Class 46 Rollant.

[Tha Ulsterscot]

Having a slight problem with my baler. When I pressurise the back door to start baling, the gauge should go up to the red, busser sound, and then fall back slightly into the green and stop busser, but what happens now, the gauge falls straight back down and the Hydraulic pressure is not maintained. I've discovered that if I open and close the doo fully several tines before doing any baling it starts to work normally, but would still lose the pressure occasionally 1/2 way through a bale. Is the relief valve on the counter side of the baler prone to give trouble or could it be something else? I've already swapped to another spool valve on the tractor but it was just the same.

 

[alan6920]

Seals in back door rams can sometimes give trouble

 

[Tha Ulsterscot]

When I lift the door up full it would stay up for a week

 

[Dave W]

From memory there is some sort valve on the back of the drawbar under the pto gearbox that retains pressure in the baler side of the hydraulic system.

 

[JD-Kid]

used to have one but never had that prob .. would sound like valve stuck or spring broken not holding the psi on the closed side

know the 250's had probs holding the door shut and the 255 had a recharge system in them but once it's recharged a few times in light going the psi drops away did not have that prob with the 46 tho unless very light crops and takeing a long time to fill

i'm trying to think mine on shutting the door would not go to the red and sat around mid green baleing just touching the red as the door opened before net wrap applyed ... sounds like there could be some thing in the valve O ring buggered etc etc

door seals maybe but would do it all the time mind you more PSI during baleing than holding a door open

 

[David.]

It's the needle going into the red on closing door that is throwing me, because ours only pressurises halfway up the green when you shut the door, and then pressure builds as bale forms and when needle goes into red the beeper sounds and bale is ready to wrap , or maybe further 5 seconds max, before door starts to crack open.

 

[JD-Kid]

It's the needle going into the red on closing door that is throwing me, because ours only pressurises halfway up the green when you shut the door, and then pressure builds as bale forms and when needle goes into red the beeper sounds and bale is ready to wrap , or maybe further 5 seconds max, before door starts to crack open.

thats what i thought but been years ago since had a 46

 

[Tha Ulsterscot]

Thanks Lads, I think it must be something to do with the valve on the counter side, but I only have another hundred bales or thereabouts to finish, so will have time to sort her out before next season.

 

[JD-Kid]

recall claas guy out here taking the valve out to check it ,damm hard to find a spring when it flys across the paddock .. might be a wee heads up before yer undo it

 

[Angus]

Is there any way to increase the density of bales out of a 46, ours are not very dense compared to our neighbours Welger? Sorry for hijacking this thread. TIA Angus.

 

[multi power]

Is there any way to increase the density of bales out of a 46, ours are not very dense compared to our neighbours Welger? Sorry for hijacking this thread. TIA Angus.

just keep driving a bit longer before netting them,

 

[JD-Kid]

lighter rows and driveing a tad longer after the bell

 

[gone up the hill]

Thanks Lads, I think it must be something to do with the valve on the counter side, but I only have another hundred bales or thereabouts to finish, so will have time to sort her out before next season.

I can tell you 100% that its the valve on the side !! its a common fault with 46 balers, it is still pressuring okay ( even thou it appears it isn't ) so hence I wouldn't do anything about it and drive on, ( which is what I have always done and iv baled more bales with a 46 than most people and have always had this problem on the balers ...) the valves are about £1200 from memory when I asked a couple of years ago..

Only way to cure it is buy a new one.. but that is a complete waste of money..

 

[David.]

Is there any way to increase the density of bales out of a 46, ours are not very dense compared to our neighbours Welger? Sorry for hijacking this thread. TIA Angus.

Not done it, but I recall a thread where 46 bale density was discussed, mechanic known to Claas said there is the pressure relief valve under a cap on the valve block, locked with a seal, which is tensioned by the addition of very thin spacers in the cap, to increase load on the valve spring.

 

[Tha Ulsterscot]

I can tell you 100% that its the valve on the side !! its a common fault with 46 balers, it is still pressuring okay ( even thou it appears it isn't ) so hence I wouldn't do anything about it and drive on, ( which is what I have always done and iv baled more bales with a 46 than most people and have always had this problem on the balers ...) the valves are about £1200 from memory when I asked a couple of years ago..

Only way to cure it is buy a new one.. but that is a complete waste of money..

I don't think it is holding the pressure, as the door will start to lift if you bale on without re-pressurising with the spool valve.

 

[gone up the hill]

I don't think it is holding the pressure, as the door will start to lift if you bale on without re-pressurising with the spool valve.

At what point after you have started baling will the door start to open?? ( ie : straight away or when the chamber is nearly full?? ) iv baled over 100.000 + bales with a 46 so have come across nearly every prob at some point that you can get with them !!

 

[Goweresque]

Dare I say that there was a thread on exactly the same issue last year on the 'other place'? With some helpful advice as well. I'd better not post a link, but if you searched for 'Claas rollant 46 baler' there you'd soon find the thread.

 

[Tha Ulsterscot]

When the chamber is nearly filled, the door will rise, instead of building the pressure.

 

[highland-man]

The thread on a 46 losing pressure last year on "the other place" was me.

Here is a copy n paste of what fixed ours:

Hey everyone , a wee update as i have just put the baler back together.

The problem is now fixed , we actually had 2 malfunctions causing this to happen which made it take a while to solve !

First off , our 2 door rams have a valve sticking out the bottom off both of them. I took these and cleaned these out at the start of the problem appearing ( at the same time as replacing all hydraulic ram seals ) and they seemed to be ok ( could easily blow through one end with airline and not back the other way ) it turns out that one was in fact "giving" under oil pressure as a spring inside one was cracked ! We replaced the spring ( Claas wanted 220ish +VAT for the whole valve which is tiny and stupidly over-priced ) .

This greatly improved the pressure , probably doubling how long it was taking the pressure gauge to drop but it was still far to fast compared to how the baler would normally function.

Fearing the worst , it was time to remove the valve block ( which is basically 1k to replace

) . We took it to a local engineer who did the previously mentioned method of re-seating the valve with engine grinding paste and this did the trick !

The baler is back together and although i have not yet tried her out in action she is keeping the pressure on the gauge how it should. Hopefully it should no longer allow the door to open with only 2/3 of a bale like it had started to do !

Thank you all very much for your input and hopefully anyone else who encounters something similar will now know what to look for if they didn't already!

 

[Tha Ulsterscot]

Thanks highland man, that answers a lot of questions, and if I had a dozen more bales made towards the end of the week I'll get the valve block off. From memory I don't think there are any valves on my rams, but will look as soon as I go out. Did you get the spring from a Class dealer or fit one from elsewhere?