Osr Autumn management

[Zippy768]

So have managed to establish a decent (ish) osr. First time for about 4 years.

What is the current thoughts on Autumn treatment.
Had no pre-em just volunteers removed.
Combine swaths a little thinner than the rest (only 17ft header), in betweens looking strong.

Agron is starting to talk pgr. Is that needed? Plenty of mayweed and usual suspects around. Can I leave all that to astrokerb later on, grassweeds will need doing any way. Or is belkar popular. What is the price difference between kerb and astrokerb?

It's not wall to wall crop.
Might try and get a pic later

 

[Gong Farmer]

IMO opinion autumn PGRs are never worthwhile but I bow to your agronomist's better knowledge. If you do, leave a tramline untreated?

Worth the extra investment in AstroKerb though, but obviously not yet.

 

[Chae1]

Fuselage max

 

[ollie989898]

Show us the crop and we can argue over whether a PGR is needed.

Weed species present will determine which route you take. None of it is cheap whatever you do.

 

[Zippy768]

Fuselage max

Ive never heard of that. Fungicide or herbicide?

 

[Zippy768]

Show us the crop and we can argue over whether a PGR is needed.

Weed species present will determine which route you take. None of it is cheap whatever you do.

Will try and get a pic for u somewhen.

Question on price, was whether a belkar now for blw, then kerb later for grasses.
Or just Astro the whole lot?

 

[T Hectares]

Will try and get a pic for u somewhen.

Question on price, was whether a belkar now for blw, then kerb later for grasses.
Or just Astro the whole lot?

Totally depends on what BLW’s are present??

 

[Chae1]

Ive never heard of that. Fungicide or herbicide?

Herbicide.

I put on a product called Architect on OSR. Its a fungicide and pgr.

 

[marshbarn]

Ive never heard of that. Fungicide or herbicide?

Fusilade max is a volunteer herbicide, if youve already done a voluntear spray then a BLW one is needed

 

[Gong Farmer]

Show us the crop and we can argue over whether a PGR is needed.

Weed species present will determine which route you take. None of it is cheap whatever you do.

Pic won't make a difference, if the crop is big now it's too late to get any PGR effect. If small you have to assume it's going to get big in order to justify treatment. In my experience, now matter how big the crop is even a mild winter will shorten it back down.

 

[Brisel]

PGR is rarely justified in the autumn. If you have triffid sized plants in September, then September is the time to do it. Any smaller plants will be adversely affected by a PGR now. Review it in March - it is better to have a big canopy going into winter. The frost will soon bring it into line.

 

[ollie989898]

I didn't want to upset the handcart but I could have told you that the bulk of farmers on TFF would be against putting on any kind of PGR on OSR in the autumn. I've had experienced agronomists counsel me that it was counter-intuitive trying to clout your OSR at this time of year, when you really want it to put it's feet down and overwinter nicely and that is a logic I sort of subscribed to, particularly since it can have to run the gauntlet the weather and pigeons for several months before it really gets going again in spring.

I'm way out of it now to be outlining what weed control options to select though I have seen astrokerb used to good effect several times. I think everyone recognises that taking out volunteer cereals before they get too big for their boots is a good thing but by the sounds of it that is already sorted.

I do think growers can no longer afford the traditional big spend in the autumn on OSR. It's just far too risky these days to be throwing fungicide and lots of residual chemistry about on a crop that might be decimated by spring.

 

[TheEarlOfMoray]

Mine is looking good, all it’s had is a volunteer and weed spray. Agronomist wanted to put on fungicide but thought it a waste of time so didnt

 

[Farmer Fin]

Plan on doing boron +/- molybdenum. Might put some ptz in as well yet to be decided. One field is getting kerb as there is sterile brome in there, the rest have already had volunteers removed and weeds that are there the frost will take out anyway.

 

[Brisel]

Plan on doing boron +/- molybdenum. Might put some ptz in as well yet to be decided. One field is getting kerb as there is sterile brome in there, the rest have already had volunteers removed and weeds that are there the frost will take out anyway.

I know that osr is a user of B and Mo but is it showing symptoms of the deficiency of either or have you tissue tested it? Just curious.

 

[nxy]

I know that osr is a user of B and Mo but is it showing symptoms of the deficiency of either or have you tissue tested it? Just curious.

The recommended practise for us on lighter soils is 200g/ha B in the autumn and 500g B and 50g M in the spring. For me the important bit is the B. Every time we go through we bung in 150 to 200 g Of B, mostly in the autumn because its possible we are not going to spray anything at all in the spring. Never sure about the M bit and it often doesn't happen because of the lack of a spring pass and doesn't seem to affect the crop.

 

[Farmer Fin]

I know that osr is a user of B and Mo but is it showing symptoms of the deficiency of either or have you tissue tested it? Just curious.

Neither. I know what you are getting at. As @nxy says it’s the advice around here for boron in autumn and spring. The Mo is more interesting as we have not done it before and looks expensive compared to straight B. Although it appears important for N uptake. I guess the question is at what level of deficiency do you get poor performance before you actually can see it visually. The correct thing is to do some sampling to see, which I will do next week, even if it’s is too late this year it will change things for the future.

 

[Brisel]

I did some tissue testing on high pH soil and molybdenum always came back as high, which is expected for alkaline soils and the opposite is true for neutral or acid soils. Boron was always low there.

 

[Brisel]

The recommended practise for us on lighter soils is 200g/ha B in the autumn and 500g B and 50g M in the spring. For me the important bit is the B. Every time we go through we bung in 150 to 200 g Of B, mostly in the autumn because its possible we are not going to spray anything at all in the spring. Never sure about the M bit and it often doesn't happen because of the lack of a spring pass and doesn't seem to affect the crop.

Boron is not particularly mobile in the plant, so a little and often approach is a good strategy

 

[nxy]

I did some tissue testing on high pH soil and molybdenum always came back as high, which is expected for alkaline soils and the opposite is true for neutral or acid soils. Boron was always low there.

Our soil is acid sandy soil and after liming, any soil analysis always comes back with almost no boron detectable or at best just a trace. We use it on rape beans and sunflowers and are possibly for the first time this year all cereals. Where we have not used it in beans you can see to the inch where you didn't treat and the yield halves with very few pods setting without boron. This is a known problem here much like Manganese being blocked in the same way on cereals. It doesn't help that our rainfall is around 900 mm a year and seems to wash out our nutrients. Little and often is the way with everything.