Newbie looking to get into match ploughing
- Thread starter bassetts
- Start date
Mydexta
Member
- Location
- Dundee/angus
If it's vintage Plougjing that you fancy, then you could do a lot worse than getting an international b275.
As for ploughs, ideally you want a ransomes ts59 with ideally yl183 bodies.
Be prepared to spend lots of £££££ for a decent plough
As for ploughs, ideally you want a ransomes ts59 with ideally yl183 bodies.
Be prepared to spend lots of £££££ for a decent plough
bassetts
Member
Thanks
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
If you want to use a TEF 20 and Ferguson plough I suggest you go in the T20 class.
John 1594
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Not much hope for beginners now im afraid....
time you have bought the "right" tractor, the "right" plough, then "right" mouldboards, then spend another thousand on gadgets like quick entry top links, sliding cross shafts, quick entry leveling boxes, better skims, extra disc for the rear wheel..
Id go out and buy a lottery ticket if your seriously considering getting into it
time you have bought the "right" tractor, the "right" plough, then "right" mouldboards, then spend another thousand on gadgets like quick entry top links, sliding cross shafts, quick entry leveling boxes, better skims, extra disc for the rear wheel..
Id go out and buy a lottery ticket if your seriously considering getting into it
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
The cheap way is the t20 class but it would take a while to get to the top.
I have a question. In the t20 class can you use a plain top link like the one below?
I'm asking because in the t20 class I only see these Ferguson top links.
I have a question. In the t20 class can you use a plain top link like the one below?
I'm asking because in the t20 class I only see these Ferguson top links.
Fergie Ploughman
Member
- Location
- Cheshire, UK
I don't think this was any different when I started as and novice 20 years ago, with the exception of maybe the skimmers! I started with a TEF and Fergie plough, then migrated to a 35 and Ransome. My plough was a crap standard TS54 with those nasty epic boards on, I've tweaked and messed over the years, not spent too much on and it ploughs fine. I've said before on here, you don't need all the gadgets to start; use a standard plough and get use to it first, then mod it if you want...
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
ha ha, that is what they all say when starting off, then they find all the time and effort along with some wasted money, they want something better and have to start over again,
buy the best you can afford and spend wisely
Fergie Ploughman
Member
- Location
- Cheshire, UK
Some classes you can and other make you use the flat one, so basically you need both...
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
Thanks I've never known what top link is supposed to be used. Cheaper to buy a plain adjustable one for £15 as the flat Fergie one is £60!! Might as well buy a quick entry one instead of a flat top link you can't adjust.
John 1594
Member
- Location
- Cambridgeshire
Il probably mange to convey this in entirely the wrong way,and this question goes to everyone....but...
do you not think that a rod has been made for your own backs so to speak
everyone says how hard it is to get.newcomers to the sport, and many get put off at an early stage...all because of the cost of getting up to the kit standard many now run
If ploughing was more about the skill of the person on the seat, using an unmodified, standard setup, rather than how much he has spent on modifying his plough...i think there would be many more newcomers...
and before the crys of "dumbing down" start (yes we know who you are.........)
Would you rather all the ametuers stayed at home and just let the cream carry on competing....then once you hang up your top link, then the sport is dead
everyone has to start somewhere, some improve, some dont, natures selection so to speak
The problem was created by allowing modifications in the first place. In order to compete at the highest level you have to exploit the loopholes provided. As many of the regular ploughmen have gone down this route you can hardly expect them to lower their expectations to suit those who do not have the skill or the knowledge to improve a standard plough within the permitted parameters. If you ignore the cost of time spent the basic mods are performed with a welder and an angle grinder and a few bits of scrap steel. I made my skimmers for a total material cost of about £3 each, my quick entry top link for about £50, including milling work from an engineering firm, and a winding cross shaft for about £30.
Don`t be defeatist and assume that everyone has thrown loads of money at this job because they haven`t but you still have to invest in the best boards for the class and this is where the difficulties start. Good genuine YL boards are now hard to find and make good money and it does not matter how many other mods you apply, if the basics are not right you will have a handicap.
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
- Location
- Cirencester
I, like you was thinking along the same lines. I had an old Fergie Tea 20 so have done that up and will be buying a Fergie plough and will have a bash. The Fergie mob seem very friendly, even my other half is going to have a go, she went out and bought a warn out Tef, which I am currently going through, pistons/liners/bearings etc etc and a coat of paint. Should be good for a laugh. I do like the look of the trailed class but something else to move around.
Re top adjustable links, Some Fergie comps seem to allow them and others don't, you could get a flat one off E-bay fairly cheaply. I have one that my gramp had when the tractor was delivered.
Re top adjustable links, Some Fergie comps seem to allow them and others don't, you could get a flat one off E-bay fairly cheaply. I have one that my gramp had when the tractor was delivered.
There is a big misconception about 'added extras'. At the end of the day there is simply no substitute for having the right skills to be able to plough.
Forget about a massive list of extras - just get on and plough till the basics are well and truly lodged in your head. There is a massive amount of information to assimilate and believe you me it takes some getting your head round.
Learn the basics until the big question 'what if' starts to rear its head. Then it's time to modify.
If you start with masses of extras you will only confuse yourself
Learn to plough middle work and how to make the plough run straight
Learn how to go straight for your opening
Learn to finish
Then you can start with the fancy stuff
Forget about a massive list of extras - just get on and plough till the basics are well and truly lodged in your head. There is a massive amount of information to assimilate and believe you me it takes some getting your head round.
Learn the basics until the big question 'what if' starts to rear its head. Then it's time to modify.
If you start with masses of extras you will only confuse yourself
Learn to plough middle work and how to make the plough run straight
Learn how to go straight for your opening
Learn to finish
Then you can start with the fancy stuff
My world style plough is more or less home made. the only expensive parts were the bodies at £500, if I remember correctly. Its fitted with all the required Hyd controls and all that came from scrapyards, for around £150.
The tractor was an ex scraper thing dying on its wheels! Rebuilt and painted it stands me in at about £1200. Its a Leyland, so I am investigating fitting Marshal wet brakes, as they are not fitted they are not in the cost, but they came for £240, inc vat.
My avatar is the outfit, its competitive and tidy, and cost no where nr the £1000 `s of pounds quoted. Even the 7.5 ton truck used to carry it about only cost £ 750!
My advice to the OP avoid the fergy class unless you want to end up buying two ploughs and tractors, its a dead end. Buy the best you can get, and the plough condition is much more important than the tractor, providing tractor can move and lift the plough, if hyd!
The tractor was an ex scraper thing dying on its wheels! Rebuilt and painted it stands me in at about £1200. Its a Leyland, so I am investigating fitting Marshal wet brakes, as they are not fitted they are not in the cost, but they came for £240, inc vat.
My avatar is the outfit, its competitive and tidy, and cost no where nr the £1000 `s of pounds quoted. Even the 7.5 ton truck used to carry it about only cost £ 750!
My advice to the OP avoid the fergy class unless you want to end up buying two ploughs and tractors, its a dead end. Buy the best you can get, and the plough condition is much more important than the tractor, providing tractor can move and lift the plough, if hyd!
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
for example, how does a sliding cross shaft, make you a better ploughman, no it doesn't,, it only makes it easier to adjust, a standard plough will move just the same,
bog standard plough will do the same job,
bog standard plough will do the same job,
Boohoo
Member
- Location
- Newtownabbey
A narrow frame isn't even essential. What is essential though is having everything free to move, which is where a lot of people go wrong