Ransomes robin?

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
I'd of thought nylon of the right grade would work
The load is enough to bend the spindle at times!
Going back to your plough, I would go to all the farm sales you can, and see if there is a plough at any of them, if there is buy it if it looks ok, then build a plough from the two. Anything purchased from Peakirk will be in the same state but three times the price!
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
The navy tried nylon for quite a few bearing applications, and its not as good as first hoped.First of all it absorbs water and swells and can then seize the shaft, it wont allow dirt etc to "embed" so anything that gets into the bearing is held against the shaft , to grind it away. You cant support it as the supports have to be clear of the shaft, and the nylon will flow, just like grease, through the gap.In the end, the RN went back to Lignum Vitae a hard greasy wood!
Phosphor Bronze tube is not that expensive, and is easily machined. Firms such as "Metals for you" can provide it in any length/ size you need.
 
Last edited:

Howard150

Member
Location
Yorkshire
i have got some very hard wearing nylon, and held in the housing thought it would not distort, also it would be greased as normal, could bore it out in the lathe, just a thought Harry,

Hi John
We tried nylon bushes in some slurry injector discs 25 years or more ago just about the time they became really popular in suspension bushes.

What happened was they got full of sand which became embedded in the wearing face. This in turn acted as an abrasive and cut the shaft to bits in no time
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
thanks for the advice, i wont bother trying it then

what about oil lite bushes, any good ?
Oilite could be useful but I think they would crumble under the load, another problem would be that they cant be machined or it alters the properties in some way. One thing though you must use one long bush, if two are used, and one moves, unless everything is perfectly true the shaft will be locked.
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
Oilite could be useful but I think they would crumble under the load, another problem would be that they cant be machined or it alters the properties in some way. One thing though you must use one long bush, if two are used, and one moves, unless everything is perfectly true the shaft will be locked.
yes i know it would have to be a 1 piece bush whatever it was,
just looking for some ideas on a cheep good fix, rather than repro ones
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
get some phosphor bronze tube, turn the worn spindles round, bore out the old bushes, make phosphor bronze replacements for the white metal press fit then bore to suit the reclaimed spindles. Kept greased they will see you out, and many others I think. Some I did over ten years ago are still fine.
 

tomlad

Member
Location
nr. preston
My bearing leak grease out , between the bearing tube and the Coulter casting I'd like to see the grease ouz on the spindle it's self . So as to clean out muck
I tried a smear of sealant on assembly didn't work
Any tips gents ?
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
You could degrease everything and then assemble with loctite bearing fit, however that may make changing the bearing should it wear, an interesting experiance!
 
Anyone know about the International Single arm discs? Not the double arm discs. The reason why I ask is because I've got a IH disc that needs taking apart but after seeing this picture I'm a little nervous as there are about SEVEN BEARINGS!
international-ih-single-arm-disc.jpg
 

Pennine Ploughing

Member
Mixed Farmer
Anyone know about the International Single arm discs? Not the double arm discs. The reason why I ask is because I've got a IH disc that needs taking apart but after seeing this picture I'm a little nervous as there are about SEVEN BEARINGS!
View attachment 260872
Peter, they are easy to do,
take the stud out of the top of the hub, then the whole lot should knock out of the hub, can be tight best to hit the disc with a hammer while holding the hub with your spare hand,
then once out, you will see it like a wheel bearing, take cotter pin out, take nut off, and it will come apart,
all the bits are just 2 inner and 2 outer bearing races, an oil seal and washer,
if you have ever done a wheel bearing, then its just the same
 
Peter, they are easy to do,
take the stud out of the top of the hub, then the whole lot should knock out of the hub, can be tight best to hit the disc with a hammer while holding the hub with your spare hand,
then once out, you will see it like a wheel bearing, take cotter pin out, take nut off, and it will come apart,
all the bits are just 2 inner and 2 outer bearing races, an oil seal and washer,
if you have ever done a wheel bearing, then its just the same
Thanks for your help John sounds like a much simpler job than I expected.
 

Ley253

Member
Location
Bath
depends on what your pulling it with, and your method of transport. The Robin is lighter, but poss not quite as strong, but is designed for simple furrow width adjustment.If both sets of boards are genuine, they should both do similar work.The 59 is better value though.
 
I have a Robin and it works fine for me - that said, if I had a choice, I'd go for the TS59.

The Robin looks a nicer plough in the pics though, the boards 'look' better, it has wrap around skims as well. Its difficult to judge without looking at it properly. Either way, you'll still end up chucking money at to make it into the right plough for the job; disk stalk holders will drive you nuts, needs a mod to the depth wheel to make it go low and wide enough, etc.
 

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