Joiner said he tested a bit ,in water then next to a radiator never moved a millimeter
New front door for house
- Thread starter astra
- Start date
- Location
- Highland
Not so much the material maybe as the quality of manufacture. But to echo what @TheTallGuy said, we bought a DIY PVC patio sliding door from B&Q for part of the steading conversion, put it in ourselves (bit of a faff to be sure) but it has been every bit as good as the VERY expensive one put in the house by a national company when they did the windows. Both seem to have the same locking mechanism for insurance purposes.
Are you hanging it yourself? PVC doors are pretty heavy compared to wood.
Are you hanging it yourself? PVC doors are pretty heavy compared to wood.
renewablejohn
Member
- Location
- lancs
Any chance of PM your joiner as we have been over 2 years trying to find one capable of constructing a swedish style door.in oak.
Could you collect john ,fair distance
Cowcalf
Member
- Location
- North of Scotland
IF YOU ARE EXPECTING VISIT FROM DRUGS SQUAD GO FOR STEEL LINED AND JUST TO MAKE IT INTERESTING OPENING OUTWARDS, SURE TO DELAY THEM A WHILE
renewablejohn
Member
- Location
- lancs
Was going to Sweden to collect but company I was going to buy from got taken over by a larger company and they refused to make bespoke sizes so uk collection no problem. Actually need 3 doors and 8 windows so would be worth the journey.
renewablejohn
Member
- Location
- lancs
More concerned about our light fingered mobile friends. Tried to nick the MB Trac the other day. Fortunately they could not work out how to start it.
TheTallGuy
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Outward opening isn't much of a challenge these days even with multipoint locking - arguably easier than inward opening as the hinges will be accesible. What you really need is a steel lined sliding pocket door with overrun & shielded drop/lift bolts- can't be bashed in/out & no hinges to cut.
- Location
- west mayo ireland
Any prices i got so far are all coming in around the same price for both which includes removal of old door and fitting of new one and making good.one sales man who only does PVC wouldn't quote me when he seen the location,he said PVC wouldn't b good enuf long term and I'd only b back onto him,thought that was honest of him..any kind of timber is a bad word in our house at the minute,I didn't even get a reply when I showed herself comment about another timber door..
Netherfield
Member
- Location
- West Yorkshire
Composite door £880 fitted, 3 years ago.
Have you a design ,pm me if you wish
Cowcalf
Member
- Location
- North of Scotland
You credit noddy with more brains than I do !
suffolksmallholder
Member
- Location
- Suffolk
If you have a draughty back or front door sit down to hear the cost of lost heat!
SS
suffolksmallholder
Member
- Location
- Suffolk
Oak is the timber NOT to use unless it is in an enclosed environment. Iroco is. Simples. Douglas fir is another reasonable material along with the better WRC (Western Red Cedar. Thuja). or a modern plastic, fully glazed as the glazing with the correct composite spacers, glass & gas fill is fine.
Gone are the days of suffering the howls of Atomic strip. It was once a solution, but sadly just soooo dated. Modern locking systems using modern materials and quality inert timber & glass is the way forward.
SS
Gone are the days of suffering the howls of Atomic strip. It was once a solution, but sadly just soooo dated. Modern locking systems using modern materials and quality inert timber & glass is the way forward.
SS
renewablejohn
Member
- Location
- lancs
Its a standard swedish double rebate door. I will try and find some drawings and PM to you. Unfortunately has to be in oak as part of the listed building consent.
suffolksmallholder
Member
- Location
- Suffolk
Honestly they wouldn't know the difference between oak & iroko even if it landed on their foot! Go for Iroko. Paint it with Sikkens 'light oak' or 'dark oak' Cetol 7 specialist paint. You'll regret using oak. The bl**dy door won't open in the winter & will have a gap you can walk through in the summer.....
In all honesty do you want this? No I say! SS
SilliamWhale
Member
Honestly they wouldn't know the difference between oak & iroko even if it landed on their foot! Go for Iroko. Paint it with Sikkens 'light oak' or 'dark oak' Cetol 7 specialist paint. You'll regret using oak. The bl**dy door won't open in the winter & will have a gap you can walk through in the summer.....
SS
Didnt think Oak was ever much of a joiners timber traditionally dont know why they spec oak
renewablejohn
Member
- Location
- lancs
Its because most old doors that have survived from the 16th and 17th century are made of oak. In the same way we have to have wooden gutters painted with a linseed oil based paint. You have to pick the battles you want to fight with the Listed Building Officer. In my case 3G windows. UFH and Swedish outward opening insulated doors was the priority. Agreeing to using oak was a small compromise although it has proved difficult finding a joiner capable of meeting the specification.
renewablejohn
Member
- Location
- lancs
Found the design its just like the JeTrae Plank door which is a double rebate with wood stuck either side of a metal plate. We would get the Je Trae but they dont do an outward opening version which I find a bit strange for a Danish company.