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I’d recommend DAP rather than TSP. I was told it’s a better”form” of P.
Usually better priced than TSP, if you consider you have a half rate of AN equivalent at same time. Like @JohnAC says use on mowing and grazing. Keep putting you muck back on too. It’ll take awhile to raise but at least they will be some available every spring.
Yes it will be dearer but usually works out cheaper with the N valued at half AN price.
We last bought DAP at just over £500 when AN was £330. Knock £165 off and TSP had to be £360 or cheaper to be better value. I was quoted £380 so DAP was cheaper!
How often do you buy DAP & TSP @deleted user 837354? Every time I’ve bought in last 5 years the DAP has been a better buy!Probably because they had DAP in stock they wanted to get rid of.....
Both work in very different ways depending on what you want to achieveHow often do you buy DAP & TSP @deleted user 837354? Every time I’ve bought in last 5 years the DAP has been a better buy!
Maybe I just buy AN wrong!
its on the back of the sheetThe next time you pay for soil samples, you tell Yara/Lancrop you want the report version where the corrective levels in kg/ha are stated (only the lab opinion based on RB209 mind) as you have paid for the sample- there is no reason you should be tied to the advice of the person that took them. All the soil samples I ever did had the recommended levels printed on that report. The farmer was then at liberty to read it and buy fertiliser or similar from myself or anyone else he liked.
This applies to all of you who are being charged for soil sampling.
In this situation I would simply use TSP as it's convenient and easy to use in bagged form for small areas. If we were talking about a more sizeable area there is P grow and fibrophos etc to consider. Sewage on a stock farm I'd be wary of and even more so when it came to chicken muck due to the botulism risk.
Triple Super Phosphate (TSP) is the obvious answer, there will be some Phosphates in your muck, but probably not enough.
TSP is 0. 46. 0
It is to some degree. My soils are in 7.8 to 8.2 ph range. Phosphate is drilled in the seed row to get the biggest response. I still will spread and incorporate into the top4 inches extra to boost the ppm levels to around 25 High sulphur levels help a bit too
Soluble phosphate does react with calcium to form a pretty inert calcium phosphate. Reducing calcium phosphate requires acids or a lot of sulphur. @Warnesworth might be better at explaining this, or @Two Tone
@Warnesworth can explain it a lot better than me. It is very much part of what is the Albrecht system.Soluble phosphate does react with calcium to form a pretty inert calcium phosphate. Reducing calcium phosphate requires acids or a lot of sulphur. @Warnesworth might be better at explaining this, or @Two Tone
What are the alternatives? Whatever you can get cheaply. Top of my list is sewage cake, then chicken litter, FYM, Fibrophos/Kalfos. DAP can be priced well vs TSP but consider when you’ll be applying it - can you justify the nitrogen dose and will you get the best of it? MAP is inherently acidic, so good on high pH soils but its cost and scarcity makes it prohibitive when compared to other sources.