Dominator 98 Advice

zero

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Yorkshire coast
For those with mechanical drive, is the odd grind/ graunch getting into gear normal on these ?
Or does the clutch need adjusting / on it's way out ?
Ours used to give the odd graunch both before and after we changed the clutch. Gears do change smoother if you can get a bit of grease on the linkage selector rods outside the gearbox and inside the right hand console.
 

zero

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Yorkshire coast
Isn't it noticeable how stuff gets more and more complicated.
The 1960 MF780 I started out on had no plate clutch. You pressed the pedal down and as you did so it gradually reduced the variable pulley ratio until it slacked right off, lost grip and you stopped so it was a combined belt clutch/variable speed drive. A hand notched hand lever limited the travel of the clutch pedal and movement of the variable pulleys which gave you continuous ratio adjustment. It had a 3 speed gearbox. Beautifully simple.
Now it needs a full blown hydrostatic system for £k to do that same simple job. Maybe less wear on the knees but more on the shoulder and arms and makes my back ache surprisingly,
My JD1085 with gear lever in the back right hand corner of the cab is a real PITA to select reverse. Many reverse gears on those models were damaged including on ours due to only being half engaged. They improved the lever design on later 10 series models putting it at your right kneecap when sat in the seat. A big improvement.
Anyway I digress. Its a wet day.
Ordering a hand held tachometer to check some of those shaft speeds/ engine speed to see if I can suss out the intermitment shaft speed alarm. Truth be told it probably needs new bearings and walker blocks throughout as there is a bit of wobble here and there. A job for winter.
If you have some old sofa cushions to rest on and an air ratchet its a fairly easy job to unbolt the lower half of the straw walker woods and pack them with grease.
 

Flat 10

Member
Arable Farmer
Location
Fen Edge
Friend has a Dom 98 and is struggling with fuel issues. Been through several things (apologies if lacking on details but only had described over phone). Drained tank, changed fuel filter. Replaced pipe to lift pump from tank. Replaced lift pump. No better. What are the collectives thoughts? Missing something obvious? I should add all fuel drained seemed fairly clean. Thanks
 

carbonfibre farmer

Member
Arable Farmer
Friend has a Dom 98 and is struggling with fuel issues. Been through several things (apologies if lacking on details but only had described over phone). Drained tank, changed fuel filter. Replaced pipe to lift pump from tank. Replaced lift pump. No better. What are the collectives thoughts? Missing something obvious? I should add all fuel drained seemed fairly clean. Thanks
When you say fuel issues? Not running clean/ missing? Or fuels running back and won't start? Or neither of these?
 

glasshouse

Member
Location
lothians
Friend has a Dom 98 and is struggling with fuel issues. Been through several things (apologies if lacking on details but only had described over phone). Drained tank, changed fuel filter. Replaced pipe to lift pump from tank. Replaced lift pump. No better. What are the collectives thoughts? Missing something obvious? I should add all fuel drained seemed fairly clean. Thanks
What are the issues?
 

David.

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
J11 M40
The rubber ring washer that seals the glass filter bowl on the lift pump is probably shot, they react with diesel and go leaky.
The replacement filter and bowl and new washer comes as a kit complete, replace the lot every year.
 

zero

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Yorkshire coast
Some of them have a non return valve in the fuel line that can bung up. The banjo ontop of the diesel tank can clog. Or it could be the lift pump.
I have had a senator that had a similar problem but it turned out to be the rubber air intake pipes that were collapsing when they got warm and stopping air getting through.
 

David.

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
J11 M40
Good shout on the banjo on top the tank, once had a rape pod stuck in there cause all sorts of trouble.
The cure is to make up a big mesh filter that will just pass through the drain plug in the bottom of the tank, attach it to a suitable fitting and replumb, taking the fuel from the bottom, through a screw on primary filter, attached to the tank mount bracket. It is a much less messy job to replace this filter a couple of times a season, than to do the one in the engine box, which becomes almost redundant.
 

carbonfibre farmer

Member
Arable Farmer
Good shout on the banjo on top the tank, once had a rape pod stuck in there cause all sorts of trouble.
The cure is to make up a big mesh filter that will just pass through the drain plug in the bottom of the tank, attach it to a suitable fitting and replumb, taking the fuel from the bottom, through a screw on primary filter, attached to the tank mount bracket. It is a much less messy job to replace this filter a couple of times a season, than to do the one in the engine box, which becomes almost redundant.
We had exactly this on our 68.

Would rev up, do a bit, then "die"-no revs or power. Then clear itself and away for a bit. And repeat.

Took banjos off, top of the tank. Barley awns 🤦‍♂️ pretty sure the draw off pipe that goes down inside the tank had a fair bit in it too, from the banjo fitting down. (Been filled up with cans a time or two when dust flying about🤦‍♂️)
 

zero

Member
Mixed Farmer
Location
Yorkshire coast
Only other thing i can think of, is the throttle/stopper linkage all ok where it connects onto the injector pump and is the spring that keeps the stopper in the run position in place.
 

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