Sliding barn door security.

[Gettin by]

Think i remember seeing a similar thread and sure the topic has been covered before but....

Any simple security solutions for a pair of sliding doors on a barn.
Doors are 12foot by 8 foot each. Steel sliding rail on steel framed barn.

Security needs to be enough to dissuade the lazy/ opportunist thief but not draw attention or look like a challenge ie ‘what’s in there then’ to the same unwanted visitors.

I realise that nothing is impregnable but obvious steps are worthwhile.

Doors are in construction over the next few wet days! Steel frame with galvanised 20 gauge flat sheet covering.

Door within a door or guarded simple exterior latch holding more complex interior ones ?

Any ideas please.
Thanks.

 

[Lazy Sod]

A personnel door either in one of the sliding doors, or in a separate position to enter and leave by, locking on the outside with a stout padlock and a good deadlock. The sliding doors fastening together on the inside. A strong bolt on each sliding door post sliding into the door frames.

An added advantage is that this way, nobody could accidentally lock you in.

 

[dannewhouse]

lock the doors on the inside if possible so they cant be slid open then put a bit of a lock on outside so it doesn't look "belt and braces" security but on the inside it has a fare bit more security? our ouside jus has a bar which goes into the floor and latches onto the other door with a lock. ideally a personnel door so you can get in to unlock the "big" doors

 

[Nearly]

Everything!

 

[MrNoo]

You need to secure the bottom edge of the doors, seen them pull the bottom out and get in that way. I think if they want it bad enough they'll get in regardless, through the roof or just cut a hole in the side.

 

[Paul E]

An added advantage is that this way, nobody could accidentally lock you in.

Yeah "accidentally".
Where have we heard that before??

 

[Bobthebuilder]

can you weld a plate on frame with a hole in then fit 1 of these to the door, so when you close the door the catch slips through a hole in the plate and flick the catch over, padlock if you want to for extra security http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-Anti...507824?hash=item1a1cb0f130:g:LgwAAOSwyWZZUiYs then padlock doors together from outside

 

[David.]

Try to ensure sheets cannot be taken off with impact driver etc or battery drill off rivet heads.

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

on each door pillar fix a good strong bolt, made out of 20mm bar, weld a short bit across the end to make a T
weld a plate on the inside of the door with a slot in it, mount this at about 80cm from the ground,
slide door shut, insert bolt into slot, turn through 90 degrees and lock with pad lock,
this will stop door going either way, the the T will stop the door being pulled out at the bottom,
do the same on both doors

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

can you weld a plate on frame with a hole in then fit 1 of these to the door, so when you close the door the catch slips through a hole in the plate and flick the catch over, padlock if you want to for extra security http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-X-Anti...507824?hash=item1a1cb0f130:g:LgwAAOSwyWZZUiYs then padlock doors together from outside

that will only stop an honest man

 

[Lazy Sod]

If the door sheets are not fixed with rivets or tec screws, which can both be battery drilled off, how else are they going to be attached?

 

[Nearly]

If the door sheets are not fixed with rivets or tec screws, which can both be battery drilled off, how else are they going to be attached?

Squirty foam or glue in the corrugations slows them down.

 

[Cowcalf]

If the door sheets are not fixed with rivets or tec screws, which can both be battery drilled off, how else are they going to be attached?

nuts and bolts hammered when tightened and flat bar welded across the back of frame to slow down entry

 

[Lazy Sod]

Bolt heads can be ground off.

 

[David.]

Buy 2mm sheet and weld it on, in the scheme of things it is only about £15/sheet dearer than thin foil and will rattle less. Tec the middle.

 

[Cowcalf]

Bolt heads can be ground off.

if you put enough they will not bother, you will never stop them, theres always a Stilh saw and disc for the determind thieves, but few and far between

 

[Happy hillbily]

There was an article in practical farm ideas years ago, a guy wanted security for some sliding doors and also wanted to stop them rattling in the wind, so welded an eye bolt to the inside of the door, then had a curved bar on a pivot, so when you moved the lever the curved bar went through the eyebolt, and pulled the door right to the stanchion, but also stopped the door sliding open, maybe @farmideas might remember which issue it was. Personél door is easy, just mount a mortice lock behind the sliding bolt, so when locked it stops the sliding bolt sliding.

 

[TripleSix]

The big sliding doors at work had on the inside, a long threaded gate hinge that hooked into the door and sat through a weld on gate eye that had a slot cut in it, this was welded to the door post and had a big home made wing nut.

When the door was shut you hooked it together and tightened the nut which pulled the door against the door post.

Simple but effective.

 

[Pennine Ploughing]

There was an article in practical farm ideas years ago, a guy wanted security for some sliding doors and also wanted to stop them rattling in the wind, so welded an eye bolt to the inside of the door, then had a curved bar on a pivot, so when you moved the lever the curved bar went through the eyebolt, and pulled the door right to the stanchion, but also stopped the door sliding open, maybe @farmideas might remember which issue it was. Personél door is easy, just mount a mortice lock behind the sliding bolt, so when locked it stops the sliding bolt sliding.

View attachment 629554

on a sliding door ??

 

[Happy hillbily]

on a sliding door ??

No that would be for a personal door.
Have seen a length of angle iron used as a guide on a sliding door, welded on the inside of the door along the bottom but welded across and up same as like an L, then the guide attached to the stanchion, upside down with both sides of the guide either side of the angle iron, this stops the door being lifted out of the bottom guide and pulled outwards to gain entry. I hope that made sense ?