DIY UPVC Door Install

[aidan]

I have to fit a UPVC Door into a cavity wall in a shed. Its a cavity wall built with 2 X 4" blocks, spaced 3-4" apart rather than a wall built from cavity blocks. The walls were built 40years ago and a timber door installed the frame of the door cloing the cavity. Timber door frame is well rotten. The space which was left in the blockwork is 7ft 1" high and 3ft wide, 3-4" cavity. When the doorway was plastered up the remaining gap is 7ft high X 3ft wide. Its nice and square. Lintel in place overhead.

It will be a Second Hand door I am interested in buying if anyone has anything lying around. I want one that opens outwards. Anyone a good source for such a door.

I was wondering what size of door should I be on the look out for here.

It would be quite easy if it was into a solid wall, get a door as follows 6ft 11.5" high and 2ft 11.5 wide and put screws into the solid wall sides.

 

[JWL]

Go and have a word with one or two of your local door, window and conservatory companies. They are constantly replacing UPVC doors and windows for people who have more money than sense and bring back the originals to chuck in the skip.
I have a mate who works for a local company and had a couple of near enough new doors and windows for the cost of a drink. The mark up on conservatories is immense, he has an 80% staff discount! So the next time you want a new conservatory bargain that bit harder

 

[Bongodog]

7 x 3 is a bit of an odd size domestic doors are usually 6'6" high x 2'6" You will struggle to find anything 2nd hand.

 

[robs1]

Just use some 6 by 2 timber to fill the gap and use cover strips to make it look the same as the door. Most doors are held in with squirt foam these days

 

[Wurzeetoo]

As above. Put some blocks of timber in the cavity and use some wooden wedges to get them tight enough not to fall out while fitting. Squirt around with some good quality expanding foam such as sx siroflex when the doors in. Next day cut back foam and trim/silicone up jobs a good un

 

[aidan]

7 x 3 is a bit of an odd size domestic doors are usually 6'6" high x 2'6" You will struggle to find anything 2nd hand.

Door way was sized 44years ago

 

[Ffermer Bach]

Just use some 6 by 2 timber to fill the gap and use cover strips to make it look the same as the door. Most doors are held in with squirt foam these days

I remember one of the apprentices in college asking the tutor "when we fit a window for assessment in the rigs why can't we use expanding foam?"

 

[aidan]

Just use some 6 by 2 timber to fill the gap and use cover strips to make it look the same as the door. Most doors are held in with squirt foam these days

As above. Put some blocks of timber in the cavity and use some wooden wedges to get them tight enough not to fall out while fitting. Squirt around with some good quality expanding foam such as sx siroflex when the doors in. Next day cut back foam and trim/silicone up jobs a good un

Thanks, whats the usual procedure for the bottom, of the door ? Ill make sure to make that part of it waterproof when Im going to the bother of the job.

Is it dig out the existing concrete with my 10kg Demolition Hammer, and put in the new door frame with some DPC underneath the door, sinking the frame 1-1.5" into the concrete ?

 

[robs1]

Thanks, whats the usual procedure for the bottom, of the door ? Ill make sure to make that part of it waterproof when Im going to the bother of the job.

Is it dig out the existing concrete with my 10kg Demolition Hammer, and put in the new door frame with some DPC underneath the door, sinking the frame 1-1.5" into the concrete ?

Just make sure the door sill is higher than the finished out side level, I use a strip of dpc under the sill, the last two I fitted had very thin sill/threshold so wheelchairs can go over them, so finished levels need to be accurate

 

[milkloss]

If it's going to get plenty of use just make sure it's well attached. Nothing worse than a pvc door that starts to rattle its own frame loose.

 

[harrow]

I have to fit a UPVC Door into a cavity wall in a shed. Its a cavity wall built with 2 X 4" blocks, spaced 3-4" apart rather than a wall built from cavity blocks. The walls were built 40years ago and a timber door installed the frame of the door cloing the cavity. Timber door frame is well rotten. The space which was left in the blockwork is 7ft 1" high and 3ft wide, 3-4" cavity. When the doorway was plastered up the remaining gap is 7ft high X 3ft wide. Its nice and square. Lintel in place overhead.

It will be a Second Hand door I am interested in buying if anyone has anything lying around. I want one that opens outwards. Anyone a good source for such a door.

I was wondering what size of door should I be on the look out for here.

It would be quite easy if it was into a solid wall, get a door as follows 6ft 11.5" high and 2ft 11.5 wide and put screws into the solid wall sides.

As others have said try double glazing companies and try watching freecycle or place a wanted ad.

 

[aidan]

Just make sure the door sill is higher than the finished out side level, I use a strip of dpc under the sill, the last two I fitted had very thin sill/threshold so wheelchairs can go over them, so finished levels need to be accurate

Floor of the room and the concrete outside are perfectly level, hence I was thinking of breaking up the concrete and sinking the frame into the new concrete.

 

[Bongodog]

Why are you determined to get a 2nd hand door ?. There are plenty of suppliers who will make you a new one to the exact size you need for less than £400 inc VAT. A 2nd hand one will be someone elses cast off with part worn hinges, probably a key or two missing, holes drilled in the frame in the wrong places for you etc. I wouldn't waste a days work fitting a 2nd hand door to save a small amount of money.
As to sealing to the ground, get one with a low threshold (far better as nothing to trip over) and put a good quality sealant under it to bond to the level concrete

Fit door to outer leaf of wall and then close off cavity separately

 

[Exfarmer]

Why are you determined to get a 2nd hand door ?. There are plenty of suppliers who will make you a new one to the exact size you need for less than £400 inc VAT. A 2nd hand one will be someone elses cast off with part worn hinges, probably a key or two missing, holes drilled in the frame in the wrong places for you etc. I wouldn't waste a days work fitting a 2nd hand door to save a small amount of money.
As to sealing to the ground, get one with a low threshold (far better as nothing to trip over) and put a good quality sealant under it to bond to the level concrete

Fit door to outer leaf of wall and then close off cavity separately

This is a farming forum, all members are duty bound to try and get the very cheapest fix possible. Until we get to buying the latest green tractor, which is of course compulsory.
Do not reveal any of this information to our partners

 

[bobk]

Just use some 6 by 2 timber to fill the gap and use cover strips to make it look the same as the door. Most doors are held in with squirt foam these days

Masonary screws are better than a bit of squirt ime

 

[robs1]

Masonary screws are better than a bit of squirt ime

Yes totally agree, I fix doors with some wedges then squirty and when that's set and door fix I put two screws each side as I've found if I put the screws in without the squirty it's hard to keep the bloody thing tight without twisting the frame a bit. People love slamming doors so they need to be solid

 

[aidan]

Yes totally agree, I fix doors with some wedges then squirty and when that's set and door fix I put two screws each side as I've found if I put the screws in without the squirty it's hard to keep the bloody thing tight without twisting the frame a bit. People love slamming doors so they need to be solid

I agree

what type squirty you use

 

[robs1]

I agree

what type squirty you use

Any of them on a door probably one if the better makes.

 

[Robert K]

I have to fit a UPVC Door into a cavity wall in a shed. Its a cavity wall built with 2 X 4" blocks, spaced 3-4" apart rather than a wall built from cavity blocks. The walls were built 40years ago and a timber door installed the frame of the door cloing the cavity. Timber door frame is well rotten. The space which was left in the blockwork is 7ft 1" high and 3ft wide, 3-4" cavity. When the doorway was plastered up the remaining gap is 7ft high X 3ft wide. Its nice and square. Lintel in place overhead.

It will be a Second Hand door I am interested in buying if anyone has anything lying around. I want one that opens outwards. Anyone a good source for such a door.

I was wondering what size of door should I be on the look out for here.

It would be quite easy if it was into a solid wall, get a door as follows 6ft 11.5" high and 2ft 11.5 wide and put screws into the solid wall sides.

I've got a heavy duty steel door that might do your job.

Pm me