Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
Would anybody happen to know what size thread this is? This particular winding handle and thread is found on Ransomes Robins and the later TS59 front furrow width winding handle.
Ransomes plough
- Thread starter Petetheploughman
- Start date
carpenter1
Member
- Location
- devon
I might know, I think I wrote it down, I had to have a new bit made that the thread goes in to.
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
That is 1" 29 degrees acme
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
Thank you John. Do you know where I could get a nut for this thread from?
carpenter1
Member
- Location
- devon
Yep that is what I had wrote down
To be honest, i think the only place would be westlake, or a scrap plough. You could have one made, but then you would be better off to have the matching pair done. From memory, its not a true acme thread, those have flat crest and are square, the Ransomes is rounded. I think it would be a very expensive thread, needing to be screwcut in a lathe, a time consuming process.
manofsteel
New Member
Try Moore International .co.uk for tapezoidal threaded bar and nuts . Not expensive , either. Best of luck.
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
I have some, but not wanting to sell really, try westlakes
I have the tap and the lathe tool. Intending to make some when I get down to a 4 day week. Need some for trailer plough furrow wheel depth screws. Have the material as well in EN8
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- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
Is that on a number 9 dave
Number 12 John. They are 7/8th. The depth screw is inch. Intend to make some short ones up with bosses, pinned into weld on sleeves.
Not a true imperial equivalent. Also they are high speed which will take too much winding. Whether they would make you the boss is also debatable. Best of luck trying.
- Location
- 200 miles N,NW of New York
I would of thought it would be too corse a thread on the furrow wheel side being a Acme thread, I think on my trailer ploughs original was UNC thread, and I renewed it with metric as I had the taps to make a new barrel, and it's corse enough on furrow wheel, the land wheel main depth in Acme, and I would not change it though
Edit my ploughs are number 9 or number 15
7/8 whit Dave, have made several over the years. If you putting in a sleeve, I think it would be a good idea to fit some form of shear pin, to protect the trip rack and mechanism. its all to easy to smash this when tripping out at the end of the first run of the split.
As a matter of interest, that thread, and most of the plough, is a direct carry over from the Hornsby plough Ransomes continued to make on taking Hornsby over, Most Ransomes stuff, the Motrac, for example had the radiused acme.
Thanks Harry but it would be operating the wrong way for that to work unless you left a void.
Just in passing it would not have been a problem last weekend as the landwheel was just sliding when on the point of releasing.
Dont I know it ! Lorry swam out of Nocton, with caravan floating astern! No problem with leaving the void though is there, and if you fitted a key, you could still wind the wheel down so you could travel on the headland till you could make a repair. The stop cant touch the beam if the nut is still in position on the end of the thread, but to get that bit of extra hight, people take it off, forget once and bang! Its even mentioned in David Bonnings High Cut dvd.
If you had a ‘spot the locknut’ competition then you would struggle to find a lead screw that had one on. Probably easier to find broken racks!
All easily done in a similar manner to walking into extended axles!
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
What size are the bolts in font and behind the legs? The leg bolts are 3/4" what's the width of the bolts that hold the cast brackets and the supporting cross beams?
Also what is the length of the 3/4 bolts at the very bottom of the leg? Can ordinary hexagonal headed bolts fit instead of the square ones?
Also what is the length of the 3/4 bolts at the very bottom of the leg? Can ordinary hexagonal headed bolts fit instead of the square ones?
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the very bottom bolt is 3/4 countersunk square headed and needs to be about 2 3/4 overall including the head. I usually use UNF for these. The next one up needs to be 3/4 and needs to be 2 3/4 long excluding the head.
The top ones are usually 3 inch.
The ones securing the cast spacers might well be 5/8. 2 1/2 should be long enough.
will measure some tomorrow and let you know.
Petetheploughman
Member
- Location
- The West Country
Thank you David. My main concern was the width of the bolts with the cast spacers, which you have said are 5/8. Do you know where I could acquire some 3/4 countersunk square headed bolts for the bottom of the frog. Would ordinary hexagonal 3/4 bolts with the heads ground down do the job?