IH 1255xl oil consumption

[SuperTwo]

I'm getting sick of constantly topping up the engine oil in my 1255 so I'm biting the bullet and im going to sort it out once and for all.
So far I've pulled off the exhaust manifold and ran the engine briefly with some cardboard placed over the exhaust ports.
There is visible oil spatter from cylinders No. 1, 5, and 6 which confirms its not the turbo that is the problem.
I know its more than likely worn or damaged rings but someone has mentioned to me that it could be worn valve guides. Would this cause exesive oil consumption?
Im keen to hear some thoughts of some of the IH experts on here.
Thanks.

 

[agrimax]

Not an IH expert but yes,worn valve guides will cause excessive oil use and give you oil from the exhaust too. Worn rings will do the same but there will be noticable blow by from the breather. It would be worth inspecting the valve stem oil seals though,as they are likely hard and no longer sealing.Do a compression test before you strip any more.........

 

[Mur Huwcun]

What kind of work has she been doing? Have you given it some proper hard work? Slogging on its knees for a few hours to clear the cobwebs, carbon etc and seat things better.

 

[SuperTwo]

Not an IH expert but yes,worn valve guides will cause excessive oil use and give you oil from the exhaust too. Worn rings will do the same but there will be noticable blow by from the breather. It would be worth inspecting the valve stem oil seals though,as they are likely hard and no longer sealing.Do a compression test before you strip any more.........

Unfortunately I've been a bit too keen and I took the head off this morning.
I changed the valve stem seals and lapped the valves about a year or so ago when I done the head gasket so I think it would be fair to say that they are unlikely to be the problem.
Would it be worth refitting the head and doing a compression test or should I measure the valve guides to see if they are within tolerance first?

 

[Farmer_Joe]

do the rings while it out

 

[SuperTwo]

What kind of work has she been doing? Have you given it some proper hard work? Slogging on its knees for a few hours to clear the cobwebs, carbon etc and seat things better.

We were hoping it was just glazed up so we had her out ploughing for a day in the springtime and out another day on the forage harvester to blow out the cobwebs but it didnt do any good

 

[agrimax]

Will the sump come off or is it an engine out first job on these?
Can you feel wear at the top of the bores?
I'd be looking at getting the pistons out and measuring the bores,ring gaps,piston groove wear etc. Maybe a good deglaze and a set of rings would sort things?

 

[SuperTwo]

Will the sump come off or is it an engine out first job on these?
Can you feel wear at the top of the bores?
I'd be looking at getting the pistons out and measuring the bores,ring gaps,piston groove wear etc. Maybe a good deglaze and a set of rings would sort things?

I think the front axle/tombstone has to be removed before the sump can be dropped.
Im going to check the valve guides for wear first and if that's not the problem i'll put a new set of pistons and liners in.
Shes not done too bad to have well over 10000 hours without being touched.

 

[Gapples]

Valve stem seals are very common, especially if they are not worked hard, the oil is not changed at regular intervals or cheap multi purpose oil is used.
If the stem seals are leaking there's usually plenty oil around the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head.

If it's had modern synthetic oil in it then the bores will very likely be glazed & the carbon ring cleaned off.
They like good quality 15/40 mineral oil in them, changed every 200 hours Max !

 

[SuperTwo]

Valve stem seals are very common, especially if they are not worked hard, the oil is not changed at regular intervals or cheap multi purpose oil is used.
If the stem seals are leaking there's usually plenty oil around the exhaust manifold on the cylinder head.

If it's had modern synthetic oil in it then the bores will very likely be glazed & the carbon ring cleaned off.
They like good quality 15/40 mineral oil in them, changed every 200 hours Max !

Ive used Total TIR 7900 mineral oil which is what volvo use as OEM so it should be good stuff. Valve stem seals have been replaced previously and the problem has persisted. It would use about 4-5 litres on a full days work would that not be excessive for failed valve stem seals?

 

[Gapples]

Ive used Total TIR 7900 mineral oil which is what volvo use as OEM so it should be good stuff. Valve stem seals have been replaced previously and the problem has persisted. It would use about 4-5 litres on a full days work would that not be excessive for failed valve stem seals?

Yes, I'd be amazed if the engine used that much oil through the valve stem seals.

What's the inlet manifold like ? It's very possible the turbo seals would allow oil through.
Often if the air filter is getting dirty a turbo will start sucking oil through the seals when it struggles to get enough air through the filter.

I think you'll be digging a little deeper.

 

[SuperTwo]

Yes, I'd be amazed if the engine used that much oil through the valve stem seals.

What's the inlet manifold like ? It's very possible the turbo seals would allow oil through.
Often if the air filter is getting dirty a turbo will start sucking oil through the seals when it struggles to get enough air through the filter.

I think you'll be digging a little deeper.

Inlet manifold is dry and filters were changed a few weeks ago.
All signs pointing to worn/damaged rings from what I can see. Does the axle/front bolster need to come out completely to drop the sump?

 

[Gapples]

Inlet manifold is dry and filters were changed a few weeks ago.
All signs pointing to worn/damaged rings from what I can see. Does the axle/front bolster need to come out completely to drop the sump?

The front bolster needs to come forward to access the bolts at the front of the sump.
It maybe possible to make some long dowels to replace the bolts & just wheel the whole lot forward far enough, I never tried that myself.
In fact I can't remember anyone at the IH dealers I worked at stripping a 1255 or 1455 engine ! We did few 9/1056 engines & the set-up of the bolster is similar if I remember correctly ?

 

[nearly there]

That engine should have valve rotors so no cabin build up should occur to remove the sump on the 1055 and 1056 I used to leave front axle on and open bolts as and drop sump when sump is off the shell bearing on radiator side check them first as those engine never set level so if oil runs a little low the white metal might be gone in the shells if I was you I would get another engine oil filler cap and put a breather pipe on it those 358 engines breath heavy . By the eighties those engines were using head gasket had a webbing between each cylinder and thus never gave trouble early ones did not have the webbing

 

[SuperTwo]

I got the pistons out this evening, slight scoring on No. 6 big end journal unfortunately. Some wear on the rings but nothing catastrophic.
Still had its original shell bearings, would the pistons have been bob punched from the factory to identify which one goes where or does it mean someone has had the pistons out before?

 

[Gapples]

I got the pistons out this evening, slight scoring on No. 6 big end journal unfortunately. Some wear on the rings but nothing catastrophic.
Still had its original shell bearings, would the pistons have been bob punched from the factory to identify which one goes where or does it mean someone has had the pistons out before?

No punch marks on the big end, I used to lightly pop mark them 1 to 5
Or 1 to 3 on 4 cylinders.
If your crank is just lightly marked you may get away with a polish up & a new set of shells.

 

[SuperTwo]

Ok guys my rebuild kit arrived today including shell bearings. Now the originals shown on the left have a hole and a groove which isnt present on the new set.
Are the new ones safe to use in a turbo engine?

 

[Mur Huwcun]

Are they con rod bearings or mains? If mains has the block got oil holes in each main bearing cap or is the oil fed right through the crank? Obviously one pair will need an oil feed hole.

First impression suggests they’re not the right ones

 

[Gapples]

I've never rebuild a 1255 engine but if they are big ends shells the new ones look correct as fitted to all other IH engines of the same series.
Does the con rod have a corresponding hole in it to feed the small end ?

Case International Bearing Conrod Standard 3055351R91 STD 3200, 4200, 46, 55, 56, 74, 84, 85, 95

Case International Bearing Conrod Standard 3055351R91 STD 3200, 4200, 46, 55, 56, 74, 84, 85, 95

www.tractorparts.co.uk

 

[SuperTwo]

Yes they're the con rod bearings. I've had a look on the Case IH parts website and their page shows the shell bearings with the holes.

The conrods are in the machine shop at the moment getting the piston pin bushes reamed to size so I cant check.
I think you are right Gapples that the holes are there to feed the small end. So if I use these then the small ends won't be properly lubricated.