Massey 5460 clutch switch

[dannewhouse]

I think the top switch is going on clutch, it's jerky to set off quite often now and it keeps flashing forwards/back lights, you have to put it into neutral and dip clutch to reset it am I correct or any other ideas? Cheers

 

[DanniAgro]

My 6150 does a similar thing, and there's a set of instructions to cure it, but I'm not at home at the moment so will have to wait to post here, unless some other kindly soul cares to post sooner.

 

[tr250]

There were a lot of problems with this switch. Ask your dealer but there’s a plug in thing available to bypass it now

 

[Werzle]

im led to believe it can be re-set and also spraying behind the pedal onto the button/switch with dw40 might cure it

 

[tr250]

im led to believe it can be re-set and also spraying behind the pedal onto the button/switch with dw40 might cure it

Yes but it’s not the safest so for the cost might be better to do a permanent cure

 

[dannewhouse]

Yes but it’s not the safest so for the cost might be better to do a permanent cure

That's my thoughts, a switch won't be that dear but stacking wrapped bales with a jerking clutch be a pain in arse
Is it as simple as swap switch?

 

[dannewhouse]

 

[dannewhouse]

im pretty sure the bottom switch is ok, its only the top. sometimes its jerky. others when you let fully off the clutch it just flashes the forewards and backwards light, you have to move that lever to neutral and press clutch to reset it but its getting more common and no use as it is.

 

[Cowabunga]

Is this a Speedshift tractor or a Dyna4? Which version of bottom-of-clutch-switch does it currently have. Has the transmission been recalibrated recently? [Almost certainly not].
Hot weather and constant use in that hot weather causes failure in some versions of the BOC switch, which is actually positioned at the top of the clutch. Changing it is straightforward but the transmission should be recalibrated afterwards. There is, I believe, at least one final solution [there may be several ] that does away with the switch completely and I am not sure what is currently available or recommended by MF. Different ages and transmissions may have different viable solutions. Get your dealer out, first giving them the tractor's serial number, age and transmission type, so they have the appropriate solution at hand to repair it in one short hit.

 

[Cowabunga]

That's my thoughts, a switch won't be that dear but stacking wrapped bales with a jerking clutch be a pain in arse
Is it as simple as swap switch?

It can be. But it is a safety issue so go get it done properly. Check the proper operation of the flywheel damper while you are at it. Leaving a broken damper in operation risks transmission input shaft damage, which is a bigger expensive job. I had to replace my New Holland's flywheel damper at around 6500 hours. Some fail sooner, some later, no matter what the tractor brand.

 

[dannewhouse]

its speedshift.
not recalibrated, can we do this by the sequence putting it in neutral dipping clutch etc or has to be laptop?
wasn't really wanting a dealer callout ideally ... was thinking not too bigger job ...

 

[Cowabunga]

its speedshift.
not recalibrated, can we do this by the sequence putting it in neutral dipping clutch etc or has to be laptop?
wasn't really wanting a dealer callout ideally ... was thinking not too bigger job ...

No you don't need laptop but I'm damned if I remember the sequence. I do remember that Speedshift tractors often needed more than one attempt before the calibration would be safely stored [remembered/flashed or whatever].

Changing the switch and recalibrating can be a DIY job as long as you know what you are doing. Do you? That's the problem.

 

[dannewhouse]

well im confident on swapping the switch etc and confident its the top 1 as the problem occurs using the top half of the clutch. not when a full press is done.
you know how a lot of these things are portrayed to be dealer only but are relatively easy yourself.

spent plenty hours on 31 series electronics!

 

[Cowabunga]

well im confident on swapping the switch etc and confident its the top 1 as the problem occurs using the top half of the clutch. not when a full press is done.
you know how a lot of these things are portrayed to be dealer only but are relatively easy yourself.

spent plenty hours on 31 series electronics!

No doubt someone will be along in a minute who will remember the calibration sequence on these. Yes, it is very much something you can DIY.

 

[dannewhouse]

I had it 2 minuites since but damned if I can find it now ...

 

[dannewhouse]

That tractors cured ... Now for the next.
6265 as at home started flashing both forwards and back lights an would not go in either, dash in bits I found the micro switch in power control wobble lever to be faulty was intermittent when testing it. (Actually turned out that the blue wire hadn't had insulation stripped when it was put in water tight plug( any how that cured it for many weeks)
Same problem again. But the water proof plug is testing ok now. I think it's a clutch switch? Bottom 1 seems to be just start which works next can really test and hard. To. Get to. Top is potentiometer could be this?
It's Y reg so earlier type clutch arrangement.

 

[dannewhouse]

Pulled the potentiometer out, I can't say as it's hot a fault, but I don't know what it should read.
Next to bottom switch was closed on 1 circuit and closed on the other when I pressed peddle So as expected?

 

[dannewhouse]

Part no is 3777157m2
And Bourns
37138-dbh-502

Code 352 00 A

 

[dannewhouse]

Just been back to it.
Started it up, foot off clutch.
Put in reverse it just flashed reverse only light. Put it in neutral then back in reverse twice.
Put in forwards just flashed forwards so I dipped clutch then it beeped and started flashing both lights again. Turned it off then back on just flashed both lights now.