Rear landslide depth relative to lower moldboard edge

Discussion in 'Competition Ploughing' started by MrNoo, Nov 14, 2017 at 7:54 PM.

  1. MrNoo

    MrNoo Member

    Location:
    Cirencester
    Hi, is there any specific rules of thumb re the lower edge of the rear landslide relative to the lower edge of the moldboard? Only I am doing away with a rolling landslide and have a much longer one to take it's place however it is meant for another style of plough of the same make. I cannot get (as far as I am aware) a long landslide for the plough I am making up ( A fergie Lea plough) I had hoped the DB long landslide may have fitted but Westlakes say no. However I have a nice landslide to bolt on but to me it seems to protrude a fair way below the lowest part of the moldboard, so I will either weld up and re-drill the frog or just plasma a strip off the bottom edge.
    I would have thought it should be ever so slightly lower than the lowest part of the moldboard but am not 100% certain, hence the question here, anyone have any pointers?
     
  2. I'm no expert but I think that the bottom of the landslide should be level with the back of the landslide side of the share.
     
    MrNoo likes this.
  3. dont think you should be worrying about the mouldboard for a starting point,
    I would be more worrying about the depth relationship between the point at the front underside to the rear of the landslide also on the underside, this would be my starting point,
    I would think the suck to ground on a Ferguson plough, will have alot to do with how the draft will work,
    someone that knows more will be better at working it out than me, but I would think to get the draft to work right, and also make the landslide do the job its meant to do, then I would say the rear of the landslide at the back, should be 1/2" shallower than the point is digging out, this will mean the draft will work with out influences from the landslide rubbing on the furrow bottom, also if the landslide is to high, there might not be enough soil to support it being near the top,

    I would set the above first, then worry about the board after that is done
     
    MrNoo likes this.
  4. MrNoo

    MrNoo Member

    Location:
    Cirencester
    Thanks, makes perfect sense, will have a good look tomorrow with that in mind and see how we go!!!
     
    Pennine Ploughing likes this.
  5. Howard150

    Howard150 Member

    Location:
    Yorkshire
    Why not take the front one off and lay it over it? That should give you a starting point if the holes line up.
    Next thing to do is set the two landside on the plough and set the plough down with a piece of 22mm board under each landside so that the points don't foul the floor. This will give you an idea of where they both should be.
    Can't do a lot more without ploughing
    Hope it is a Lea and not an L Base :D
     
    MrNoo likes this.
  6. Fergie Ploughman

    Location:
    Cheshire, UK
    Why would you want to remove the rolling landslide on a Fergie plough ? (I understand the reason it's a "rolling" landslide was to reduce the drag force, thus making the tractor/plough combination more efficient)
     
    Pennine Ploughing likes this.
  7. MrNoo

    MrNoo Member

    Location:
    Cirencester
    Several reasons, it is an 8" Lea plough and the end of the rolling landslide shaft will run too tight to the back of the board and actually protrude slightly below it. Also they muck up the furrow wall and I am fed up of cleaning greasing/oiling the rolling landslide after every match, they are a pain in the backside!!!!
     
  8. Fergie Ploughman

    Location:
    Cheshire, UK
    Ok, fair enough. Years ago when I started match ploughing I used a Fergie GP plough, I also took the rolling landslide/landslide off and replaced it with custom one an bit taller. To be honest it made F-all difference, so its no back to standard awaiting the day I dig the TE20 out and have a dabble in the Fergie class!
     
  9. MrNoo

    MrNoo Member

    Location:
    Cirencester
    Yes, I currently use a GP plough and it goes very well (again without a rolling landslide, just standard rear long landslide) but I am after producing a certain style of furrow that pleases my eye and feel that the Lea board maybe the one but need to find out, am unsure re 8" furrows, may space it out to 9" (which works very well with a GP plough) but will find out soon enough!
    You'd have some fun in the Fergie Class, I do, it's very competitive and think standards are improving!
     
    Fergie Ploughman likes this.
  10. ploughman61

    ploughman61 Member

    Would this alteration make it a non genuine Fergie plough, their for not allowed in Fergie qualifiers, you know how fussy some of the Fergie boys are ?
     
  11. MrNoo

    MrNoo Member

    Location:
    Cirencester
    Maybe, not managed to qualify yet but have plenty of ploughs that would be fine sat in the shed if needed. Not sure as I think we are based on SOP rules and they also made an "economy" plough for export which had no rolling landslide, just a longer traditional landslide. They also made the Lea plough at 8" furrow width, so putting an 1" spacer plate to take it to 9" is ok as you could buy a spacer kit to take the 8" furrow to a 10" furrow. So with a bit of time and effort plenty of combinations are possible. We noted that Richard Ingram looked to be using a 9" plough at Sherwood last year and hence it was a path we went down, I have made up 3 9" ploughs so far, one for myself and the rest for others.
     

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