Lambing staff

We do it the other way, leaving unlambed and moving lambed through pens into other fields while ringing them at 2-3 days old.
When I see how many folk are lambing and how few interventions they do I must have bred the wrong sheep. 220 this year, twins only fed 3 weeks, outside all winter and through lambing, 35 hoggs which can be some work. Don't interfere too much but watch regularly to check on progress 3 or 4 times a day and if none and all I can feel is a head not sure how many would have had a live lamb.
Home bred and select from twin lambs only.
Is it not a pain to move on the ewes and lambs on from the unlambed? Some days we'll have over 20 ewes lamb can't picture how we'd move them on from the group efficiently without having to do it individually 🤔
 

Sheepfog

Member
Location
Southern England
Selling the lambs as hoggets through the live ring long tailed non terminal types is a bridge too far unfortunately

Lots will disagree, but a good time saving tip is not to bother ringing lambs at lambing. Used to work on a place with 300 outside lambing mules in March, then 700 hill ewes and 100 cows lambing and calving in April (on my own). First year I tried ringing the mule ewes’ lambs, but took up a lot of time. Especially when I had the other stock to feed which were on a different farm 20 mins away.

Get them in after lambing if you can get someone to help. The availability of the numnuts applicator makes this a real consideration now.
 

Troward

Member
Mixed Farmer
What problems did you think the drifting caused in the unlambed ewes? A lot of my interventions in the first 10days was lambing thieves that were trying to take fresh lambs. Do you think moving them regularly could be increasing this? I was thinking I'm seeing more thieving as I'm breeding more maternal sheep, very rarely have rejections these days especially compared to indoors a few years ago
Mismothering because with drift lambing, you're probably stocking them tighter than you would if set stocked. We had very little mismothering this year compared to before when drift lambing.

I found more sheep were breach/mispresented, which I assumed was because I was pushing them from field to field, but there may have been another cause.

And more stress on those lambs that have just been born, by going in the field just after they have been born, to ring and number and move other stock.
 
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What problems did you think the drifting caused in the unlambed ewes? A lot of my interventions in the first 10days was lambing thieves that were trying to take fresh lambs. Do you think moving them regularly could be increasing this? I was thinking I'm seeing more thieving as I'm breeding more maternal sheep, very rarely have rejections these days especially compared to indoors a few years ago
What I’ve found since started lambing ewes outside is that they want to be settled. If they are in a familiar place they aren’t stressed finding somewhere new to-lamb each time they are moved, I also think if they can have more than one field to lamb in it provides more quiet areas for them to lamb so you get less mismothering. I also think they want to be stocked as lightly as practical. I get far less mismothering with outside lambers (mules) than inside (Texel crosses)
 

sheepdogtrail

Member
Livestock Farmer
Is it not a pain to move on the ewes and lambs on from the unlambed? Some days we'll have over 20 ewes lamb can't picture how we'd move them on from the group efficiently without having to do it individually 🤔
The best way to do this is with a good work dog or a couple of them. Train them to lift and shift only ewes with lambs. They will need to be quite working dogs that can walk through the flock and gently lift the targets and push them in the desired direction.

Grannies (mismothering) can be caused by not having enough space for each ewe to go find a quite spot. In that case, if two or more ewes cross each others path at the time of water breaking they may all try to claim the first born lambs. Which sucks if you are not their to watch who goes where at the end of the show.
 

Estate fencing.

Member
Livestock Farmer
The best way to do this is with a good work dog or a couple of them. Train them to lift and shift only ewes with lambs. They will need to be quite working dogs that can walk through the flock and gently lift the targets and push them in the desired direction.
That’s what I do with a very good old dog I have, singles lamb in a bare 5 field and get penned up twice a week and trailered down the road, once it’s been done a couple of time the in lamb ewes know what’s going on a move away quite anyway.
 

sheepdogtrail

Member
Livestock Farmer
Moving lambed ewes is slow , mich easier to move unlambed ewes . I just drive round morning ring number and same late affernoon when filed is to busy move on …. Its s a doddle ,
I would agree. But I need a fool proof system to ID those ewes that have not lambed. They all look alike to me. Again, a good work dog. One that can get a new mothers attention enough so she scans for her lamb(s) so I know who to move.
 

sheepdogtrail

Member
Livestock Farmer
That’s what I do with a very good old dog I have, singles lamb in a bare 5 field and get penned up twice a week and trailered down the road, once it’s been done a couple of time the in lamb ewes know what’s going on a move away quite anyway.
It most be a pleasure to work with such good help. Congrats. Those dogs are so f**king hard to find these days.
 

Estate fencing.

Member
Livestock Farmer
It most be a pleasure to work with such good help. Congrats. Those dogs are so f**king hard to find these days.
Home bred dog, been the best dog I have ever had, my best mate in many ways.
image.jpg
Here he is taking a snooze after this mornings move. He is a fantastic dog at working in the dark as very often in the winter we get sheep in before light. 10 now though so unfortunately his working days are nearly over.
 

sheepdogtrail

Member
Livestock Farmer
Home bred dog, been the best dog I have ever had, my best mate in many ways. View attachment 1178399Here he is taking a snooze after this mornings move. He is a fantastic dog at working in the dark as very often in the winter we get sheep in before light. 10 now though so unfortunately his working days are nearly over.
He looks pretty chill and he lets you drive his truck. I love watching older good dogs work. They command the field with such a gentle presence.

What is his name? I wish you two many more years together.
 
Lots will disagree, but a good time saving tip is not to bother ringing lambs at lambing. Used to work on a place with 300 outside lambing mules in March, then 700 hill ewes and 100 cows lambing and calving in April (on my own). First year I tried ringing the mule ewes’ lambs, but took up a lot of time. Especially when I had the other stock to feed which were on a different farm 20 mins away.

Get them in after lambing if you can get someone to help. The availability of the numnuts applicator makes this a real consideration now.
Interesting thought, do you know anyone doing it it like this with a numnuts applicator in the south east?
If your not ringing any then I'm assuming you can't be tagging any either? This would be an issue for me as this is when I tag replacement ewe lambs knowing they have popped out without assistance and are the right cross (I'm grading up to shedders from a wooly flock)
Could always stock a 'B' flock separately that I wouldn't keep any replacements from and do them as you've suggested ringing at the end all at once
 

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