Getting out a steel bushing
- Thread starter sh40
- Start date
Weld round inside it will shrink the bush and then knock out.
Dave W
Member
- Location
- chesterfield
Get some round bar that slides in loosely then weld the bar to the bush. Decent tacks will do if it’s that thin. It should contact as it cools then knock them out
Amund
Member
- Location
- Sokna Norway
Chissel or YouTube
- Location
- Somerset
buy oxy propane. Well worth every penny. then buy a 4lb lump hammer. Your issues are solved.
Amund
Member
- Location
- Sokna Norway
If you have an old co fire extinguisher you can shrink them with cold
Answer got in 30 seconds. Thanks lads. I took bushings like this out before using method and it worked a treat. Just completely forgot I Did it that way until you jogged my memory.
This forum can be amazing
- Location
- Somerset
Still would HIGHLY reccomend you buy an oxy propane heating torch. The amount of times i've had a rusty pin stuck in somewhere or a bolt or whatever, tried heating with a blowtorch but not worked, heat it up with the oxy propane and its off in a couple of minutes. I've also used mine to melt out bushings from things if they really wont shift, not always on purpose but it does work. Just one of those tools I wouldn't be without now.
If you melt a bush out be careful not to touch the oxygen cutting lever or you will destroy the original hole where the bush goes.
- Location
- Somerset
Heat torch rather than cutting torch. so no oxygen lever.
Don't have such good equipment.
- Location
- Somerset
With the set I bought it was I think 40 or 50 quid for the heat torch. Just unscrew the cutting peice and screw on the heater peice. I only bought the cutting torch as I had one specific job I needed it for, havent touched it since as quite honestly it scares me! Can get all sorts of different tips for it too, different sizes for different amounts of heat. Mine is only the middle of the road and its plenty hot enough for most stuff. Obviously bigger = more gas used.
I must look into them. I think I'd need lessons on how to use it. I just always have the fear that it could be the bushing I want to cut out but end up destroying the housing with it or something
- Location
- Somerset
I expect you could get your local tame mechanic to show you how to use it if you're on good terms with him. Either that or your local welding shop might do
Lads since I'm on the topic I might ask for a few welding tips in general. I will need to weld a round bar on this bushing. I only have an arc welder.
What's a good tip for welding the bar onto this 3mm bushing using an arc ? I was thinking a 3.2mm for (since that's all I have atm) at 100 amps. And just do tak welds. As in weld a spot. Wait a few seconds for the redness to leave, and then another tak weld onto the first tak and continue. I know its slow but will this work. Is this a good way to weld very light metal ?
What's a good tip for welding the bar onto this 3mm bushing using an arc ? I was thinking a 3.2mm for (since that's all I have atm) at 100 amps. And just do tak welds. As in weld a spot. Wait a few seconds for the redness to leave, and then another tak weld onto the first tak and continue. I know its slow but will this work. Is this a good way to weld very light metal ?
- Location
- Somerset
Best way to weld thin stock with an arc welder is to buy a mig... Modern arc welders are better than the older oil immersed oxford type but in my experience anything thin you will just blow straight through. thick stuff like RSJs etc an old oxford will beat a mig any day. usually see cheap migs in sales for 20-30 quid that should do the job.
But, if you dont want to go that way and you want to persevere with stick, buy the thin rods and turn the amps down as low as you can. do a test run on something similar sized, if you blow through it you need smaller rods and less amps, if there is no penetration you need more amps and maybe a bigger rod. Just have a play around with some scrap before you go at the actual thing you want to weld especially if its only small. Tack welding with rods will be a pain as you will have to chip the slag off between each weld. probably wont be as strong either. Oh and dont use damp rods! I store mine in the boiler room as its warm and dry, if you leave them out in the damp workshop they will absorb moisture from the air and they will make your life a misery. If you're in any doubt buy a few new ones and try them.
Someone else may wish to disagree with the above, I only know what i've learned from teaching myself through cocking up! never been on any courses or anything (some might say you can tell
). The main thing with welding that you must remember is it doesnt matter what it looks like if its strong! Friend of mine is a proffesional welder, and he's poked fun at a couple of my creations for having slightly ugly welds with some splatter. But they've not fallen apart yet, and at the end of the day thats the important thing. ugly welds can be strong, pretty welds can be weak. Also, what is it you are making/repairing?
I welded up part of a friend's excavator because he couldn't find that particular part anymore. It looks awful and even he thought it would go withing 10 mins of use. But 2 years on it's still going strong.Best way to weld thin stock with an arc welder is to buy a mig... Modern arc welders are better than the older oil immersed oxford type but in my experience anything thin you will just blow straight through. thick stuff like RSJs etc an old oxford will beat a mig any day. usually see cheap migs in sales for 20-30 quid that should do the job.
But, if you dont want to go that way and you want to persevere with stick, buy the thin rods and turn the amps down as low as you can. do a test run on something similar sized, if you blow through it you need smaller rods and less amps, if there is no penetration you need more amps and maybe a bigger rod. Just have a play around with some scrap before you go at the actual thing you want to weld especially if its only small. Tack welding with rods will be a pain as you will have to chip the slag off between each weld. probably wont be as strong either. Oh and dont use damp rods! I store mine in the boiler room as its warm and dry, if you leave them out in the damp workshop they will absorb moisture from the air and they will make your life a misery. If you're in any doubt buy a few new ones and try them.
Someone else may wish to disagree with the above, I only know what i've learned from teaching myself through cocking up! never been on any courses or anything (some might say you can tell
Also, what is it you are making/repairing?
- Location
- SW Scotland
Get some 2.5mm rods and try and angle the rod so most of the heat goes into the round bar. As you say, small tacks then tacks onto the tacks and build it up.
Remember to pull the chrome rod out to keep the heat away from the seals and wrap it with something to keep the spatter off it.
Still risky though. You might end up welding the bush into the hole, which would be worse. I'd be more inclined to try cutting the bush with a hacksaw. Take the blade off the saw and reassemble the hacksaw with the blade inside the hole. After you cut through the bush you should be able to burst it out with a small chisel. Remember to clean up any score marks from the chisel with emery before trying to put the new bush in.