Case cs150 power shift slipping

[KeithC]

Hi all
We have a 2004 Case cs150 with 12,500 hrs.
Few problems starting to accur

The 3rd powershift has started slipping pulling a load.
No fault code showing.
I have checked the solenoid's, all clips etc are good. I had to replace one of the solenoid's last year where a one of the clips broke and broke the lip of the solenoid aswel. I replaced all clips that time as a precaution.

I have a feeling it's in one of the packs but usually they throw a code I'm told.

Anyone have and other things to check?
Oil filters etc changed last year

The front suspension has astarted to acting up. When you turn it on after a while the suspension light starts flashing (3 short flash's and one longer one) I have a manual but can't find any info on the flash codes

And finally, we keep have to bleed the brakes. It empties the brake reservoir No physical leaks outside. It seems to be the left side thats the culprit as it has most air in it when bleeding them.

Lots of issues to get sorted before the baking etc starts

Thanks in advance

 

[daveydiesel1]

Possibly oil pump on its way out dropin pressure. Get her pressure tested. But at those hours id say shed need new clutch plates

 

[KeithC]

Ud imagine if it was oil pump she would do it in other gears aswel tho

 

[daveydiesel1]

Ud imagine if it was oil pump she would do it in other gears aswel tho

True. Id say as the clutch is slippin if it wasnt already destroyed it will be gettin that way. New plates shouldnt be 2 expensive but dont keep drivin her as youl only wreck more stuf with her slipin

 

[KeithC]

I'll probably rip it next week, get it sorted before it's needed. Only drawing a few bales over the winter.
Would I be aswel do the forward/reverse packs when I'm in that far and the hrs or just 1 to 4?

 

[bez]

Same gearbox as the Deutz agrotrons.
It’s the rivets in the clutch pack, when they warm up the oil will be getting past the rivers, making it feel like the clutch is slipping.

 

[KeithC]

Same gearbox as the Deutz agrotrons.
It’s the rivets in the clutch pack, when they warm up the oil will be getting past the rivers, making it feel like the clutch is slipping.

Does that mean complete new clutch packs or atleast a complete 3rd and maybe just discs in the other 3 providing the rivets etc look ok

 

[bez]

I genuinely can’t remember what was done. It would be 2004 when it happened to ours. The parts were covered under warranty but I had to pay the labour. Got it back and would do a 100 hours and then it turned out the new clutch pack was faulty!??‍?
I think they would have just changed the complete clutch pack. It was a common fault at the time. My neighbor had two cs130 that did the exact same thing.

 

[KeithC]

I genuinely can’t remember what was done. It would be 2004 when it happened to ours. The parts were covered under warranty but I had to pay the labour. Got it back and would do a 100 hours and then it turned out the new clutch pack was faulty!??‍?
I think they would have just changed the complete clutch pack. It was a common fault at the time. My neighbor had two cs130 that did the exact same thing.

Yeah have heard they have nearly all needed doing. Remember hearing 6-7k hrs was common. We only have this 2.5 years but know it from nearly new and know the previous owner very well ( I actually drove the tractor for him for a year or 2 at slurry back 10 odd years ago) he bought a cs130 around 2014 and had to do the box in it.

I'll be doing this myself so atleast won't have the big labour bill to pay

 

[Timbo]

Aware the OP is asking others what he could expect to find when he opens it up for surgery, but unless he's going to send her down the road soon after - its best to pretty much go right through the 'box replacing all the clutch packs frictions & steels, as well as all the synchros so it's effectively new after, not just the pack that's slipping. It's honestly cheaper in the long run to do it that way.

 

[daveydiesel1]

Aware the OP is asking others what he could expect to find when he opens it up for surgery, but unless he's going to send her down the road soon after - its best to pretty much go right through the 'box replacing all the clutch packs frictions & steels, as well as all the synchros so it's effectively new after, not just the pack that's slipping. It's honestly cheaper in the long run to do it that way.

Unlesss ther destroyed the steels wont need replaced

 

[Timbo]

Unlesss ther destroyed the steels wont need replaced

If she's been slipping enough for driver to notice, the steels will be blued if not warped.

 

[KeithC]

If anything looks worn or iffy it will be getting replaced. Tractor ain't going anywhere so want it right.

I'll let yew know how I get on when I open her up