Sliding doors

[R J]

Couple of doors I've been making over the last couple of weeks ,
Hung them over the weekend

 

[fenrat]

look great, a lot cheaper than a roller shutter for what youre doing. How much did they cost and where did you get the rollers etc?

 

[R J]

look great, a lot cheaper than a roller shutter for what youre doing. How much did they cost and where did you get the rollers etc?

Yes a roller shutter was going to be expensive as the doorway is 6.5m wide .
The steel and tin cost about £580 and the roller for kit about £500 ,
We got the sliding door kit from a company called "barrier components"

 

[ewald]

They will last longer than a shutter, don’t rattle on a windy day and are less likely to be hit by a forklift!
I don’t understand why shutters have become so popular lately

 

[zyklon]

Depends on the shed and it’s purpose. I have a shed and made a 17ftx11ft sliding door for it a few weeks ago. Good job but I should have priced a roller door. Wasn’t the easiest to flip and weld.

 

[Lincsman]

Couple of doors I've been making over the last couple of weeks ,
Hung them over the weekend

What does it run in/on at the bottom, mine run on an angle iron concreted in , but have to be careful not to scrape up with a bucket over them.

 

[harrow]

Couple of doors I've been making over the last couple of weeks ,
Hung them over the weekend

Very smart, well done.

 

[R J]

What does it run in/on at the bottom, mine run on an angle iron concreted in , but have to be careful not to scrape up with a bucket over them.

That's the next job to set a bottom rail for them to run on , we wont need to run a bucket over it luckily as it's only a storage shed .

 

[zyklon]

Why do you need a bottom rail? Its asking for trouble.

 

[Lincsman]

Why do you need a bottom rail? Its asking for trouble.

To stop them swinging in and out on the top rail, the buried angle iron works fine as there is no groove for stones to fall in, and only requires a slit in the door base.

 

[zyklon]

We put a strip of angle iron on the inside of the door 3/4ft up from the bottom of the door and a hook type steel plate welded at the girder post so the angle iron on the door slides along to prevent the wind from blowing the door in and out. Avoids anything needed on the ground.

I know two separate doors joining in the middle will be different and could blow were they join but soon sort that out.

Any pics of your design?

 

[Happy hillbily]

Any reason for using so much steel in the doors ? All the sliding doors here have the outer square, then only where the sheets join, and used smaller box too, could have made the door with half the steel.
These have been in for nearly 40 years without problem, but the bottoms will need refurbishment soon, as the muck has rotted out the bottoms.

 

[zyklon]

We use 2” box for our doors in cattle sheds if cattle will be pushing against it. 4ft Stokbord on the bottom to protect the sheets.

If no cattle and door is just for passage or machinery shed, we use 1”1/2 box.

Only need to add extra lengths on top if it is a very wide door and 3 rolllers are needed.

 

[R J]

Any reason for using so much steel in the doors ? All the sliding doors here have the outer square, then only where the sheets join, and used smaller box too, could have made the door with half the steel.
These have been in for nearly 40 years without problem, but the bottoms will need refurbishment soon, as the muck has rotted out the bottoms.

No reason really for the amount steel , just like to make them fairly strong , was all 50mm box , horizontal at 600mm spaces for tin sheet size , each door is 4m high and 3.25 m wide .
Maybe a bit over engineered

 

[Richard98]

they look well I much prefer sliding doors to roller shutters, though there is a place for roller shutters where there isn't much room beside the doorway. we've got some new sliding doors to put on the workshop, the frames are ready but have sat there 2 years waiting

 

[Happy hillbily]

Made these swinging doors for a shed in the yard a few years ago. Wanted something better on the eye than riveted galv sheets, so cladded them with some spare 6x1 Yorkshire boarding slats I had laying about. The frame was made out of 2"x1" box, flat bar for the diagonal brace, and some angle iron to hold the slats in place. The wood was slid along the door and only the last one is screwed to the door frame. You would be surprised how much the wood swells and contracts depending on the weather. On a wet winter's day, the wood is fairly tightly packed together, but in summer there can be enough gap for you to get your hand through between the slats.