- Location
- Near Beeston Castle
Is it as simple as putting a diverted valve on (my tractor hasn’t got one) and are they just bolt on?
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3pt linkageIs it as simple as putting a diverted valve on (my tractor hasn’t got one) and are they just bolt on?
Has it not got a tipping pipe for a trailer?I’ve got the wheels and only lifting light stuff anyway so don’t need weights.
So will it work just by fitting a diverted valve?
Thank you, it has one pipe to one ram.if fork lift has 1 ram, a diverter would do, if fork lift has 2 rams a diverter and 3 bank spool would be best
You need to be able to use arms at same time to vary the tilt of the mast, do diverter needs to be a leverThank you, it has one pipe to one ram.
Am I right in thinking the diverter valve has two positions, one position allows only the arms to operate and the other only the ram. If so it will be what I’m after.
If that’s how they work then that will do and I can cope.a proper MF one has positions,
center position is arms and tipping pipe, will work the easiest option,
move to the left, and will lock arms, (but due to leaks will drop) and works tipping pipe,
move to the right, and it will keep correcting the leaky arms and keep to the top every time you lift hyd lever, and raise the fork lift, on lowering the leaver it will drop the fork lift, but not the arms, (leaks will let them down)
That is how they work,If that’s how they work then that will do and I can cope.
I’m very used to using one so know what to expect
Thanks
Be very careful with this. What you say is entirely correct but any load on the top link may vary the hydraulic flow dependant on draft lever neutral position.if you place the lever between the marks that will be the hold position,
If you move the lever forward an inch, or just so it's outside the marks it will drop the hydraulics, back to between the marks to hold, and move it backwards an inch just outside the marks will lift the hydraulics, once lifted to were you want to be , move back to between the marks for hold position,
You would have to move the dirvertor valve to select arms or tipping pipe as needed, and internal leaks could be a problem with dropping,
All of the above works like this ONLY if the hydraulic system is set up correctly,
Wear on the internal linkage and leaks may work like a bag of shite
So be wary of this
really speaking its a no gower from the offset, and is highly dangerous to put a forklift of this type on a 35,Be very careful with this. What you say is entirely correct but any load on the top link will vary the hydraulic flow.
Also the MF diverter valve, bolted to the top cover below your left leg, allows the links to rise when the hydraulics are pressurised, at least in one of its two diverting positions.
This would require a selector[diverter] valve to be used every time the control was changed from links to spool and vice-versa. Plus the draft control raised to provide external oil. It's a complete faff on these tractor models through to 100 series and even basic 200 series unless it is a multi-power with working auxiliary pump, which is unlikely.Could just buy a Tomlin type 3 point linkage set of forks, with a hydraulic top link to level the bin to put onto the bin tipper ( use a single acting ram, and use the trailer tipping pipe ). TBH, I can't see anyone coming to any harm moving 250 kg with the Ripvator as long as it still has its weight transfer wheels.
quite, why not just get a set of three point linkage pallet forksif your only moving it 10 yards, and only 2 foot high, why do you need the forklift part of it