JD 2650 exhaust rusted on

[ladycrofter]

Need to replace the exhaust box as the chimney mounting stub coming out of it is nearly broken off. Obviously a problem for previous owner, bunch of welding and patches to try and hold it on, not much left of it to do anything with. Decided to just replace the whole thing. Mounting bolts came off okay, which was worrying, tells me someone has tried this before.

Cannot get it to free from the adapter link thing that joins it to the turbo. Fitter said no bolts, clips etc, should just come off. Rusted solid on. Hammered at it, wd40, even tried the gas torch on it, still solid. Is there a magic oil out there that will break it free? Thanks.

This thing.

 

[tinman]

Ed's red..
a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF fluid with about 10% brake fluid and some white spirits to stop it separating somewhat.
but if youve tried everything you said then that mixture isnt going to help much more.

id be careful knocking round the turbo with a hammer as you know, its fragile stuff.
not the best plan and taking al safety factors into account, could you cut the old box off and get it down to a manageable size so as you could see what exactly is holding it there.
ive never had to replace a box on a 2650 so im only guessing here.

 

[ladycrofter]

Thanks, was thinking about cutting the old one off- any idea if there's asbestos in it? I've no idea what's inside these things.

 

[tinman]

I don't tbh, there mightnt be anything left inside it by now if it's that well patched up but that's not to say, normally it's like a steel wool inside exhaust boxes.
Maybe cut a wee "window" in it to see, there will be baffle plates there so it I'll be a pita to cut.
Mind you, I looked at the parts manual for it and it seems a rare setup, as your Fitter said there is no bolts showing, just a kind of adapter flange between it and the turbo.
It's strange it's so tight..
I take it you have all bolts removed, no sneaky one you missed?

 

[ladycrofter]

Thanks, all the bolts came out no problem. Going to try heat and freeze spray and oil, then decide. I'm starting to wonder if someone has used chemical metal. The old fitter told me they used to have trouble getting a seal. Will post a pic later of what the real problem is with the exhaust stack, maybe get some suggestions for repairing it if I can't get the whole can off.

 

[8100]

Cut some holes in it and put a bar through see if it will turn a bit when heated

 

[Tractortech]

Now Then..
I've seen these corrode and become difficult to separate in the past.. Penetrating fluid (rust solvent etc) and persistence will do it.
Usually the ring between the turbo and silencer was a loose fit..

 

[ladycrofter]

Now Then..
I've seen these corrode and become difficult to separate in the past.. Penetrating fluid (rust solvent etc) and persistence will do it.
Usually the ring between the turbo and silencer was a loose fit..

That's the problem exactly. I've tried multiple times now over 4-5 days: gas torch, freeze spray, two types penetrating oil, and way too much force. Will not budge a mm. Conclusion, someone has used chemical metal to join it at both sides to get a seal as there's no gaskets or o-rings.
It's so stuck, I think that even if I cut it off, the joining rings would still stay seized and I'd end up having to remove the whole thing including the turbo. All because of a very poorly designed exhaust flue :-(.
Decision is to grrr admit defeat and leave it alone. Fix the original problem and fabricate a support bracket low down so it doesn't happen again.

 

[Fendtbro]

A siezed on part can never be allowed to beat you.. cover your front windows and cut the box to bits. Once you get down to the ring, just carefully cut as far as you can with a disc then split the ring with an air or 240v pencil grinder. A fresh burr/cutter should just eat it. Maybe a bit more careful heat and the bits should come out. Don’t hammer near the turbo casting..

 

[Tractortech]

There's no striking marks on where the ring sits in the silencer.... Get a bar that fits in there an get some good direct strikes in there.. As I said, it's happened before..

 

[ladycrofter]

There's no striking marks on where the ring sits in the silencer.... Get a bar that fits in there an get some good direct strikes in there.. As I said, it's happened before..

Would that not risk cracking the turbo casting?

 

[tinman]

from the pic it looks like it grew there....

yeah, id be very carefull about striking anywhere near that turbo, its been heated and cooled so much over time it id be like glass, it id take a bit of a knock but you wouldnt get a warning for it would just crack with the wrong blow.
looking at the exhaust even if you do repair it it wont be long before it raises its head again, maybe if its cumin close to a busy time then fix it up for now so as in a quieter time you could have a proper go at it but as suggested, id cut as much of it out as i could do and get down to the ring so you can see what your at and then nip the ring out carefully.
ive never had any great longevity in repairing an exhaust box, it ill rear its head again in no time.

on a side note, i personally wouldn't touch any part from the questionable tractor parts outfit that had the box you put up a pic of in the first few posts, unless its a branded part off them (which they do sell in the branded packaging times) id stand well clear of it for from experience it could be off by a country mile when it comes to fitting it.
id rather use anybody but them.
ive had good success with vapormatic for parts, so far so good when it comes to a replacement part thats not genuine but id price JD for it too just to see, times the genuine part isnt that expensive when all is ironed out but times it can be silly money too but i always like to give the customer the choice between genuine and spurious prices.

 

[gatepost]

Seems a waste, but cheap Gin, loosens all maybe! looks like a cutting back job, might have to invest in one off those little hobby grinder things.

 

[pettsy]

If you’ve got the replacement exhaust can you not cut the bulk of the existing one off then carefully work back?

 

[Tractortech]

If you hit it in the right place it'll come off. Patience, rust solvent and a little good judgement will do it.

 

[ladycrofter]

Thanks for advice! Did a serious repair to get through the working season, it's not used much. Then into the shed this winter and cut it off!

 

[ladycrofter]

Thanks for advice! Did a serious repair to get through the working season, it's not used much. Then into the shed this winter and cut it off!

Gungummed, embedded a flexible flange, ringed and snecked tight and braced off the front bonnet support bar. Had to heat and flare the exhaust stack a bit. And yes! Will get the part from the JD agent when the time comes, not that much more expensive than the copies, and I don't want to do the job twice.

 

[Fendtbro]

Seems a waste, but cheap Gin, loosens all maybe! looks like a cutting back job, might have to invest in one off those little hobby grinder things.

The hobby dremel things are probably a bit feeble for removing lumps of tractor.. a proper die/pencil grinder with a parallel cylindrical cutter is a really powerful tool. They just eat mild steel and even tackle hard steels. Will make cat 1 holes into cat 2 in no time with a bit of elbow grease. Air tool is great as more compact and only £20 odd

 

[gatepost]

The hobby dremel things are probably a bit feeble for removing lumps of tractor.. a proper die/pencil grinder with a parallel cylindrical cutter is a really powerful tool. They just eat mild steel and even tackle hard steels. Will make cat 1 holes into cat 2 in no time with a bit of elbow grease. Air tool is great as more compact and only £20 odd

I was just thinking of something you could get in a small space, just used one to take out a broken exhaust stud in a 3cx.

 

[Fendtbro]

I was just thinking of something you could get in a small space, just used one to take out a broken exhaust stud in a 3cx.

Sounds handy.. you really need one of every tool ever made!