Mf 6499 clutch settings

[Grim Reaper]

I’ve got a 6499 and noticed that the clutch was slipping when pulling a load uphill.
in the data menu the fully depressed pedal position for the clutch reads 32 and fully out reads approx 80.
should these numbers read 0 and 100? And are they relative to the actual clutch position?
Any suggestions how to remedy?

 

[dee]

Is your tractor Dyna 6?
Check nothing has slackened or moved in around the clutch pedal.
The potentiometer works on a small linkage make sure all is ok with it.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Yes it’s a Dyna 6, all looks ok with the clutch pedal, no play in the linkage and nice and clean

 

[Cowabunga]

If you dip and re-engage the clutch while still moving, the D6 will slip clutches [badly]. This is to be avoided at all costs. Not good.
I suspect, but don't know, that you may have done this. If you haven't, it doesn't sound good.

 

[Grim Reaper]

I didn’t mention that the preset start off gear doesn’t select when the clutch is fully engaged.

 

[Cowabunga]

I didn’t mention that the preset start off gear doesn’t select when the clutch is fully engaged.

That's good. I much prefer it that way. Have you or someone set the pre-set start-off to 'off' which is one step down from 1A?

 

[Grim Reaper]

Ahh, so if you shift down from 1A that turns the pre set start function off?
I can do this on the auto dial thingy, middle position.

 

[Cowabunga]

Ahh, so if you shift down from 1A that turns the pre set start function off?
I can do this on the auto dial thingy, middle position.

I honestly can't remember precisely how you do it. It's over eight years since I last drove one. I think it requires the clutch pedal to be pressed and the T handle to be pulsed up or down the ratios. Ideally the dealer will have changed it to a two handed job that also requires the Shuttle handle to be in the lifted position as well, to stop accidental changes of the start-off ratio at, say, a road junction. The set ratio should be displayed on the left hand dash screen and, if fitted, on the Datatronic3 screen.

 

[TNSmassey]

You should have a full range of movement from 0-100 i would say. There was a mod on these regards clutch switches but sounds like the potentiometer could be knackered.

There's a clutch pedal calibration that should be done after any work on the pedal is carried out.

>Switch on ignition.
>Depress and release clutch pedal for the first time to erase software display (right side of dash)
>Press down the clutch pedal and keep it depressed.
>Lift the powershuttle lever arm and keep it raised (remaining in in the Neutral location)
>An alarm will sound
>Slowly release the clutch pedal.
>The a;arm will stop.
>Fully release the pedal.
>The alarm will sound again,
>Release the powershuttle lever.
>Switch of for 10 seconds to validate the calibration.

When you dip the clutch your pre-set gear should change back by itself providing you have given it long enough to do so.. with your potentiometer not reading its full range its likely its not seeing the clutch fully depressed hence why its not changing back to its pre-set gear.

If the calibration does not sort it then try changing the pot. Bare in mind tho, there is a bottom of clutch switch and a top of clutch switch which could also be held responsible.

T

 

[Grim Reaper]

You should have a full range of movement from 0-100 i would say. There was a mod on these regards clutch switches but sounds like the potentiometer could be knackered.

There's a clutch pedal calibration that should be done after any work on the pedal is carried out.

>Switch on ignition.
>Depress and release clutch pedal for the first time to erase software display (right side of dash)
>Press down the clutch pedal and keep it depressed.
>Lift the powershuttle lever arm and keep it raised (remaining in in the Neutral location)
>An alarm will sound
>Slowly release the clutch pedal.
>The a;arm will stop.
>Fully release the pedal.
>The alarm will sound again,
>Release the powershuttle lever.
>Switch of for 10 seconds to validate the calibration.

When you dip the clutch your pre-set gear should change back by itself providing you have given it long enough to do so.. with your potentiometer not reading its full range its likely its not seeing the clutch fully depressed hence why its not changing back to its pre-set gear.

If the calibration does not sort it then try changing the pot. Bare in mind tho, there is a bottom of clutch switch and a top of clutch switch which could also be held responsible.

T

thank you.
I’ll try this calibration today, there’s only a potentialmeter, no other switches

 

[Cowabunga]

thank you.
I’ll try this calibration today, there’s only a potentialmeter, no other switches

Originally there would have been a top and bottom of travel switches, both situated way up at the top of the pedal. I believe the bottom of clutch switches in particular gave a lot of trouble and went through several versions. In the end they were removed entirely and a new system used that just didn’t need them. It could be that your tractor has this later modification.
Not all calibrations start at zero and range to one hundred. So don’t expect any to do so necessarily. They may indeed only partially use the range of numbers, starting and ending away from the extremes. So don’t panic about that as long as you see the numbers change as you move whichever ‘dial’ in a linear fashion. Press buttons will usually just be on or off or sometins have an in-between.

 

[Grim Reaper]

Thanks for the advice fellas, clutch reading 0 and 100 now. Haven’t used the tractor today because we’re taking the trumpets off to do the brakes, so fingers crossed.