Sheep slatted shed design

jackstor

Member
Location
Carlisle
We're thinking about slatting a shed for sheep, approximately 100ft x 28ft. Plan is to make a 4ft deep tank, two rows of columns going the length of the tank with concrete beams sitting on the columns along the length and so the fibreglass supports go across the width of the tank in 3 spans, just over 9ft long.
Put a sump hole at opposite ends of the tank and roof water can be diverted easily into the tank.

Is they're anything different we should/shouldn't be doing? If we put water in the tank first, will we be able to easily suck the slurry out or will it need mixing?

All opinions/ideas much appreciated (y)
 

MJT

Member
We're thinking about slatting a shed for sheep, approximately 100ft x 28ft. Plan is to make a 4ft deep tank, two rows of columns going the length of the tank with concrete beams sitting on the columns along the length and so the fibreglass supports go across the width of the tank in 3 spans, just over 9ft long.
Put a sump hole at opposite ends of the tank and roof water can be diverted easily into the tank.

Is they're anything different we should/shouldn't be doing? If we put water in the tank first, will we be able to easily suck the slurry out or will it need mixing?

All opinions/ideas much appreciated (y)

With our slatted shed we went away from the idea of solid concrete tank, instead going for earth floor, liquid drains away and left with a compost like cake, no smell of ammonia etc and only clean out every 5/6 years with mini digger as it breaks down so well.
 
We're thinking about slatting a shed for sheep, approximately 100ft x 28ft. Plan is to make a 4ft deep tank, two rows of columns going the length of the tank with concrete beams sitting on the columns along the length and so the fibreglass supports go across the width of the tank in 3 spans, just over 9ft long.
Put a sump hole at opposite ends of the tank and roof water can be diverted easily into the tank.

Is they're anything different we should/shouldn't be doing? If we put water in the tank first, will we be able to easily suck the slurry out or will it need mixing?

All opinions/ideas much appreciated (y)
I don’t know if you are matey with the fella we both know that has a lot of sheep on slats. Might be worth finding out of him I know one of my mates had asked and he told him to come over and have a look. We had a shed on mesh frames but the wood got heavy to lift out with the water in amongst it and shyt plus the mesh doesn’t last long. I always had the idea that the floor should slope either one way or both ways to a sump at each end like you are describing so water could be used to flush it out clean underneath
 

jackstor

Member
Location
Carlisle
I don’t know if you are matey with the fella we both know that has a lot of sheep on slats. Might be worth finding out of him I know one of my mates had asked and he told him to come over and have a look. We had a shed on mesh frames but the wood got heavy to lift out with the water in amongst it and shyt plus the mesh doesn’t last long. I always had the idea that the floor should slope either one way or both ways to a sump at each end like you are describing so water could be used to flush it out clean underneath
I will ask him next time I see him (y)
 

Tyronesheep

Member
Livestock Farmer
Definitely will need mixing. Iv 2 sheds done here and personally think it takes the second year to break the pills down in the tank. Mine are all 8ft deep which get filled with pig slurry during the winter and If I don’t leave the pump in mixing while sucking out the pills would be floating after 2 mins after finishing mixing. Even with mixing while filling the tanker that last 6-12” will be pure sheep sh.t pills. It can’t be beat for growing grass in my eyes though so something for you to think about. adding a couple of ft to the walls won’t add that much extra cost. Never heard anyone say there tanks to deep but plenty wish they had went deeper.
 

jackstor

Member
Location
Carlisle
Definitely will need mixing. Iv 2 sheds done here and personally think it takes the second year to break the pills down in the tank. Mine are all 8ft deep which get filled with pig slurry during the winter and If I don’t leave the pump in mixing while sucking out the pills would be floating after 2 mins after finishing mixing. Even with mixing while filling the tanker that last 6-12” will be pure sheep sh.t pills. It can’t be beat for growing grass in my eyes though so something for you to think about. adding a couple of ft to the walls won’t add that much extra cost. Never heard anyone say there tanks to deep but plenty wish they had went deeper.
We'll have to stick with 4ft deep as we already have a 4ft wall underground.
Guess 4ft will hold a winter's slurry even if we put some water in at the start.
 

jackstor

Member
Location
Carlisle
can you make the tank deep enough so your little kramer can go underneath? No worrying about mixing or trying to keep the tank water tight then.
Can't really make it any deeper. if we had too, just have to lift the slats out and drop a skidsteer in and clean out with digger but hope it wouldn't come to that :unsure:
 

Tyronesheep

Member
Livestock Farmer
Yes will hold it no problem. Depends how many for how long I suppose. Over the years I noticed if I didn’t fill the tanks till about 7’ I got a draft coming up from under the slats in one of the sheds so really Iv only 1ft storage.
 

Uggman

Member
Livestock Farmer
We'll have to stick with 4ft deep as we already have a 4ft wall underground.
Guess 4ft will hold a winter's slurry even if we put some water in at the start.
I think cammy,'s mate the Viking has done a shed similar to what your talking about a he puts brewer's yeast or waste in it and doesn't mix it to much think that tank is only 2ft deep cleans it every other year but try watching it on YouTube the sheepgame
 

Blue.

Member
Livestock Farmer
can you make the tank deep enough so your little kramer can go underneath? No worrying about mixing or trying to keep the tank water tight then.
Dunbia Preston have a slatted shed that they go under with a bobcat,it’s a great shed for sheep.

Another way is auto scrapers under the slats.

I thought of making a complete pen out of galv box that you pick up and move with the loadall,just sit down on the concrete and move to clean up.
 

ringi

Member
With our slatted shed we went away from the idea of solid concrete tank, instead going for earth floor, liquid drains away and left with a compost like cake, no smell of ammonia etc and only clean out every 5/6 years with mini digger as it breaks down so well.

How much of the earth floor is converted into very nice soil by the worms?
 

ringi

Member
By not adding water its likely the resulting FYM will be much more helpful to the soil then producing a slurry. I expect if using water as part of the clearing process would be best to add the water just before spreading, but will clearly practically depends on what pumps/mixers are to hand.
 
With our slatted shed we went away from the idea of solid concrete tank, instead going for earth floor, liquid drains away and left with a compost like cake, no smell of ammonia etc and only clean out every 5/6 years with mini digger as it breaks down so well.
Was planning on doing the same thing this backend . Are your slats just on metal frames ?
 
Ah I see so you still have a pit but it doesn’t have the floor on it . I’ve got plastic slats that I’m going to mount on metal frames over an earth floor.
Will just try one bay and see how it goes first !
 

MJT

Member
Ah I see so you still have a pit but it doesn’t have the floor on it . I’ve got plastic slats that I’m going to mount on metal frames over an earth floor.
Will just try one bay and see how it goes first !
83CE9330-5F4A-4EB6-BB0D-B5EEACA7AB5A.jpeg
 

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