Jdunn55
Member
- Location
- Helston, cornwall
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Had grown Triticale for a number of years, but got too expensive for seed and it broke down with rust, most of the extra yield would be straw, now grow oats as it's idiot prof , could add pea or vetch if you need extra protein.anyone growing it? Is it as good as this advert makes out? Yield and protein really that high?
It's the protein I was interested in, along with the huge yields. The plan on my off ground is to grow herbal mixes with a large amount of red clover for grazing with heifers/calves/sheep/sucklers doing mob grazing for 4 years and then 4 years of cropping wether that's corn for combining/wholecrop/maize/italian ryegrass mixes for silage, but really want something to provide some extra protein but need to give red clover a bit of a break inbetween!Had grown Triticale for a number of years, but got too expensive for seed and it broke down with rust, most of the extra yield would be straw, now grow oats as it's idiot prof , could add pea or vetch if you need extra protein.
It's the protein I was interested in, along with the huge yields. The plan on my off ground is to grow herbal mixes with a large amount of red clover for grazing with heifers/calves/sheep/sucklers doing mob grazing for 4 years and then 4 years of cropping wether that's corn for combining/wholecrop/maize/italian ryegrass mixes for silage, but really want something to provide some extra protein but need to give red clover a bit of a break inbetween!
What's yield like on your oats and what would protein levels be if vetch was added?
I'm wanting to do as much as I can from home grown forage/crops and rely as little as possible on the feed reps if I can! Would like to try lucerne at some point but like you say cant do everything all at once! I can comfortably graze 150 cows by my calculations (including reseeding roughly 1/6 evry year) which leaves me with roughly 180 acres of land away from the farm. From that I need to make enough silage to feed everything and graze all youngstock and the sucklers and sheep. Sucklers and sheep need 60 acres of grazing which leaves 120 acres "spare" (the sucklers aren't mine to sell although the numbers are being reduced and likewise with the sheep plus I enjoy them - usually).heaviest crop we can grow, is hybrid rye, up to 20 acre, then maize behind. This years crop isn't as milky as the analysis suggests it could be, and in fairness, there is a lot of straw beneath the head, we can justify that, in 2 ways, 1st being a decent crop of maize behind it, and 2nd we can buy relatively small amounts of straights, to balance it. We have 18 acres in, mixed with winter vetch, in the hope of increasing the feed value, time will judge. But the more you can achieve with home grown forage, the better. One of the mistakes i made, when i started out, was trying 'to hard', i put in lucerne, and grew maize, with some arable for home mixing, everything worked well, except for the fact, i had removed to much grass/acs from the farm, which limited the grazing to severely. On the grain, i put 60 ton of winter barley, in a shed, mill and mix, plus say 15 ton of goodies to mix with it, and realised the following spring, i had bagged virtually all of that by hand ! You simply cannot do everything at once, looks, sounds right, but in practice, often a different story, we were all young once, keen as mustard, wanting to try this, or that, but you cant do it all at once.
Tritecale, spr, we have grown, it yields well, and simple to farm, lupins are on the 'list' to try, they have an advantage they like acidy soils, but admit to hearing both good and bad, about them, but it all comes down to available acres, grass is the cheapest, are your cow numbers up to capacity ? if not, you might be better off just growing grass, and buying a few more cows.
That's sort of my plan, I'm not going to be at full capacity for atleast 4 years but more likely 5, so am going to spend the next 4-5 years getting grass spot on with fodder beet as a break crop for anything that needs reseeding before undersowing spring barley with grass the following year. I'm just trying to plan ahead for when I'm at full capacity on 4-5 years time and work out a way to reduce my dependence on bought in feed.Your grass silage should be our primary source of protein. Good quality grass is teeming with the stuff and can have significant ME content. Focus on your grass silage first and foremost. Get that right and you can consider the need for the additional starch provided by forage crops. These are one harvest wonders that cost money to grow and they are not without risk.
The only issue I have with the red clover is the need for it to have a break. If I could continuously grow it year on year with a reseed after 4 years it would be perfect, but from what I can gather it needs atleast a 4 year but ideally 6 year break inbetween crops to stop disease?I've grown red clover as a pure stand before for various people. Works well but needs a good seed bed and good P and K IMO. Responds to being fed with manure/slurry too. Slower than grass to get going in spring but makes up for it with later cuts in the season. Deep rooting and will grow in a drier time more readily than grass.
Lucerne is similar in many ways. Better on land that drains nicely.
The only issue I have with the red clover is the need for it to have a break. If I could continuously grow it year on year with a reseed after 4 years it would be perfect, but from what I can gather it needs atleast a 4 year but ideally 6 year break inbetween crops to stop disease?
That's what I'm trying to work out, what rotation is best, for yield, protein, energy etcI've never had anyone try to grow it back to back. All things go better when rotated, it's just the way of things and Grandad knew it as well as anyone. Put a spring barley crop in between them or something?
The weed ingress will probably be an issue by then anyway.
It depends on when I calve, I can go early spring (february march) which means they would be dry in January/february and stale in november/december so like you say wouldnt need much quality at that pointstrip graze, and back fence, simplicity is king. But if you are spr calving, you wont need much more than fodder beet, and hay/straw should you ? We are going to grow fodder beet for the first time this spring.
To keep yields up at the end of lactation and therefore not need a dairy cake but keep with blend thereby cutting costs? Especially if calved later in say april to take full advantage of the contract?Why do you want all this protien? Your cows will be dry when housed, and graze all the protien they need
Silage and cake in the parlour. It doesn't get much cheaper.To keep yields up at the end of lactation and therefore not need a dairy cake but keep with blend thereby cutting costs? Especially if calved later in say april to take full advantage of the contract?
I've found red clover really easy and good personally. I've no experience of lucerne but from what I've heard it can be a painRed clover and Lucerne can be quite tricky crops to grow to much like hard work for me anyway.