Help with injectors

[stugordon321]

Hi lads. My old IH674 smokes quite badly from No4 cylinder. I've been told this could be a faulty injector & to swap No4 with say No1 to see if it still smokes from No4.
Not having worked on Diesel engines could anyone let me know if it's simply a case is unscrewing the pipe & the bolts holding it in the cylinder head then just pulling the injector out of the head.
Or is there more to it??
When it comes to bleeding the injectors after swapping them around do I just leave the fuel pipe loose & crank engine over until diesel comes out then tighten up pipe? Then repeat on other injector? Or is there more to it?
Also the return pipe that links all the injectors together leaks diesel where No4 injector is. Could this be anything do with my smoking engine?
When it's running the smoke clears until you Rev the engine coasing it to smoke quite badly but again the smoke clears after a second or two. Is this likely to be injector or piston rings??
Thanks lads Stu

 

[Mursal]

Pipe loose nuts loose, big screwdriver of bar and prize up on the body of the injector until the nuts go tight again.
Loosen nuts, take pipe off and swap.
Leave one pipe loose, to bleed crank engine over, until you see the pipe nut wet, tighten.

Just be careful prizeing up, as sometimes the copper sheet/sleeve comes with the injector, nothing you can do bout it.
Just clean and replace. Also clean the bottom of both injector where it seals against the copper washer, any dirt it will leak engine compression. New copper washers might be best, or chance the old ones?
You probably need new or at least different washers on the bleed off pipe on the top of No4 injector, but it has nothing to do with the smoke.
If the smoke doesn't clear with the injector swap, consider valve stem oil seals, cheaper than piston rings.

 

[stugordon321]

Thanks Mursal. You mention copper sleeve sometimes comes with the injector, is this sleeve supposed to stay in the cylinder head as I pull out the injector? If so is there anything I can do so it stays where it should be?
The leak I mentioned regarding the diesel return pipe is the actual pipe where somehow the pipe has been damaged in the past. Having not worked with Diesel engines I was unsure if this could effect the injectors performance therefore coasing the smoke but from your reply I guess this isn't possible?
You also mention valve guide seals etc, if these need replacing would the engine not smoke constantly while running? Only asking as it only smokes for a short time when the engine is revved up etc then if left running at the same throttle opening the smoke clears but if you increase the revs again it throws out more smoke until the revs settle & the smoke clears. It does this no matter how many RPM it's running at.
The smoke is white/ blue which is why I thought it might be the rings although I would imagine if it is the rings letting oil past into the combination chamber it would be bluer instead of the whiter smoke like it is.
How should I go about testing the compression on the engine? Do I just need to remove the injectors & does the compression tester go in the head there?
What should the compression be on a good engine?
Thanks Stu

 

[Mursal]

Yes it should stay in the head.
Diesel or WD40 overnight soaking down between the two might help, tapping the injector to try and break up any rust in the joint. No the return pipe leaking will not affect the injector, it might leave the tractor hard to start, though.
Yes the compression tester goes in instead of the injector.
Cranking on the starter with all the injectors out.
Its a comparison test, so you will find one or maybe two cylinders down, compared to the other two.
If they are all around the same it usually means all is well. expect (350-450 psi ball park)
I only mentioned valve stem seals, because its an easy fix and in my opinion would need to be checked, before pulling the pistons out. Especially if the tractor is running well except for a bit of smoke. Which might well clear after hard work.

 

[stugordon321]

Thanks again Mursal for your help.
I had heard a good hard work out might help seal the bore if it's been living a easy life. Only problem I have is not being a farm or land owner is finding something hard / heavy to give it a hard work out. My uncle owns a farm nxt door to my yard so might be worth asking if he's got anything needs doing that will give the engine a good workout. How long should I work the engine hard for?
Would something like say ploughing be a good workout? Or would pulling a heavy trailer be enough?
If I have to pull the head off to check the rings/ bore I would do the guide seals along with new gaskets etc.
It can take a bit of effort to start it but I assumed this was from sitting idle for weeks at a time but could well be the diesel return pipe as it drips diesel when running so leaks enough to be a problem.
I don't intend using the tractor for any heavy/ hard work it will be used to power a post driver & maybe things like topper, harrows & roller etc as I'm a fencer by trade but thinking about doing horse paddock maintenance etc in the spring/ summer
Should I torque the injectors or would they be ok just tightened up?
I need a manual but haven't got round to buying one yet.
Thanks Stu

 

[Mursal]

No just tighten the injector down even
You can do the valve stem seals without taking the head off, that's the reason I mentioned them to you.
Give it a few hours work, see how it goes for you