studio.png

Lay concrete with laser and then go over it with this and then a big blue a hour or so later ,
 

gorgous

Member
Location
Bucks
Another vote for speedcrete. If you get it delivered check it is still straight before signing for it. Last one I bought took 3 deliveries before I got a straight one tnt are crap.
 

Hotbed

Member
I’ve worked for a guy who uses a vibrating beam, to be honest, if you want to just fu@k it in there and don’t mind the finish then use one of these, they bring too much fat to the surface and leave ridges, and if you use a volumetric that’s got blended cement (as most do) you’ll find the water comes to the top and washes away the cement, leaving a dusty porous top, even our power floaters won’t use one or volumetric lorries.
Get it in level with a laser and an Aluminium straight beam then use a big blue, if you need a non slip surface then go over afterwards with a steel brush, but you need a good mix of concrete for the brush effect to stay.
If you use a good concrete firm with barrel mix lorries, ask for a straight OPC mix no blends.
Good Luck
 

paddy1001

Member
Location
Kilkeel, NI
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SURFACE-...064408?hash=item48aa22fa98:g:T30AAOSwUwhaom8j

Going to get a power screed like the above link, what would be a good sized tamp
You can get them in 8ft,10ft or 12ft lenght
Will be concreting 15ft and 20ft shed bays and quite a bit of out side yard


For the floor above we had the 16ft edge on the screed, for what you are doing probably the 12 will do, if your yards have lots of different gradients and falls in different directions around drains etc then sometimes the 8 foot edge would be easier to use.

The secret I find with the screed is the concrete slump and a good eye on the rake.
 

paddy1001

Member
Location
Kilkeel, NI
@paddy1001 are those shuttered wall as that is going to be my next thread "idiots guide to shuttered walling"

They are shuttered but it is something we don't currently do, we hire people in to do it for us. When we priced this job we priced building the shed and plastering it vs shuttering it, the shuttering was a good margin cheaper and is a far far better job.
We priced hiring the pans to do the work ourselves vs our usual shuttering contractor and we could not come close to his price either.
 

paddy1001

Member
Location
Kilkeel, NI
Is there any boards your running off there or does it just float? How do you get the level right if you do just float

We chalk line the walls and then drive pins into the floor with tape on them at the same height as the chalk lines, we rake the concrete to the pin levels and the chalk lines then pull the pins out as we screed

6597801D-1847-4B02-91C1-1E296BD7FE52.jpeg
 

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NH 200

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Ceredigion
For the floor above we had the 16ft edge on the screed, for what you are doing probably the 12 will do, if your yards have lots of different gradients and falls in different directions around drains etc then sometimes the 8 foot edge would be easier to use.

The secret I find with the screed is the concrete slump and a good eye on the rake.

Looking to hire an easi-screed for the farm road 150- 200mm thick slab with A252 mesh, what slump spec would you usually specify?
 

paddy1001

Member
Location
Kilkeel, NI
Looking to hire an easi-screed for the farm road 150- 200mm thick slab with A252 mesh, what slump spec would you usually specify?

We usually order 70 or 80 slump, that was 70 slump 40N in the photos.
As I said before the secret with the magic screed is to get it really good with the rake before you screed, you are only really wanting the magic screed to smooth the concrete and tamp it, you should have the levelling done beforehand.
If you are going to try to level the concrete with the screed then it will pull the back out of you and go into heights and hollows.
 

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