Ratio of Roof Lights to Normal Roofing Material

[franklin]

My shed seems a bit dingy. Is there any science to how many sections of a roof are transparent to let the light in, or is it an afterthought? Wouldnt cows be happier if inside was a similar light level to outside, albeit without the pee-poor precipitation?

 

[RWG Contracts]

It's normally 10% roof lights. People are putting more in now but if you put to many in it then becomes to hot inside

 

[David.]

My recent experience of putting 10ft roof lights in to increase natural light has not been without minor problems, and I will put extra 5fts in next time instead.
Not a problem in livestock housing, but would be if dry material was stored. On frosty mornings there is a wet patch on the floor below the centre purlin, from where the condensation runs down the underside of the sheet, hits the foam filler and falls to the floor. A 5ft sheet having no middle purlin, tracks the condensation over the top of the sheet below and it gets away with no drips.
I suppose the answer is to remove the foam fillers, but they are there to hold the sheet firm in the wind.

 

[RWG Contracts]

My recent experience of putting 10ft roof lights in to increase natural light has not been without minor problems, and I will put extra 5fts in next time instead.
Not a problem in livestock housing, but would be if dry material was stored. On frosty mornings there is a wet patch on the floor below the centre purlin, from where the condensation runs down the underside of the sheet, hits the foam filler and falls to the floor. A 5ft sheet having no middle purlin, tracks the condensation over the top of the sheet below and it gets away with no drips.
I suppose the answer is to remove the foam fillers, but they are there to hold the sheet firm in the wind.

If you use two 5' rooflights it solves that problem, condensation tracks over bottom light don't know if that's what you meant or not

 

[franklin]

I am thinking for cattle buildings. I liked the idea of the Highlight shed cladding instead of wood boarding, but reading a bit more into it I dont think it would do the job. Planing a shed for moos that is a) fit for the job but also b) maximum potential for other uses and c) not making it so dear as to have no profit is a bit tricky. Dont really want any condensation dripping onto their beds or heads.

 

[David.]

If you use two 5' rooflights it solves that problem, condensation tracks over bottom light don't know if that's what you meant or not

We put it in as a full sheet, but will just spread more 5's about next time.

 

[Forever Fendt]

I am thinking for cattle buildings. I liked the idea of the Highlight shed cladding instead of wood boarding, but reading a bit more into it I dont think it would do the job. Planing a shed for moos that is a) fit for the job but also b) maximum potential for other uses and c) not making it so dear as to have no profit is a bit tricky. Dont really want any condensation dripping onto their beds or heads.

I always wonder about the corrosion on the highlight type cladding as the galv on the sheet must be compromised when the sheet is punched

 

[jondear]

I always wonder about the corrosion on the highlight type cladding as the galv on the sheet must be compromised when the sheet is punched

Going to clad half of 60ft shed end with highlight soon as want too slow weather but still let in light .I will soon know I suppose . Yorkshire boarding I feel would make it dark.

 

[franklin]

I think it looks properly snazzy. But like I said, I'm still at the "hmmm" stage - do I put a feed passage down the middle, or do we essentially leave both sides open and feed down the sides which would let a lot more light in. Tricky. We are in the "dry" east but it seldom feels very dry at all. Ventilation, draughts, light levels, airflow. You can soon go crazy on costs and make it so expensive and custom built that you are deeply comitted to something but have also guarenteed a life of poverty in paying for it.

 

[Pan mixer]

I think it looks properly snazzy. But like I said, I'm still at the "hmmm" stage - do I put a feed passage down the middle, or do we essentially leave both sides open and feed down the sides which would let a lot more light in. Tricky. We are in the "dry" east but it seldom feels very dry at all. Ventilation, draughts, light levels, airflow. You can soon go crazy on costs and make it so expensive and custom built that you are deeply comitted to something but have also guarenteed a life of poverty in paying for it.

Lots of shed taken up by a central feed passage, that was the conclusion that I came to, also a 100 foot wide shed (to optimise feed barrier and floor space - deep litter) is a massive frame cost - I like to shutter walls between posts and this is fine with 10 inch girders but not so easy on bigger sections.

I am in the even drier East than you but have opted for a 4 foot cantilever over the open barrier, I worry about draughts on that side though and intend (construction long running and going on between other jobs) to use Crittall grain wall sections to be the back of the 'feed bunker' to try and stop this as, you and I know, it may be dry but it can be damned cold and draughty over here.

I have 4 x 10 foot roof lights per bay by the way in a 40 foot wide shed

 

[franklin]

Feed passage would be concrete anyway, and if down the sides would have a cantilever over it - so is essentially roofed anyway. And one down the middle is less concrete than one down each side.

100ft wide single span shed has to be most useful in general though isnt it? 100 x 120 with central passage.My thought was that as an arable farmer I dont really work in the mud or rain, so if the passage was open then that sets me up for getting wet in winter, or drizzle in the manger full of food. Still, as an arable farmer I know very little about cattle sheds. Site is not exposed.

Perhaps increasing the height of the building will make it feel lighter anyway? I think weather conditions around me are more likely to be foggy than anything else, so fairly high humidity. Failing that, a day like today with frost leading to condenstation inside and then when it warms up it rains *inside* the shed. Dont want that.

Could always have a transparent roof!

 

[Forever Fendt]

I am thinking for cattle buildings. I liked the idea of the Highlight shed cladding instead of wood boarding, but reading a bit more into it I dont think it would do the job. Planing a shed for moos that is a) fit for the job but also b) maximum potential for other uses and c) not making it so dear as to have no profit is a bit tricky. Dont really want any condensation dripping onto their beds or heads.

what is the intended use of the shed dairy/sucklers/finishing and how are you planning feeding them

 

[EasySteelBuildings.Co.Uk]

We add 2x Skylight per bay on request if that helps?

 

[franklin]

what is the intended use of the shed dairy/sucklers/finishing and how are you planning feeding them

Would be finishing, but needs to be flexible to be used by other cattle if needed. Would be fed hay, haylage, and a mix of grains from the farm & things we can backload ie wheat distillers / oat pellets etc.

 

[Pan mixer]

Feed passage would be concrete anyway, and if down the sides would have a cantilever over it - so is essentially roofed anyway. And one down the middle is less concrete than one down each side.

100ft wide single span shed has to be most useful in general though isnt it? 100 x 120 with central passage.My thought was that as an arable farmer I dont really work in the mud or rain, so if the passage was open then that sets me up for getting wet in winter, or drizzle in the manger full of food. Still, as an arable farmer I know very little about cattle sheds. Site is not exposed.

Perhaps increasing the height of the building will make it feel lighter anyway? I think weather conditions around me are more likely to be foggy than anything else, so fairly high humidity. Failing that, a day like today with frost leading to condenstation inside and then when it warms up it rains *inside* the shed. Dont want that.

Could always have a transparent roof!

A transparent roof would be a glass house.

If a central passage you need a huge open ridge to make the ventilation great which would cut down on condensation anyhow say a 3 foot gap?

You may get a little damp, don't arable farmers have coats?

Too high is worse as the ventilation won't work at all well - depends a bit on whether cattle are in there all summer.

 

[franklin]

You may get a little damp, don't arable farmers have coats?

Careful - the idea of being outside in December but not at a shoot / a farm walk with hog roast provided / a nice beach somewhere not here is still sinking in!

 

[Pan mixer]

Careful - the idea of being outside in December but not at a shoot / a farm walk with hog roast provided / a nice beach somewhere not here is still sinking in!

The real test is in the escape slots in the corners - I build one in to every corner that I can so that I can walk between pens without climbing over gates (opening them is just so yesterday) and for my safety in the event of trouble. They have to be 11 inches wide, no more, no less, to work correctly.

would you fit? with a coat? (I have to choose my coat carefully and sometimes it is more like an ameoba going through the gap than a Homo sapiens)

 

[RobFZS]

@jimmer has a sh!t load on his shed roof

 

[Paul E]

Put plenty in.
Next time I put a shed up, its going to be all 5' sheets to cut out condensation. And, in alternate rows of sheets, all solid, then alternate solid and lights in the next row.
If you're in Lincolshire you don't need any wall cladding on 1 side. So put feed passage down 1 side with a cantilever over.

 

[jimmer]

too many clear sheets on our shed , too bloody hot in summer