Splitting Ford 5610

[ford4000]

The clutch went while hedgecutting, so we set about splitting it today, talk about not wanting to come apart! Found out once it did come that the teeth on this which sits in the flywheel and connects to the pto shaft had worn badly and damaged the teeth on the shaft a bit too

 

[ford4000]

The clutch went while hedgecutting, so we set about splitting it today, talk about not wanting to come apart! Found out once it did come that the teeth on this which sits in the flywheel and connects to the pto shaft had worn badly and damaged the teeth on the shaft a bit too

Oops posted This twice

 

[forblue]

A problem that shows up quite a lot, remove the centre hub, this holds flywheel on as well so either remove it [heavy] or keep it pushed against crank while someone removes hub then put couple of bolts back in to hold flywheel ,then re-join eng to housing put 4 bolts back then you have to drain rear end oil because you need to split gearbox from rear axle, shaft comes out to rear so it needs a gap of about 3ft cab needs supporting at front, gearbox lid off if floor change [ if its a ruibik cube change and you have never disconnected one before you will be bald trying to reconnect it] aux fuel tank if fitted drain and remove,dual power if fitted pipes need disconnecting,poss remove r/h front cab mounting support,disconnect hyd pipe if got eng hyd pump to unload valve, any electrics,4/w/d, dual power,tank sensor,block up under draw-bar and jack under r/axle,chock rear wheels, don't leave handbrake on [as you are moving cab] anything that will stop you splitting it, lift up front of cab but only enough to clear gearbox and wheel everything away from r/axle dual power will need the two seals replacing after rejoining with new shaft but this alone you really need someone to do if you have never done one before, not a quick job.......

 

[ford4000]

A problem that shows up quite a lot, remove the centre hub, this holds flywheel on as well so either remove it [heavy] or keep it pushed against crank while someone removes hub then put couple of bolts back in to hold flywheel ,then re-join eng to housing put 4 bolts back then you have to drain rear end oil because you need to split gearbox from rear axle, shaft comes out to rear so it needs a gap of about 3ft cab needs supporting at front, gearbox lid off if floor change [ if its a ruibik cube change and you have never disconnected one before you will be bald trying to reconnect it] aux fuel tank if fitted drain and remove,dual power if fitted pipes need disconnecting,poss remove r/h front cab mounting support,disconnect hyd pipe if got eng hyd pump to unload valve, any electrics,4/w/d, dual power,tank sensor,block up under draw-bar and jack under r/axle,chock rear wheels, don't leave handbrake on [as you are moving cab] anything that will stop you splitting it, lift up front of cab but only enough to clear gearbox and wheel everything away from r/axle dual power will need the two seals replacing after rejoining with new shaft but this alone you really need someone to do if you have never done one before, not a quick job.......

It doesn't sound easy!!!!

 

[yellowbelly]

Pretty much what @forblue said ^^^^^............but before you join up what you've got split now, don't forget to put the new hub on. If you're going to replace the ipto shaft grind off the damaged splines before pushing it back together (damaged splines don't go back into the new hub too well).

Sometimes, if the ipto splines are not too badly damaged, you can get away without replacing it - just clean them up a bit and make sure the hub slides on it OK before you bolt it back onto the flywheel.

Depends how much of a front-line tractor it is - the proper job is to replace both but we've a 8210 that was a 'bit sloppy' last time it had a clutch and it only had a new hub.

 

[Cormac Duggan]

Could do the socket trick either , get someone to machine the shaft to a hex, then weld in a socket to the hub to take the hex end. Done to heaps of tractors over the years and have not given bother, as them hubs are dear of new holland!

 

[essexpete]

Could do the socket trick either , get someone to machine the shaft to a hex, then weld in a socket to the hub to take the hex end. Done to heaps of tractors over the years and have not given bother, as them hubs are dear of new holland!

How easy is that to centre up?

 

[Mursal]

Ah you'd get it lined up, just grind a small start/chamfer to give it a start.

 

[Mursal]

Sorry, I take it you mean 'centre up' while pushing back together?

 

[Vincent]

Here is one with the 3/4 " cut on the shaft to save replacing the shaft.

 

[ford4000]

Here is one with the 3/4 " cut on the shaft to save replacing the shaft.

I love the ingenuity!!
Picking up a new hub to try this morning, I've cleaned the pto shaft splines up so cross fingers!

 

[ford4000]

Could do the socket trick either , get someone to machine the shaft to a hex, then weld in a socket to the hub to take the hex end. Done to heaps of tractors over the years and have not given bother, as them hubs are dear of new holland!

Hub is £200 from new holland, clutch plate is £180!!

 

[essexpete]

Sorry, I take it you mean 'centre up' while pushing back together?

I really meant everything set up to run true as it were.