Diy Bolt down shed questions

mixed breed

Member
Mixed Farmer
Best are holding down bolts with Wax cones, set them in once the foundation cubes are poured, they give you a bit of wiggle room afterwards to set the uprights in tidy.

Alternativly, but more of a faff, let your foundations cure, drill holes and glue threaded bar in.

I used the latter on a small shed I made, bolted frames together on the ground, lifted them up, then drilled and fixed them down one at a time. I was on my own and it worked quite well.
 

sh40

Member
Best are holding down bolts with Wax cones, set them in once the foundation cubes are poured, they give you a bit of wiggle room afterwards to set the uprights in tidy.

Alternativly, but more of a faff, let your foundations cure, drill holes and glue threaded bar in.

I used the latter on a small shed I made, bolted frames together on the ground, lifted them up, then drilled and fixed them down one at a time. I was on my own and it worked quite well.
The area is already concreted where I intend to put the shed down on.
 

mixed breed

Member
Mixed Farmer
Drilling and gluing will work in these situations but i wouldn't imagine your going to get away with bolting the shed in your link to an existing slab, as I doubt it will be thick or strong enough. Generally it's a case of cutting a square out where every post is to be digging a hole in and pouring a good cube of concrete to anchor the posts to.
 
As said, bolting a shed to an existing slab is unlikely to be strong enough, I have just put a similar size shed up and dug holes 3ft square about 2ft deep in good firm ground and used the bolts in cones as supplied with the kit building, used approx 4.5 m3 of concrete.
Bolted the legs as uprights to the ground then bolted the two halves of the rafters together on the ground , lifted and bolted to the legs.
8CE8E9D9-8D43-431A-BA17-E1F3C304F04F.jpeg

The above building, 29X45 plus 5ft overhang one side, frame, all bolts, timbers, plastic coated sheets and gutters/down pipes was over £1k cheaper than the one in the link above collected.
 

sh40

Member
As said, bolting a shed to an existing slab is unlikely to be strong enough, I have just put a similar size shed up and dug holes 3ft square about 2ft deep in good firm ground and used the bolts in cones as supplied with the kit building, used approx 4.5 m3 of concrete.
Bolted the legs as uprights to the ground then bolted the two halves of the rafters together on the ground , lifted and bolted to the legs.
8CE8E9D9-8D43-431A-BA17-E1F3C304F04F.jpeg

The above building, 29X45 plus 5ft overhang one side, frame, all bolts, timbers, plastic coated sheets and gutters/down pipes was over £1k cheaper than the one in the link above collected.
Thanks for this advice. Will be easy enough to cut out the squares in the concrete and put in the concrete pads. Can I ask you what strength concrete did you put in and what rabar did you use in the pad.
 
Thanks for this advice. Will be easy enough to cut out the squares in the concrete and put in the concrete pads. Can I ask you what strength concrete did you put in and what rabar did you use in the pad.
No rebar in pad, never have for any shed put up here.
Concrete was rc40 but we upped spec a bit at last minute as we wanted to get frame up on a particular day but digger trouble when we were concreting the pads put us back a day
 

sh40

Member
No rebar in pad, never have for any shed put up here.
Concrete was rc40 but we upped spec a bit at last minute as we wanted to get frame up on a particular day but digger trouble when we were concreting the pads put us back a day
What height is it to the eves in the shed your putting up there.
 
C35 concrete for your bases and foundation dimension of circa 1m x 1m x 600mm deep should suffice for what you are doing in example size so not a big task to rip out. Watch with these cheap kits that they are braced right, had a 60 x 30 that only had roof bracing would sway a bit in wind, added column bracing to 1 bay and removed sway (length of box section between leg bolt and haunch between frames so not much expense).

Best way to erect would be to get legs installed and held together by eaves beams (this is where column bracing helps immensely) then lift on rafters which can be bolted together on deck before hand.
 

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